Search results

Second that, the biggest change here is that they’re now unlaminated, not that they’re printed UV. The lam helps them stay more rigid and is a bit more forgiving. Always found we’re less likely to get creases too.

Yeah i had a problem uploading a pic for the first time ever the other day. Had to eventually screenshot then crop my photo to get it up and naturally it looked all crappy. pretty sure I’ve uploaded 5MB zip files and stuff before, too.

Yeah I’ve never had a problem before until the last week or so biggest grievance for me is every time I open this up on my phone whenever I go into a thread it asks me if I want to open it in safari or tapatalk app

Try winplot too. Literally just sent to cut. That’s it. Gosign is obviously better due to being able to save media etc but winplot is as simple as it gets.

It’s a mimaki CJV30. apparently the little edge guard meant to protect the media was “making a little noise” while printing.. and then bent up and stabbed the head in the face! Big scratch right down the PH and the actual head casing.

I think anything that could be wrong with the head is currently wrong. Engineer comes Monday!

Always good to get back from holiday.. to this. And all in two days!

We usually try leave at least one full rotation unprinted at the end of every roll/job. Stops any crap touching the print(s) between the printer and the laminator.

It’s asking me if I want to load every page in tapatalk or some nonsense. Might have something to do with it

I remember speed was a big issue for you. Do you get a good enough speed/gamut with that setting? With minimal/no banding?

So pretty much same again? High quality for gloss and quality for matt? I do remember initially the firmware was better for the 1650 than the 1640 so it done *better* calibrations. The 1640 started off where it would only calibrate on reliance mode and “guess” the rest where now it does a sample...

Pretty much any printer smaller than 54” will eventually make you wish you got a printer that’s bigger. much cheaper to start off at 54” or 64” than to buy a 36” and realise everyone is ordering 4’ or 5’ wide banners and your printer is too small. Worth noting that there is still a learning...

True. I was mainly talking about the things that can’t be visually inspected. As far as roll cutters go they’re mostly built like tanks though.

We used orajet 3162 for a bit. Cheap stuff and removable. Pretty sure it’s the same as the 3164 but it’s removable. Not air egress though.

Between graphtec and summa you should be fine either way. With regards to new and used there genuinely isn’t much that can go wrong with the summa’s. For our S2 There’s the head module, main board and then the back and forward motors that have built in encoders. That’s about it lol

So we’ve had a Colorado 1640 for about 2 years and are looking to add the 1650 alongside it. For the most part, most jobs have been run on the high quality setting as it still uses the auto nozzle optimisation and the AAC marks. Needs very little user intervention and I can just wander off and...

Looks like someone’s brothers cousin that has illustrator found the effects panel and ticked them all

No sign making experience? Any graphic or illustrations experience? No research? Not even a “we found this printer but I’d like reviews on it, here’s our budget”? You realise what you’re essentially saying here is that you think our jobs are easy and you want to take some of our work? And...

In the UK we use 440gsm frontlit banner as “standard” which as far as I’m aware is just a different name for your 13oz

That, and if you’re telling customers a banner will last 3-4 years, how are you meant to upsell to a sign?