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I find only thin cast material will curl up and jam when loading it through. All I do is lift the lever, manually load it until I can pull it taut/straight, close the level.. tell it to load, and it'll do it's scans and rewind it back to the beginning. Not that big of a deal... Our current...

Look into Big Squeegee Manual Laminating Tools I'd get one of them.. Then save up until you can Spend 4-5k and get a machine that will last you many years.

Tell them they waive all Warranty, and when the customer comes back with bubbles in 7 days they will be the ones who will be repaying to have the work re-done, and it'll be even more expensive because you're going to tack on removal fees. Odds are they'll wait. Or tell them you'll re-decal...

I was also told it's more of an issue on 680 due to how it's made - You'll notice when you peel it off, it completely seperates from the glue and leaves not just glue, but some sort of "Foil" behind. It traps air in more than regular vinyl...so it causes the issue more. We were told if you must...

If it looks like pimples, it's likely offgassing paint. General rule from 3M is if a car was painted, and the manufactures paint says it takes 4 days to offgass... you double it. Theres a test you can do - Put a 12" x 12" patch on the car, squeegee it down.. then use the heat gun on high...

Offgassing would look like a bunch of tiny pimples, not a couple large bubbles usually. Have you re-heated everything with a heat gun?

110s are great for small shops. I can print a full roll per 8 hours on good quality... So it's not like it's that slow. It's unatended printing, so it's not bad. Hit print.. go do other stuff, and by the end of the day there's a full roll printed. Throw on another If you need to... Only...

I believe the only difference is the 115 has a cutter on the front .It's not a big difference at all.. but the 115 is replacing the 110, so hp stopped making 110s a couple months back, and once your inventory is gone, it's gone... So most suppliers are into the 115s now.

We usually do plywood and not mdf. Most of the stuff we print on our flatbed is for outdoors.. and we live in Vancouver,BC where it rains 364/365 days a year. So MDF won't last too long outdoors here unless we do many coats of shellac/epoxy, it makes.more sense for us to use plywood. Ive never...

How do you determine the highest point, or do you just guess? I've never printed anything bigger than 24x30 on plywood..the shop in at refuses to print bigger because they used to do 4x 8s and said it caused way too many head strikes. I've manually raised the head a few times on our fb500...

A guy that used to work with me was a painter as a second job. He'd take empty rolls of laminate backing home to use for painting. I thought it was genius, until I had to paint something and tried it .The paper slid eveverywhere.... I spent more time taping it down than I would have saved buying...

Can you post a picture? Easier to diagnose. It could be that your material/laminate just wasn't loaded correctly and it caused it to wrinkle/skew. Could also be not enough pressure... If your 30" works fine, I'd say the laminate probably wasn't loaded correctly though. I'd try it again...

Depending on the type of wall murals your doing, just remember you might need a laminator also. Without knowing exactly what your applications are for, it's hard to say. But I'd definately recommend latex, especially if you have one customer and will only be printing every so often. At a couple...

Yes, it's still an issue. Every ink type/printer has different recommended times... I'd google your ink + offgass time, or look up your printer model. We use eco-solvent also... And we're advised to wait 4-8 hours before laminating. Thats in perfect conditions... if your roll is wound up...

IJ35 is a calendared... you shouldn't use it with a cast overlam. Calendared should be paired with Calendared, and Cast with Cast. Cast stretches, while calendared doesn't...so mixing and matching will make them stretch/curl at different rates and sometimes causes more problems than just using a...

Keep in mind if your board isn't perfectly flat, which is usually never is... You might have problems printing on MDF / particle board. We were promised the world with out fb500... Print directly to plywood. Problem is if there's even a slight warp, the heads will crash... And wood is much...

That's the one, 8914. It also comes as an edge sealer, which is nice. 8918 shouldn't be marketed as clear.. if you look at it you can see a slight yellowish tint from the glue. That's what causes the blurriness. I know the bulletin for perf lists 8918 for graphic protection, so maybe that...

Do you find it cheaper than 3290? Curious what you guys pay for a 48"x50yard roll... As night bright seems to be more expensive according to their website price.

I don't recommend 3290. We've done quite a bit with 7930, and while I think the material sucks... It works pretty good. You can also use who/DG, but it's kind of overkill for a non traffic sign. I've heard nikkalite works good with latex... But never tried it. We print a lot of stuff on 3290...

Optically clear looks way better. You can get away with 8518... But the difference really is night and day. Most of the people who still use 8518 haven't used optically clear before, so they don't realize / know the difference. 8518 is cheaper... So if your customers don't complain, you could...