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Summer :P I'm in Michigan. Humidity in my shop (garage) ranges between 40% and 80%

I'd imagine if you took it off and left it sitting on its face long enough you'd notice more curling/warping in other areas. I think it gets the edge first just because that's the first part that air can get underneath? Idk I'm guessing there, lol. It won't do that when it's stuck to something...

If there's no difference in ink height (unless I'm misunderstanding your original post) I'm leaning more toward its curing too much. If you take that sticker off and flip it over you might be able to see it better on the back, it kind of embosses the vinyl along with it when overcuring in my...

I run into this on my 300 sometimes. I think it's caused by the UV lamps being set too high, and frying/curling the vinyl. Try lowering the UV % in Setup and experiment with that. You want it high enough to still have a rock solid varnish, but low enough that it doesn't overcure and cause it to...

I am able to run a full print and cut job no problem, but if I try multiple executions, or multiple different jobs queued up, it will stop mid cut on the first job, before starting the second row of sheets. It switches to local and clears the data for the rest of the cut job. If I were to switch...

My electrician buddy has already come by and made sure everything is operating properly, I'm fairly certain any shock is me absorbing a bunch of static from the vinyl rolling backwards so fast (I do it with the cutting arm out) and then shocking the machine when it builds up too much. If I tap...

Seems fine inside, which is discouraging I guess. Not sure if buying a new motor will yield any results or just be a waste of $500

I took the motor out and it doesn't seem to show any resistance but I edited my previous reply to you to include a picture, which shows the black cord bent and slightly cracked. Which could totally be the culprit... I'm probably going to take off the insulation from the bent part and see if...

Don't think it's a faulty ground because it is never constant, only a shock specifically after rewinding 20+ feet backwards thru the machine. and I've tried an outlet tester and everything seems okay. It's never shocked me in any scenario other than rewinding backwards at high speeds for a long...

Good to know I'm not the only one / doesn't seem like an electrical issue. Yeah I've been tapping on the guide rail in the back to release static in the days prior to the motor fully shitting the bed.

It doesn't seem to look out of the ordinary at all - sorry to keep barraging with questions but you think it's the best bet to just replace the motor? Edit: I retract this statement, lol. The black cord was bent up against the back of the chassis (I'm bending it on purpose in the pic so you...

So maybe just bad luck? Any idea if the shock could have caused it? Or if the screen still looking wonky from the shock could be indicative of anything worse?

3-4 weeks ago, I was shocked by my UCJV while rewinding the roll backwards after a long print, to send through the cut portion of the job. I noticed later that the screen looked a bit different (slightly washed out/interlaced looking). I can't remember if I just restarted the printer, or if I...

On OEM, usually a month or two before I have to turn the cut pressure to a ridiculous level like 110g~ for kiss cuts, 250g~ on perf Think I've had the same china blade in the cutting arm for easily the last 6 months, and I haven't changed cut pressure in the last 4 months topping out at 70-80g...

I have the exact opposite experience, with the Chinese blades both lasting longer and being 10-20x cheaper

Sheesh I guess it was 15 blades for $13.99 lol I don't think I've gone through a full pack yet. 15Pcs Replacement Blades for mimaki Cutter Plotter Vinyl 30 Degree 45 Degree 60 Degree Cutting Plotter Blades https://a.co/d/00geekSp

You can stack multiple clear layers (or copies of the same clear layer) and just check the "pull back after print" boxes on each. Then it only prints one color layer, and the series of clear layers. There's probably a less roundabout way of doing it though. I'm using RL6

As far as I'm aware you can't detect marks for printing (at least in RL6 on the 300), just cutting. On single label test prints I've done 9 layers of clear no problem, I'd say at least a mm or so in height above one pass of color ink. It's mainly doing a full row of them or more that it becomes...

You know if there's any way to keep the middle pinch rollers down during pullback printing? Seems to always be out of alignment, or cause bad media buckling.

Have you found any way to keep the rollers down while pull back printing? This is definitely the problem, and Roland machines allow you to enable all rollers for pull back... It's just so dumb to not give us an option? They claim it's so you don't get roller marks in your clear ink... WELL THEN...