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no problem. i've got tons of little mods on my printer. my new endeavor is to put a konica/minolta style automatic head cleaning system on the printer. turn one knob and you are immediately running a custody wash while keeping the ink in the lines and dampers still hooked up. as far as the...

hell yes. extreme props man! that looks complicated. i built a uv coat/casting machine out of wood many years back. and i'm still using it today. in fact i built an 8' metal brake out of wood and a piano hinge for .030 aluminum used it a week ago. but this is way more awesome!!!

definitely this is stuff that you will pick up on. this kind of stuff will happen here and there and after you understand the physics of the machine, it just won't be rational to wait for a guy to come do something that's probably easier than doing the dishes. also, in my experience, techs...

ink starvation is a cause of either insufficient vacuum below the print head or insufficient ink supply above the print head. first thing you do is determine what color is dropping out. swap ink lines with that color location with a different adjacent print head. you will be running the...

that is textbook ink starvation. i'm about to cast/coat a bunch of prints. if someone doesn't help you solve it in the next hours i'll help you get rid of it. it's and easy issue to isolate and solve.

i've always wondered how much abuse these dampers can take. if you look inside, the damper has a plastic ring that takes the pressure then a black rubber seal beyond that. you'll notice that when pulling a vacuum on the damper, you will see the clear polyester part cave in. it's heat welded...

here are some pics of the syringes i use. the one with the straight tip is for pulling ink down the lines. the one with the valve (valve optional, use it to release or cut off vacuum) is for after for damper is screwed on. it has a adapter tip set in the end. if you don't have a spare...

all that you are dealing with is not terribly foreign to a printer owner. probably at each point a small amount of experience or piece of diagnostic doo-hickey is missing. couple of questions. when you put the new damper on. you first pulled a vacuum on the line without the damper, right...

slowly switching my printer over to triangle as each space runs out (i do very little printing. mostly concerned about ink color and formulation. i print on metal and veneer). so far the yellow is awesome. very much a different yellow. has lots of clean pop. the mimaki is almost a gold dye...

i think it's too fun. if you want your clients to be corporate clientele. then you need a logo that emulates "their personality" not your own. look at most corporate branding. it's very monumental and stark.

i'd do a "completed listing" on ebay and see what they've gone for. my personal opinion, i've had two encads (cadjet 3d and a 505). and played around with some vinyljet inks. the problem is your output will never be competitive. if you have $1125, i'd save up a bit more and convert an old...

data problems can be persistent or fade as with the head warming up or cooling down. possibly static build up on boards might calm down after being used for a while. did you do the damper swap in order to see if the issue follows the cyan dampers to another head? things that can cause too...

if the cyan is still not working... after doing the damper switches if the issue stays at the cyan head. you then do a data ribbon swap. but first get back to me to assure me of what ink set you are running so i can correctly instruct you to which positions on the slider board are safely...

chemistry vs. experience i don't doubt the capping station is a different plastic than the head adapter. you can tell it's probably a polyethylene from just looking at it. BUT as for xylene, it is known as one of the plastic destroyers. keep all these household chemicals away from plastics...

i don't yet know what plastics are inside of a print head. i'll probably cut a dead one up soon and find out. but the holder for the wiper is made of the same material as the head adapter. not sure about the capping station. it looks like some kind of cheap molded (not injection) plastic...

couple other hints. after pulling the ink all the way purging the air from the line. quickly put the damper on the line. set the same syringe at the bottom of the damper and pull a vacuum on it (careful not to stress the thin polyester membrane). tilt the damper back (top end downward) as...

never get xylene near your printer. what kind of retarded tech gave you that advice. xylene is the same as xylol. a solvent completely capable of dismantling ABS, and other plastics. the head adapters are what looks like a form of ABS (too brittle for hdpe). take a head adapter and sink it in...

Alert never get xylene near your printer. what kind of retarded tech gave you that advice. xylene is the same as xylol. a solvent completely capable of dismantling ABS, and other plastics. the head adapters are what looks like a form of ABS (too brittle for hdpe). take a head adapter and...

well, i don't know if the motherboards an mimaki's are AT or ATX. if ATX than not discharging the capacitors by several pushes of the front button was the cause. unplugging the back will not discharge any capacitors. also a power supply has capacitors that can stop your heart without being...

the correct procedure is to: turn off the machine on the front. turn off the machine on the back. shut off the switch on the surge protector. tap the front button once, twice, three times if needed. the green light will light until the final amount of latent energy in the printer is...