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Use the png and then double click on that layer. There will be options for outer and inner glow. Play around with those settings and you'll get close enough.

White and silver both coagulate and separate much quicker than the color inks. The printer has a circulation system that moves the ink once in a while to prevent it from happening but it still has issues. Basically if you slack on cleaning the cap tops and don't change maintenance parts out on...

Solvent based white has never lived up to the hype. The UV printers do much much better when it comes to opaqueness. Also, I never recommend white or silver to any of my customers and the few who have insisted came back to me within a year to change to CMYKx2. That's not to say no one has been...

It could be a bad damper or air leak in the cyan. You should change the dampers after a year anyway. Has it always printed like this or just recently? If you bought it used, I would change the dampers and cap top and see how that does. It does look similar to a PF issue but the fact that the...

You aren't the first and you won't be the last! Most newer models have a valve that prevents this from happening but the 1324 was made just before they started doing that.

If you didn't plug the waste tubes before doing the head soak it created a siphon and pulled all the ink out of the system.

Loosen the fixing screws and wiggle it a little. It should pop down into place.

Change the dampers. Ink drop out is almost always an air leak or failing damper.

You need to run the Scale Adjustment. It should be in the adjustment menu. It runs automatically so you just have to wait for it to finish. If you have a manual, it's on page 101 if you need to look at the instructions. It's pretty straight forward though. Edit: I just saw the second post that...

The temperature it's referring to is in the print head not the platen heaters. It tells the printer if the environment is suitable for printing. If it says it's too hot, it's usually a short in the head circuit. If it says it's too cold, it's usually a bad connection in the head. I would double...

Usually when a head fuse blows, it's a short in the head cables but since those are new it's could be damage to the terminals either on the head or the slider board. Head temperature too low means either the room is too cold or the head is not connected properly so it's not getting a reading...

A different profile for each media is the correct way to do things. That being said, I would say at least more than half of shops only use one or two canned profiles. When you have never used a proper color correction workflow, it's easy to ignore because you don't have anything to compare it...

You are correct that the multi core processors don't help with RIP speed but the clock speed does. The higher the better. That being said, if your RIP and design PC are the same computer, the extra cores do help when you are multitasking. Take a look at the resource monitor while ripping a file...

Try out what ExpertWideformat said. Make sure ink is flowing through those heads. If it is and they still don't print, the fuses I am talking about are not your standard glass tubes. They are very small ceramic fuses.

Test the head fuses. On that model I believe they are on the slider boards that moves back and forth on the head carriage. It could be on the main board though. It's been a while.

Any PC can run a plotter with no problem. You might go for a more traditional desktop though as you would be able to upgrade more easily.

I knew it!

Printer pricing has plummeted since the release of the XC540. Also, the XC540 had a max resolution of 1440 x 1440 whereas the TruVis only has 900x900. So objectively, if you are printing on the highest resolution all the time, the TruVis is a step backwards. That being said, technically the head...

They stopped making parts for that machine many years ago. Your best bet is finding used parts on Ebay or someone on Signs101 might have a machine they are selling parts from.

Been there!