Search results

Does anyone know any graphics installers close to Moab, Utah? Need a single 5x10 adhesive graphic done on a sign and the closest I can find is Lehi, Beaver or Denver, CO which are all 175 or so miles. Thanks in advance!

Probably the Ink Pump tube. We've never had to replace them on the 1650 but have on the M. On the M it actually says Ink Pump but it's the same error code.

That’s about right for the method with design. 20/sq ft. Your process is going to be better than any wholesaler who’s printing direct to ACM. We’d print direct to ACM and overlam with Tedlar for longevity and do it in half the time, which saves on labor and cost.

I have a 1650 and an M and haven't see vertical banding like this that wasn't related to material, but considering you've tried that many medias definitely the printer. If it's happening more apparent on matte mode, it probably has something to with the encoder or the machine isn't level. I've...

Looks like the media is slipping and not advancing properly or an encoder strip is really dirty.

I saw this come through from a wholesale and was a little shocked. Is there really only 8 printers in the US that are certified G7. The process doesn't seem too hard to do G7, so I was surprised at such a small number. Is there a lot I'm missing?

Are you using a digital acrylic?

I've also seen the magenta drop shadow issue. And only on the M. My 1650 prints them great so it gets anything with drop shadows.

I've seen this on some of my metal prints as well. This might not be your case but I had to clean mine with alcohol after sublimating and it went away. It's almost like the transfer paper and coating react funny. I also use the this for moisture control...

That probably doesn't exist. First, that screen shot is the signs.com website. They put 100's of thousands of dollars building that website and having it work like it does with 100's of variables and pricing based on what they need to charge. Second, most companies are not going to give you...

Another tip as well, I like to use a minimum of a 4mm bit, ideally 6mm if the letters are larger. The vacuum cleanup is better with a larger bit and then we don't have to clean with air when we're done.

We use UltraAluminum regularly to cut letters like you do. I can get perfect cuts on mine. I agree with JBurton, it looks like you need to reverse the direction. My only issue is if the bit isn't really sharp sometimes the bottom styrene doesn't cut well. I also save a bit only for this product...

We've had our Zund since 2012 and as far as I can remember we've had edge recognition.

That's surprising they don't have edge recognition.

https://www.amazon.com/Mounting-Fastener-Brackets-Stainless-Business/dp/B0D12GR965/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2VAEAISJOP4U&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.hC_5hviwPJcD0N_BXLeu1dG-YsuGKq-xXV286UyHKLbgD-WDwkGOd7pdBRxIJG5AeDfrQnAIvke_Sm4IDOlpz6_jS_XcitSvQ4FBv4HZvIAf5wIJeoZyf1DFYQSSKuVLUm2VJBLF3V8sZWSmg1Yjb5xObo-FCwv3voP...

Thanks Mark. I'll look into that and let you know if I need a sample.

What's your go to clear vinyl for wall graphics? We use IJ180cv3 when it's its diecut or solid print but I have a specific job that has shadows that needs to show the paint color throughout. We typically use Oracal 3620 for Window Graphics that need be clear but not sure how well that adhesive...

The dots are in the right place. It's missing the Orientation dot, which is the double dot at one corner so you know which way is top and bottom.

I did find out after updating to 24 that Zund Cut Center has to be upgraded to the latest software in order to use the Direct option. 22.5 worked on the current ZCC software I have but not 24. Also, they have some bugs that they still don't have fixed. Zund registration dots show up in the cut...

We do them 16" on center (4" in from each side & 3/4" down) for 24 wide signs and 15-16" down on 1 side depending on the post they use. We haven't been putting grommets in the bottom for most people.