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You don't need to bother with Windows drivers for these printers. Just make sure the Mimaki USB driver is installed, set the printers up in the RIP and just make sure to name them differently in Rasterlink.

It will run fine on Windows 10. Just make sure you run it in Administrator mode as the cut function doesn't work unless you do for some reason.

Interesting. Does the platen heater and pre-heater heat up?

As soon as most manufacturer techs hear 3rd party ink they will hone in on that and never let go. It's most likely a company policy in their defense. I would make sure your machine is level and try another cleaning. Also, check your cartridges to make sure they have ink in them. If everything...

My guess is your machine is running dye sub inks and someone cut the heater wires to prevent accidental heating.

I think Jim Hancock might do these types of repairs as well.

Welcome! Good to have an Epson tech around. I don't see as many of them here in the forums and I don't have any experience with them, although I work on Epson based machines all the time. Just be aware if you want sell parts etc. on Signs101 you have to get a merchant membership. It's worth the...

When you change the dampers the ink will recede back to the cartridge. Did you do an ink fill or some hard cleanings after installing? Take the fuses out of the board to test them. Sometimes you will get a bad reading when they are installed for whatever reason. The fact that you aren't getting...

The encoder disc for the RJ900 and VJ1304 are the same so you should be good there. You might clean it with alcohol to be sure there is no grease or dust build up on it. Air dust the sensor for that one too!

I know it sounds stupid but, did you take the protective liner off the encoder strip before installing it? If you did or used a generic one that didn't have the protective liner, I would start thinking about the encoder sensor. You can air dust it to get rid of all the dust build up and that...

It almost looks like a material issues when the ink gets more saturated. Have you tried other materials? Does this same material print fine on your 1204?

Ok that makes sense. I don't work a lot with dye sub. The nozzle check is looking like there is some deflection which is usually partially clogged nozzles. You could try doing a nozzle soak in cleaning solution to see if that clears it up any. As THLII said, it does look like cross contamination...

No problem it's what we do! Motors rarely go bad. It's almost always a physical jam or the encoder disc and/or sensor is going bad.

How does the nozzle check look? I'm seeing a bunch of over spray which is usually a sign of a failing head.

What does your nozzle check look like? Did you run the head alignments after installing the head?

In your profile under, "Personal Details" you can change your custom title to whatever you want!

It's been a while since have done this but I'm pretty sure you just hold the shift key while selecting the other panel. That should select both and they will show up together in the layout.

The PF Current error is the same type of error except for the print feed motor instead of the CR motor. Make sure the paper isn't at the end of the roll and still glued to the core! Then just check for anything that may stop the printer from moving the material forward. If everything looks good...

Power the machine on while holding the up, right, and down keys. Once it boots up, scroll down through the menu and look for the Parameter menu. Enter into that menu and then scroll down to Update and hit enter. Then scroll down until you see a parameter called, "CHARGE FLG" and change the value...

Try Dave Mee - 866-335-1822. He or one of his associates should be able to help you out.