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If the printer has lots of if prints on it, look at the belt pulleys, as their theeth can get filled up with ink spray and dust, causing the belt to jump teeth. The other place, a knocking sound can come from is the plasic gear on the right side pulley. (It's a inexpensive part, while pulleys or...

As I already wrote: leave it to the pros, if you don't undersand it... The worst places I have been, are the ones where the customers tried to fix it themselves. (Ink all over the heads, flat cables ruined...) then they wonder why I need to replace head/mainboards for some serious money. Best of...

When the heads were replaced, did the tech also replace the dampers of the latest generation? Try a damper fill.(pause enter during startup) What temperature do you have around the printer? I would also replace the filler sensor on a affected channel.(just to test, it's no big deal) I once had...

For a SP-300i, you should be able to get all the parts for another while (as long, as they last), as it is 10-15 years newer than a SP-300(V), where not all parts are available anymore.(available new from Roland, not some obscure refurbishers from China)

For a SP300, I would not give more than 1000. I wouldn't like to sell it, because if certain parts fail, it will be impossible to fix.(with new parts)

Different modes are only selectable, when they have been created and linearized/profiled.

You have to measure the base-emitter voltage of every driver transistor to find out the defective one/s. If you don't know, what this means, ask someone to fix it for you.(otherwise you will kill the board beyond repair...)

Don't waste your time. Replace the head

How was it used? What are the percentages of SMK1 and SMK3. When SMK1 is close to 100%, don't buy it.

A L315 does the CLC with the line sensor. This is not very accurate. ICC creation isn't possible at all. 36X or 5X0 have a more precise spectrometer for CLC and ICC creation. CLC is the HP term for density linearisation and density clipping. The bubble jet printheads are known for changing the...

BN-20 sounds strange, compared to "real" printers. I hate it, since it came to market...(stupid design) But it shouln'd really screech loudly.

How old is the printer? Could be something with the circulation pump.

Ever tried a different brand of media? Cleaning the rubbers of the feed roller might help as well.

was the cutter in heavy use? Then it could be the flat cable going to the toolhead.

Wow, I think I saw a dot on some of the bigger screws. (M3, M4) I have a bag of the small screws in my car. Have to check with a magnifier...

Swap the captops to test. It could also be a deformed nozzle plate on the cyan head.

If the encoder is very old, it can even happen with water...

The rail in a BN-20 runs dry. It has a self lubricating bushing.(could be graphite in the plastic) I have never had problems with big rail. Only once a clicking sound with the front rail.

Summa F cutters should have maintenance every 1000 working hours or every 12 months. Whatever comes first. One important thing is to check and adjust the tension of the 3 timing belts.