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it's an actual device, there is a driver to download for it though too. https://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5806221&SRCCODE=3WGOOGLEBASE&cm_mmc_o=mH4CjC7BBTkwCjCV1-CjCE

1. I'm using the UCJV-300-160 with a CMYKLcLmWW setup. I can't compare to any other machines as this is my first wide format printer. I chose this b/c of the cut option since I'm running out of my basement and space is limited. 2. I have a few things outside for testing, one of which is my own...

UV inks tend to be more opaque than solvent inks. I think they are also more opaque than latex, but could be wrong on that. The black at 1200 x 1200 is fairly dark, but if you really want it opaque you can simply print additional layers. I have a client who does plexi silhouettes for consoles...

or wrap over them and use a leather punch tool that is the same size as the rivet and cut the vinyl out perfectly.

how are you connecting to it? I had to get a keyspan usb dongle to hook my 30" panther to my PC. that took a special driver too. TRIPP-LITE keyspan Model: USA-19HS

Looking at mine as well, i think that screw in the front bottom holds that face on, at least it looks like it. I would also ask your vendor if they know anything, sometimes they can be helpful. edit: front bottom on the outside corner, not the front face Also you could try a "pc electronics"...

a kiss of heat before running the roll pro over helps too. also if you are punching out your rivets (on the more particular jobs), I use a leather punch tool, they sell a pack at harbor freight, but like the 2nd or 3rd one in fits perfect for either cutting around the rivet to leave or remove...

I'll do square footage, but I will add a production charge if there is intricate work that will take me time at the cut table.

TRUTH, at least 75% of the people who come to me for wraps only want lettering and a logo.

I think it has more to do with the windows, all my quotes kept asking about the windows. I ended up with Travelers and the coverage for my shop and client vehicles is only $500/yr, (I have no employees and medical through my day job, a single employee will bring this up to $1500/yr).

i bought some from harbor sales once but they seem to be all out as I was looking for some again. I have 1 in my front yard for my business, looks far better than a step stake.

if anything it's more of a liability issue with insurance I would imagine.

I don't think that's how it works. The UV is cured coming off the printer, cured = 100% done. The whole concept of the term cured is there is no more drying or hardening to be done. That is why we can laminate our prints immediately coming off the printer and don't have to wait on gas outs...

well don't tell all those commercial transit busses that. kind of kills the whole full wrap effect on a van if you have to skip the windows.

my day job is Cyber Security and this is absolutely spot on. that is the #1 cause of most "hacks" or compromises.,

and dry, never do laminated perf installs wet unless you want to pop water bubbles for hours.

the pic if the jeep is from 2 days ago. Also its only on the doors below the window line.

Using a mimaki ucjv here. The jeep was done about 2 years ago in my garage at about 60 degrees and a space heater and a heat gun lol. The jeep is about to a tually be stripped and rewrapped with a new custom design. The truck was done a week ago with a wonderful ambient temps of 70-75 degrees.

he probably has a friend just bought a cheap 24" china printer

if you print on calendar, lam with calendar, if you print on cast, lam with cast.... don't mix them, I have printed UV wraps and had them on for 2 years so far without any such peeling. What UV inks are you using? The only time my prints rip like that is if I'm ripping them off without heat.