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I use AI on occasion. I do a lot of cannabis labels and strain labels. so the most I use it for is to generate a background for a cannabis strain that will likely only get used once. For me it's been super helpful for getting something quick done, but if someone is looking for a logo or...

I recently had a job I did with spot gloss and the sheets crackled a bit here and I mailed them off to the customer and when he got them they were really stuck together so much that some of the backing paper from the sheet on top stuck to the gloss on the sheet below. It may be a combination of...

I assume you're cutting in the slot between the platen and the heater on the front. Does it advance when you start a print and how much excess are you talking about? I can start mine right at the edge of the platen without any issues and that's not much extra on it.

Doing 2 passes you're going to wear it more since you're doing double the cutting even if the second pass is easier on the blade, you're still doing 2 passes.

As long as your blade is sharp and extended enough they should pop out fine with a single pass. I do these all day on my FC9000 and have never done 2 passes. What degree the the blade that you're using? Should be a 60 deg. and if you are using a 60 then you probably need to extend the blade a...

Yeah same, I don't want to do it unless I absolutely have to. I typically don't do more than 24" in the feed direction for prints. I'm still trying to figure out why I'm having this bunching issue. I emailed Mimaki suggesting they should allow all rollers down in the middle with low pressure on...

I still have yet to find a decent solution to this. This is how I generally handle my files through Onyx. Place said artwork with cutlines into a new file, say 8.5" x 11", step it out to make a sheet of 20up of the label. Save that PDF and then step that out to whatever my order is for, 1000...

It cannot be more than 5 layers with a single pass, anything more than you need to do a 2nd pass. Total would be 5 layers including the CMYK. (BUILD>WHITE>BUILD>WHITE>CMYK) You should look through their multi-layer guide, it'll give you some detail about printing with multiple layers...

Do you have any tips or tricks do you use for pull back printing? Best option I've found is moving my outer rollers in more than normal. Instead of being on the very outermost grit rollers I'm moving them in to the next set. So they're in about 4-5 inches from the edge of the material. Even...

I run Substance 2755 as my standard and I use the 3755 as well. Has always been good to me.

The build layer is 100% of each color. (Cyan 100%, Mag 100%, Yellow 100%, Black 100%.) No clear is involved.

I'd say try some plastic epoxy to piece it back together temporarily until you can get a replacement.

If you want to do raised under the 4 color. Best way would be to make a White ink layer and a Build layer (100% of CMYK) for what you want raised up. Regular ink and white are thicker than the clear and will build up faster. I'm not totally familiar with the 300 but you should be able to do 5...

Thank you for helping me along with this! The only way to go really high with them is really doing 2 passes. 1 Pass will only get you so high and then you either need to do overprints, which will screw with your 4 color layer, or do 2 pass with pull back or by reading the crop marks. So this...

Just did 4 sheets of these 8up labels. Printed 1st pass 600x1200, 4 color and then scanned the cut marks. Reset my scan width and positioned the gloss files (without cut marks) in the same scan offset as the 4 color and then up in the feed .1875" and let it print. The gloss is slightly off but...

I'll have to keep experimenting. I was using Orajet 3164 (4mil) I have some 6mil coming today for stickers that I'm going to try. Guess it's just finding a happy medium and setting customer expectations on this sort really high raised printing. I've had some success just running tests with the...

So as I've been trying lots of things on this and pull back was working ok with the material I was using. The backing material was fairly slippery compared to the Orajet 4mil I was trying which has rougher backer. The orajet material bunched right up in front of the rollers as soon as the middle...

Thanks for the added info. Sounds like I have to experiment more. My Mimaki contact hasn't gotten back to me on help with raised printing yet. Also have tried the 2.5D printing but it hasn't worked, not sure if it's buggy or I'm missing something on it yet since I have yet to find someone who...

Yeah that's what I've been playing with. I think some of these poeple may have gotten stuff that was done on a flatbed. Not actually having it in my hands its hard to tell how "raised" the prints are. I think it's making me question what I'm doing since I have nothing to compare it to.

So I was experimenting this weekend with overprints. Did 2 layer, overprinted 2x, and 3 layer, overprinted 3x, now I see where you can get the height with the clear ink. But you have to compensate the 4 color layer for the overprints though. Unless there is a trick to only having it overprint...