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Just cut deep on the perforation, I always have it go through the backing purposely. Have run tens of thousands of labels/stickers on the same blade no problem.

Amazon china blades, I got 3 for $15 and with one pack, they've lasted longer than 3 packs of OEM blades combined.

Are you able to emboss the gloss/matte finish? Whether through laying down thicker ink or just multiple passes? I've heard pullback/multiple passes on the colorado is not super accurate.

Bumping - this is with no head strikes btw. Anybody run into something like this or have any idea on how to get a more consistent clear layer?

That's a bummer but what I figured I guess. A shame they haven't gotten around to adding it. I generally just remote desktop to my printer but yeah it'd be nice to have access to the cleaning functions and such. Then you can set up a camera to see prints, and run everything while on vacation so...

Is there any way around this? Has anybody successfully spoofed firmware or installed UCJV330 firmware on their 300? Remote access seems like a game changer, being able to run through the printer start-up and start a print completely remotely? Has anybody figured something like this out or am I...

I'm having issues on large prints with big areas of clear ink being used. The front of the prints coming out of the machine have a silky smooth gloss layer on top of them, which degrades into major banding. I've read that since it degrades mid-print, that it could be an issue with head...

I'd also benefit greatly from this lol please send that my way. Need to figure out how to change head voltages.

It seems that I can't see a perceptible difference when doing one vs two layers of clear. I'm also noticing only the very beginning of my print it really slops it on there (in a good way) but after the first portion of the print, it has a weird, rougher look to it... Here's an example, first pic...

So just put two clear gloss layers in, make sure both "pull back after print" and then send it through? Trying right now will report back.

Is there any way to add multiple coats of clear ink for embossing? Seeing others in the same space with similar UV printers able to do this. There's got to be a way on mimaki, or is it just a huge oversight/way for them to make you get into the big(ger) leagues with their more expensive models?

I'm not sure what's causing this... Have had this printer almost a year and the last week or two has been hell figuring this out. It seems the vinyl gets caught or something, when I do the "cut" function with this vinyl, the take-up reel can't even pull it down.

I appreciate the insights. I'm inclined to believe it's the static or friction issue, I'll definitely look into all the possibilities you said and look for some teflon strips. Thanks a bunch!!

I may have said in front when I meant behind the print head. Whichever side is toward me and the take-up reel - it doesn't seem to be a skew problem right now, though I will try to check if we're level! It's like it gets stuck on the plastic edge leading town to the take-up reel. I'll see if I...

It may just be the vinyls I use. I get headstrikes that seem caused by the rigidity of the vinyl when it's being rolled out by the rollers, or maybe my take-up reel is having some issues. The vinyl, instead of being immediately pulled taut by the take-up reel, lifts up in front of the printhead...

Yeah, lowering the tension on the take up reel helped at least enough to be able to correct the displacement in rasterlink. Also it seems like maybe Flexi allows for all 3 to be printed at once, but the clear ink density isn't adjustable and it's really tough to tell if it's printing like a 10%...

That's brutal. Oddly enough the print I've had so much trouble with only needs to get pulled back about 6inches. Maybe will try loosening up the take up reel tension.

This video describes the problem but doesn't have a fix. I can print glossy and white in the same job, but I'm looking to do it all in one pass instead of pulling back after printing. If you try to do glossy clear, and white in a single pass, it will just print matte clear instead. For some...

With white ink on bottom as well? I'm finding I still have to retract one or the other (white, or color) or else the clear layer refuses to be glossy. It will print matte unless I retract.

It's pretty fine when printing "simultaneously" but unfortunately, in order to print white and glossy clear in the same job, you need to first print the white underlayer, and then the top color and clear gloss in the "color -> special color". Is there any way to make gloss work with the...