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since when?

did you post heat to 220 F? that is the correct post heat temperature for Arlon SLX. I just finished a wrap using Arlon SLX but had to use Brightline Optically Clear lam b/c my vendors were out of almost everything else. We will see, but the laminate won't affect the adhesion of the vinyl, only...

i use a steam cleaner to remove old chipped vinyl, friend had a hood wrap that was flat black and was to the point of cracking through the wrap. steamer helped me get it off in under an hour, i was expecting 4+ if i didn't have the steamer.

i was just looking this info up. I"m about to frame and wire my garage so I can have plenty of electric and lighting for wraps and other work and was wondering what lights would be good for overall lighting but with a low profile? I keep thinking how I want to be able to see the bottom section...

where did you get your profile from? you can get some profiles from mimakis website and sometimes you can get profiles from the print medias website.

I've seen something like that but I just print everything at 1200 x 1200 now and charge accordingly. A thicker ink coat will also be stronger against abrasion, and since it's UV it's dry soon as it comes off the printer so it only affects print time a bit.

I have the all in one setup, and I know my setup is way over the top, but AMD Ryzen 9 3950X 16 core, 128GB of Memory and GTX1060 6GB running 4 monitors. (left), the system on right with the other 4 monitors is my other job. I live in my basement lol. edit: i originally built the system myself...

not all UV printers are flatbeds either. you can get rolling UV printers that run like a standard wide format printer too. The smell is relative to your prints. if you are printing a large print at 1200 x 1200 and the saturation colors are rich, it's going to stink. If you are printing 50 count...

so I had the opportunity to do a 2nd reflective print/lam/cut job for the same fire dept. as the last job, so I figured I'd try the smaller marks and made them at .512 (why not .5? b/c on my mimaki i can set the size of the mark it's looking for but it has it's own increment system and it...

the larger the job, the larger it [rasterlink] wants me to make the registration marks. i've had smaller marks and it completely couldn't find them. I had to measure withing 1/16" when aligning the job i did this past weekend and it still started dragging out of alignment. Granted it was working...

also I find I have to set the registration marks larger than the default settings. I don't think I do any registration marks smaller than 0.75 in length and 0.036 in thickness. I have a UCJV300-160 and print/laminate/cut is a pain b/c if I'm not plum level (like both top registration marks are...

I have the same Mimaki unit with the CMYKLcLmWW, and i had an issue similar to this back in the summer. Being it is winter, I doubt it's the same issue, but if nothing else, I can confirm the Mimakis print colors shift a lot if the humidity is up there, especially if pushing a lower resolution...

i happen to like my basement... I renovated it just for my business. of course I also have the garage for auto stuff too.

I'm using a Mimaki UCJV300-160, if i'm printing something at 600x600 and it's a large job it will faintly stink, if I'm printing at 1200 x 1200 i will generally wear a half face respirator so i can stay working. That being said, within a few hours after printing the smell is gone. Of course I...

Not sure which supplier you use, but for me Fellers is useful b/c they have a warehouse within a short drive. https://www.fellers.com/fellers-shopping/cat/white-inkjet-vinyls/sub/low-energy-plastic-inkjet-vinyl

I actually found a video on youtube that helped me setup my crop mark, it was a smaller mimaki but the process was much the same. Before you set your TP marks, watch these two videos. Do the cut origin alignment first if you haven't done so already. The 2nd part isn't directly on the tp adjust...

Does anyone happen to have the template for the 2005 Pierce Arrow XT firetruck?

Had mine about 1.5 years now too. If by chance you are using Flexi and Rasterlink, save yourself the effort and just drop the Rasterlink. I would design in Flexi using pngs but when I would send the work to Rasterlink, the shadows would have a box the size of the original image frame even though...

So, most prints will not last more than 2-3 years without lamination. If you are laminating and still worried about life expectancy, then look at what type of ink you are using (latex, solvent, uv), placement of the stickers if you have a say, (vertical vs horizontal). If you can get UV prints...

I actually ran off Flexi 6 via VM for many years and had to add a serial card to my system at the time to use my dongle. I actually just upgraded to Flexi sub last year when I bought my first wide format printer b/c the VM would crash so often and I'd constantly have to reinstall the USB adapter...