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Do you still have the core holders? I’d guess that would help your problem. Would let the media fall back down more evenly as currently it’s trapped under the weight of the roll.

yeah this guy is not going to pay anywhere near those prices. The 3164 theyre using is about as cheap as you can get from orafol.

Exactly what Bruce said. Your 3164 has ALWAYS been shrinking. Maybe you’ve just been lucky enough that your customers have taken a while to put them on and they’ve already done the majority of their shrinking.

Can’t you just take a look at the ink limits? I’m always a little confused when people fork out $$$$$ for a printer but won’t pay $$$ for a spectrophotometer to get accurate colours whilst saving ink. Did you say you don’t like colour matching? Or did I misread and you don’t like the profiles...

Depending on the ink formulation UV can make prints brittle. Not sure what’s happening here but the only thing I am sure on is that you should be laminating pretty much everything going on a vehicle. Why use cast vinyl then skimp on lam?

I’ll try get the brand but it’s made in Italy and only recently started selling in the UK. So doubt it’ll be anywhere beyond that! it’s got a medium tack carrier sheet and is a 4 second press at 150 degrees C. I’ll try get the brand when I’m back in!

A lot of this depends on the specific media. We just switched from one with a backer that was barely tacky to one that has a medium tack and have noticed so much difference. Firstly we can manage much more intricate print and cut designs without turning weeding into an issue and secondly we...

I’ve always found print and cut a bit unpredictable. I definitely get better results when I print, then read the marks, then cut. Instead of letting the machine print then cut in one go. Though nowadays we just throw 99% of the jobs on the summa so the cutting isn’t an issue lol. So much...

Best bet is to just explain to the customer that the paint they used involves the word “resistant”. It will naturally repel anything you put on there; that’s what it’s designed to do. I’d chat with your boss and probably just credit the customer (if they’ve paid already) with any part(s) of the...

We’re in the UK and get everything next day. have had a couple issues recently with them not looking at page 2 of an order but we’ll just boil that down to human error and not a supply issue lol

Wait till they find out we have a solvent right next to our Colorado!

Our CJV30 has had the same print and cut settings for a number of years. The rollers definitely help. Print HLLLLH Cut HMMMMH if you’re having trouble try slowing it down a touch too. Make sure the blade depth is just enough instead of too heavy also.

Are you sure there’s nothing wrong with the printer? Heads? That looks like you’ve run it on speciality judging by the pass size and I can still see slight banding. I’ve never had banding on specialty on the 1650 or the 1640. Get much better blacks too lol

We make our own profiles but the Colorado LOVES banner material. We tend to run ours on production mode but use the little workaround that still uses the AAC marks. Drops from 60sqm to 52sqm an hour but no banding and the gamut is still alright.

Why move away from onyx instead of upgrade? Worth getting a free trial of a new version and trying to replicate the issue/checking if it persists? Most members here would likely suggest Onyx or Caldera

we’ve always just printed reverse on clear vinyl then backed with white. For the mimaki print and cut, the crop marks were simple so we just threw the white side on a light box drew over them. Worked a treat. For the summa, we just cut a bit white that’s slightly bigger than the artwork but...

We buy in the ones with the pre made groove. As far as materials go they’re very cheap and save loads of time. But if you’re really trying to squeeze every dollar try any woodwork shop nearby. Should be a fairly straightforward job for them.

It’s great to save space. That’s it. Low volume or not I’d still get my jobs out quicker if I didn’t need to stop printing to start cutting. For the OP; I would look at mimaki if you do want a print and cut. Solid machines. Rasterlink isn’t the best rip (works fine, I just hate the visuals)...

We also do weekly maintenance and I tend to run an auto clean with the mini nozzle optimisation before running a roll of material if I like the customer. Also silly but make sure the little AAC unit that reads the marks gets the plate cleaned weekly too. Gathers all sorts of dust and ink and...

So canon released a 4 head model of the 1650. I believe they’re making it a more entry level model to try compete with HP. As far as im aware, the print speeds are about 50% of the 1650, it has slightly smaller ink tanks (guessing the price per ml is a touch higher) and any/all things you’d...