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It looks like head strike damage to me with a possible electrical issue. Take a look at the bottom of your head and see if there is any damage.

They probably lacquered it or used some sort of UV blocker. UV inks only last up to 3 years before major fading without some sort of protection.

Comparability mode can help with software issues but if you check the "Run as Admin" box below those options, it will open as admin all the time. If you don't, the program doesn't recognize the CutContour spot color.

I would start by changing the cap top and dampers. They are periodic maintenance items that wear out over time. Once that's all in there, run a cleaning cycle and watch the waste tubes to make sure ink actually flows during the cycle. If not, the pump might be clogged or need to be replaced...

Did you change the dampers along with the new head? So you see any air bubbles in the ink lines? A good way to test it out is to swap the two magenta damper positions and see if the issue moves or stays the same. That isolates where the issue might be happening.

Post a nozzle check for us to look at. When was the last time you changed dampers and cap tops?

Gotcha. I would look around to see if anyone is selling used parts for that machine on Ebay. Otherwise, the only way I know how to get that part is the $595 route unfortunately.

It's because the Epsons use DHCP and just ask your router for an IP address and it gives them one. The Roland is just old!

SP300s are one of the easiest machines to work on. Take a shot at it yourself!

I agree with Gino. Clean the encoder and make sure the sensor is clean and straddling the encoder without touching. Also, what does the test print look like?

That part only comes from Mutoh as an assembly with a bunch of other parts for $595. I can tell you though that, unless there is physical damage, that part shouldn't go bad really. You might just need a new cap top. What's the issue with the machine?

$360 from Mimaki and last I checked it was on back order. See if someone is selling a version on Ebay or something. You can upgrade to the latest version from there.

I sell heads into solvent and dye sub machines and this is about right. The same head with solvent inks will last 3 to 5 years where the dye sub head will fail in a year to 18 months.

You would want to use the cleaning solution your ink supplier recommends. Get a bottle and then just use a syringe to flush the tubes out.

This sounds about right!

Yes running VersaWorks in admin mode. I don't even install the USB driver. I just install VersaWorks, add the printer, and go.

I would install the latest driver from Mimaki's website. The CDs tend to be out of date and glitchy. Also install Rasterlink the same way. The CDs that come with the printer are really bad.

I've never seen true unlimited chips on a Mimaki that didn't have some sort of chip writer built in. Usually you have to push a button or send a command from a piece of software to reset them. That's not to say they don't exist but I have yet to encounter them. I don't sell that kind of system...

You change the name in the "Printer Name" box but you can only name the printer if there is a printer selected in the "Available Printers" box.

When you add the printer in Rasterlink, the window pops up and you select the machine model from the list, the color setup, and the communication. Then there is an, "Available Printers" box that you select the printer from and it should show the machine serial number. Under the, "Available...