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Maybe it was overkill, but I ran a test print every morning, date-and-time-tagged it, and filed it, for ten years over the course of two UV printers... Although the test print was necessary, filing it was mostly was a waste of time, but was sometimes helpful in tracking if a nozzle or group of...

slightly modified Serpentine -- also, 'Y' is actually the lower-case 'y'

or LegoLand.... visually, #1 is pretty good, though, but could be a little more unified-looking <edit> not sure if the attached would be better or not...

Ok, Fred wins... :) Should have checked more carefully.

looks like Binner squished up a bit

yep, I LOL'd :)

Sounds good, but maybe you might try using 99%, instead, though I'm not really sure that'd make much of a difference... I used nothing but 99% for 10 years or so on coroplast printed on UV printers, without any problems. Only had ink come off (right in the shop) once, but that was a UV light...

hehe... had some graphics to put on a used cube van -- when the van arrived, it looked really nice. Great, I thought, but first things first, I'll just throw the tare/gvw weights on before I start... and good thing, too... applied, squeegeed, and went to peel off the premask and the paint came...

great courses on Sketchup, Blender, lots on PhotoShop, CorelDraw (I've not bothered with Adobe Irritator, but I suppose they're good, too), Python, Typography, Vector graphics, programming of all sorts etc., and a whole slew of general knowledge courses... I started a Lynda subscription a year...

Optima (aka Optic) -- with a couple caveats... the 't' has been given a flat top and the 'i' has borrowed it's tail from the 't'. Now, there may be an obscure version of Optima knocking about with those mods, and if there is, I'd like to know about it... <edit> hehe... I meant Optima, not...

Thanks, tiki.... I really appreciate your help

Need a font name -- thank you, all....

Yikes! The thought of roll-stock plexi just makes me cringe. Worked with some of that stuff once. Just once was enough. Stuff breaks just looking at it. Maybe you're just loosely referring to polycarbonate? In this day and age, I cannot imagine acrylic for anything larger than maybe 2' x 3' face.

Landscape mode would be far better suited to a sign like that.

Blender is an awesome program, but as you say, there's a much, much steeper learning curve. SketchUp is dead easy, relatively speaking, and is plenty capable for 95% of what you'd need to do for signage. Plus, SketchUp actually works in real-life units, whereas Blender works in generic units...

I recommend SketchUp... SketchUp is ubiquitous, and for your customers who don't have a copy of SketchUp to view the 3D file you want to email to them, there is always the free SketchUp viewer. Besides, what would make a 3D prog "intuitive" for signmaking? If you don't like SketchUp, spend a...

With the fountain fill dialog box open, click on one end of the 'ramp', select a colour for that, then click on the other end of the 'ramp' and select your other colour for it.

Is it a complex shape? Maybe its a problem with a couple unjoined nodes. Have you tried the same thing with very simple basic shapes?

For your digital printer, just pick the two PMS colours for your fountain fill... It will be converted to CMYK ink colours when printing Now if you're gonna try and print two spot colours blending into each other with graduated screens, that isn't going to work very well -- you'll get a white...

Did you separate the shapes as noted? So that the contour shape is no longer considered a contour by Corel ? -- i.e. two independent shapes?