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Cut too deep, or using the wrong transfer tape. There are three differently tacking transfer tapes available from 3M. (Other vendors will have it as well)
My experience is, that the timing belt and pulleys are the culprit. There mostly is dust and ink mist build up on the pulleys until the belt jumps teeth.
I use a tooth pick or a cut cable tie to remove the buildup on the pulleys and you are good to go for another couple of years.
Summa, if you want to ease your weeding for the next couple of years.
I don't understand people "saving" money on mediocre cutters and then spending their time and nerves on weeding for years and years...
I once had a case, when a customer sent a media back, that "didn't work anymore".
He was...
WBS is right IMHO. If you print for a living, dump it. Especially this model, that is notorious for mainboard failure. (There are posts here on how people try to replace network devices(SMD parts on the PCB) or resolder the boards and be without a working printer for months... really? If you can...
I see those break all the time. (A little less often, when the user is the owner, because I tell them to handle it with care...)
One of my customers built a replacement of stainless steel... a clever build without the need to take it apart.
You could print your white layer in the film setting and also with go back to point zero after printing in the cut setting. Then print your red with the generic vinyl setting. If you do this, it's a good idea to create a rectangle around your design to keep the registration correct. (When Roland...
DI water from the gas station for most parts. You can add some windex, as it adds tensides to enhance the cleaning efficiency. If you add some ammonia spirit(max. 1% in the final solution), it's a absolute supercleaner for water based inks.
I'm not into Mutoh's anymore, but if it uses Epson DX7 or the likes, it could be a internal leak in the head. Then, the only remedy is a head replacement.
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