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Also if you must surf the web in risky areas (warez fonts vector art clipart) Use Sandboxie. It will make a boxed in environment that is separate from your OS. Like putting a pet rattlesnake in an aquarium instead of your livingroom.

You will be surprised what will come back once you remove a trojan, but yes in some cases it will edit the registry and corrupt files. Most of the ones that hide system controls will do this.

This is a must have tool for anyone dealing with output for the public (or folks that have no idea what screen resolution is)

I have seen this variant of trojan before. Download and run Spybot S&D http://www.safer-networking.org/en/index.html Download and run AVIRA antivirus. http://www.avira.com/en/solutions/home_home_office.html Both are free, but I paid 20 bucks for the AVIRA to get the premium edition (just does...

Finished product of what? What material are you interested in?

Very Very good idea! (I recommend the IO table and i1 from x-rite...it will allow you to profile rigid substrates) What RIP are you using?

SolarisRoland?

I think Eleven Ten ink has some ink with r1121.

These machines make a good print. they actually have a built in densitometer that does a basic calibration. You can still do a lot worse for output. Ever have a customer complain that the text was too fuzzy? Aqueous printers are great for that up close print quality.

FedEx/Kinkos uses the hell out of these machines for A LOT, so there is a market for the products coming off of it.

Dye is essentially just that. It fades quickly in the sun. UV (in HP aqueous ink terms) has pigment particles that are much more colorfast. These machines are great indoor POP work horses. Ink and media is more $$ than solvent, but the print quality is generally better. HP5500 is also slower...

1. Find a printer that is not model named "albatross" (see The Rime of the Ancient Mariner....or the saying "like I have an albatross around my neck") 2 Buy it and begin printing happily ever after (what was Mutoh thinking..........Albatross.....:ROFLMAO: ) seriously you have an encoder...

I have had this problem for years with gravity fed plotters. My solutions: Pre and post feed slick tables to minimize bowing under the blade holder Reducing speed and adjusting cut settings Positioning and adding a pinch roller floorlams were the worst for me

Buy a printer on the merits of the printer. SA's Flexi is the best Print then Cut interface currently sold.(if you use onyx you need Illustrator to generate the cut path then save it as a spot color and call it CutContour with flexi you just click a button) It is the easiest to use and makes a...

The epson and Photoshop are both fighting for the same resources. Disable the epson utilities (or uninstall them and contact Epson tech support for a workaround)

I wonder what kind of material that they are printing on. Not enough cotrast to tell if there is a pattern in the vinyl or if the vertical lines are digitally generated. If it is smooth vinyl then it is definitely digitally produced. That would mean check the printhead, cable and controller board.

Take a close look at your nozzle check and From the pictue it definetly could be advance banding. I have cured almost all of my banding issues by building all of my own profiles for the Mutoh VJ1604. A lot of it was caused by too much ink too fast.

Ok. So here's the way I would go about this. You have a UV curing printer. You need to maximize the gamut (colors available). Flexi will make a good profile as long as you follow a few steps first. 1. you need a spectrophotometer 2. you need to fully understand how to calibrate the alignments of...

I agree with Randya I never (almost never) tweak a profile...just rebuild it. The two parts that can become disassociated from one another (the calibration/liniarization and the ICC) can cause a major headache if one part is tweaked (the other part breaks) But that all best case. In the field...

what version of Flexi are you using?