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Maybe you need an ALT CODE list like the one I just attached here. Otherwise, when you type, you need to use the insert character function in Flexi.

Flexi 11 will work fine on Windows 10. I couldn't stand Windows 8 and its interface and was happy to update my OS the first chance I got. Depending on your hardware, you shouldn't have a problem migrating.

Guaranteed there's a double contour cut in the layers. Make sure the contour cut line is .25pt and search for another buried in the art.

If it was done by the manufacturer such as Pierce, E-One, etc....they have their own fonts which are proprietary. If so, the best way is to recreate the wording from scratch.

I tried the bidirectional / unidirectional suggestion as per Chris at GRS and got a decent result. Although my 1324 needs a new head, blues, reds, and yellows are printing fine. My black is about 15% out of the printhead. Attached are pics of bidirectional and unidirectional. It seemed to clean...

https://en.maisfontes.com/raisa-script.font Click on the BLUE download button.

https://www.fontsplace.com/argenta-free-font-download.html

Looking for this...?

I print on Oracal 5600RA or 3M IJ680CR without any issues backed by its suggested laminate. I've also printed on 3M 680CR as well, since the market is scarce for the IJ680CR. Cost about the same and it's laminated, so there hasn't been any issues whatsoever. Ask Grimco or NGlantz, and they say...

The Kona, also, should run fine utilizing Flexi as the RIP.

It was actually the first thing I thought of when taking all these different factors and coming to a conclusion. A leaner nation will mean less health issues with cardio, heart, diabetes, etc. Since people, in general, can't stick to rationing themselves, they will now have necessities rationed...

That may your best bet. I still have and use my FC7000-MK2 130. It's a shame that Graphtec still doesn't have parts or fix boards for those models. They work great!

My HP Latex 64 Cutter took a crap 3 weeks ago and grabbed an S-One D160 instead. I hate having to convert files to SVG for Onyx Cutter to work. It is now so much easier to make it a PDF and have GoSumma open for the easy stuff. Also love the WiFi. As for Thrive for printing, found I had to make...

I have the same problem where my black is gone, then comes back. If I print double-strike, it's fine. The nozzles come in and out, but faster than yours. I thought it was the dampers or head and was told it could be a $60 part that goes bad but can be bypassed. I just found out about this last...

Can't find this font for anything, yet I know I've seen (and probably used) it over a dozen times in the past 30 years. Any help, thanks.

Have you ever run dual fans on the print between the heat platen and the take up reel? Don't care for Roland's RIP it is extremely limited, even using FlexiSign RIP.

Is the encoder strip dirty? If it's not routinely cleaned. it will cause problems as what you are showing.

Try here for the "27" https://schoolofracinggraphics.com/ and the name looks like it may be SerpentineDBol https://fontsgeek.com/fonts/Serpentine-D-Bold

You can try soaking a lint-free cloth in cleaner and placing ONLY where the head sits on the capping station for a few hours or overnight[as the solution melts any plastic it come in contact with for long extended periods].

Yeah, unfortunately, it was 3M 680CR Blue 15" punched with the Gerber printing on top of the material, matte lam, and contour cut.