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Put a piece of white tape over the media sensor (middle of the bed behind pinch rollers). Account for being on center by adjusting left/right offsets at the rip. I run a 1604 through Onyx - maybe this helps.

Thanks! I got it to work a lot better by just removing all heat in the user - I'm going to try the double strike since it does have a rather "washed" look about it.

randya has it right. After re-installing the two drivers, re-name your COM port in the device manager to coincide with what is set in your application settings. Be sure to direct the installer to the files on the install disc so it doesn't look to the same directory as the old ones.

Oh, and I profiled it with my X-Rite DTP70

Not double strike, Bi-lateral, 0 wait, 8 pass, scanning data width. It's inconsistent in an odd way. It comes and goes within the same lateral pass. At times the color is solid in the middle and the wave is visible toward the edges, and then 6" into the print it's the opposite, and then not at...

Ran 3648 Optilux ad backed Window Film and it shows banding, but it's inconsistent. PF Adjust is dead on. Heat issue? Better material to use?

In Illustrator is it cmyk mode? If so, what are the values in the gradient? For me, I've had grays turn out bad because of Cyan and Magenta being in there.

Litho Traxx.

I run Banner 4 mode with wave 1 effect. I've also run some jobs in four pass and it saves huge amounts of time, but I was able to get away with it because it was forgiving art. If you build a new profile use 720 res,720 diffusion, and 4 pass setting in the media manager.

Have you tried just making the yellow Pantone Process Yellow (spot)? This worked for me on a Vutek when I was losing color by changing the original art out of RGB.

If you're working with vector art change to cmyk mode and then make it 100% yellow. Are you not able to print from a cmyk .eps file?

I screened a clear-coat flood over petg, acrylic and plexi before printing on a Vutek 200/600 and it worked great. Double strike with high lamps and you'll love the results.

I HIGHLY suggest looking into the HP H45000. Great printer around $60,000. Faster and larger one around $80,000. No doubt the best printer for the money, and better than some that cost a lot more.

I've been running a Mutoh Valujet 1604 for a year now without ANY problems at all, and that's very unexpected out of any machine. Once a week I spend about ten minutes cleaning various components for maintenance, and that's it. It's fastest speed looks o.k., but it's not good for close viewing -...

Cling Solvent static cling. I get mine from Fuji. Apply with water on the window. Works great.

That's right. Picture contour cutting 30 circles all 1" round and 1" apart, and they need to be applied as such. I want to cut, weed and pre-mask so I can apply them all off the same pre-mask sheet at the same time. I do this all the time, but with the Photo-tex whatever I've tried to apply to...

Use the 45s for bleed. Duplicate your images and fill them all the same color. Open your pathfinder tool and click merge icon. You now have the path to name CutContour and snap onto your image perimeter.

Bleed It sounds like you need bleed that extends from the image intersections outward at a 45 degree angle. Offset your paths for bleed, then using the smart guides (command U) add and subtract points from the appropriate images to get the 45s. Hard to explain, but it results in bleed that...

Got it figured out. The pinch roller at the end of the machine (3rd) needs to be not only AT the end (off roller), it needs to be nearly forcefully set against the end when not in use, otherwise it will not read the bounding box properly. Thanks for your interest in helping!

I'm having problems with my cutter. Long story short, it will not plot it's own calibration sheet (which it performs without computer/ software interaction). It loads the sheet, but when it should laser align for plotting it finds no valid epos. It views the first line of the bounding box, then...