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VHB is fine, you can get a thicker mil to fully seat into the depths of the block (probably minimal after coats of paint and vinyl & laminate) and will have no adhesion issues on the vinyl. I think the wet out on the fhb is 48hrs. If you're concerned about it use a bit VHB and an adhesive like...

My biggest thing is get it cleaned. Anything on the surface such as dirt, bugs, tar will bump beneath the vinyl. Don't use any detergents with wax or ammonia. You have to pay special attention to the areas that you normally don't, like door jambs, inside the gas cover, the wheel well flange...

Acrylic works great for this, we've done both however. For glass we send a CAD file to a local glass company that cuts it for us then we print the pieces. For acrylic we reverse print and router it. You can flame the edges and it looks like glass (we just use a small propane torch like used for...

Worst case scenario here... Finish taking off the vinyl and wet sand the area with a 1500 grit. Then buff it. I used this method to restore some old porcelain Gas station signs to original after being painted over with an enamel. They were giant signs that took lot of tedious sanding by hand...

Direct would be the best option for cost, but you may want to consider printing on clear vinyl and then mounting it to your reflective vinyl or sign blank. We do this for many applications.

I know it seems you have bigger problems now, but depending on the version of firmware you're at... You should be able to RIP your file as you normally, as it's loaded on the machine, click jobs, select the file you are wanting to print, then select print mode, in there you will see additional...

Sorry for the late response here, I'm still navigating how this stuff all works and found a red bell at the top of my tool bar. That means something I guess... Anyway, those are input values that I use for a cmyk colorspace. If you are designing in rgb (which is mostly for webspace) you will...

Any time I'm doing a rigid substrate with white I shoot for a .085 head height max. I usually wipe down any really static charged material with an alcohol just before printing. It won't help with the overspray, but that text seems to be quite small, if you can spare the time I would use the...

We usually start a few inch leading edge by hand and run them through a cold laminator if it's a basic color change and nothing has to line up. If you have borders or elements that need to be placed in a specific position we use a light table to make the placement and weights to hold it in place...

I've found that the following will work best for a rich black. C - 30 M - 30 Y - 40 K - 100

In the past, I have just laminated whatever material I want to print on with a clear printable vinyl. You could do the process before or after printing. Print to clear and mount or mount then print.

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Depending on how many you are doing we use a variety of techniques. You can buy or rent a two man auger, which works great for clay and hard soil and can be used for a mid-large size project. We also use a Hydrovac company, but this would most likely be for a larger volume project. If you're...

I was just going to recommend the FB550 or 750. Great machines and should work well for what you need, but you're probably looking at around 10 sheets an hour on a production speed. Global Garage has them all the time and they're not too bad on price.

Letters that large probably wouldn't need a glaze on the edges if you're using a primer, paint and sanding between, as my guess is the viewing distance is too great to matter. Especially, if you use a quality PVC without a ton of air pockets. Gino is right, these are monsters that will have...

I've used the Banjo Sign Frame and had success, but you'll need a hardware set for mounting. Most sign suppliers have them.

I shoot for 48 hrs (on the core) before laminating, when I can, but you have to do what you have to do sometimes. For anything less try to break them down. If you're not laminating then it doesn't matter.

We use Seal Pro 64's and can still get silvering if we don't use some amount of heat. It just depends on the over-laminate product, temp and humidity. As CanuckSigns said the "wet out" will finish in a couple of days. It just depends on the project and what your customer expects. How hot does...

Winsol Polyclean might do it, but from what I've seen it can take the sheen out of the signs/graphics, however, a small amount of overspray should buff right off. I've never used it on a fleet laminate, but we use it on street signs and such. With any cleaner you should test a small...

We CNC items like this very frequently with our Gerber Sabre. If you're using this indoors as depicted, you could cut the hanger out of the same stock and put a 90 degree bend on the end of it for attaching to the wall. Probably want to go with at least .100 for the hanger, but again that...