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I don't think they want to end up with no pre-mask, they just want to know how do you layer before masking.

We hand cut back. It's a PITA and time consuming. But usually the roll ups are anodized not painted.

With crappy text/line art it's easy enough to tell them if I don't get the right file it'll be $xx extra but I will give you the file for future use. If it's a photo/gradients I do as suggested above sending a close up screen shot. If they still want it I hit print.

If it were mine I'd paint it. Wraps are not happy with getting scratched and dinged. We do police cars and the doors look like crap after a year. Then there's the idea of your first wrap being a boat, compound curves are tricky.

Seems like some manufacturers have taken this situation as an opportunity drop products that may not be as popular or profitable. For example Arlon no longer makes 15" material.

Use the pdf

Best option for weight/dimension is HDU. Don't know what your capabilities are, but even without a cnc you could make faux wood with common power and hand tools. Then a faux paint finish. Mount some cast plastic letters on it and you have a nice look. Or you could do the same with trex, just...

You could do a mesh banner. I don't like the way they look but they are effective. We did a couple really large ones on the side of an appartment building that was maybe 10 stories. The banners were installed from a roof that was about halfway up. They lasted many many years in a brutally windy...

You need a better grade of plywood, I think ACX is the designation. After cutting seal edges with paintable caulk, the prime and paint with exterior grade paints. If warping is still an issue add some stringers on the back.

I also do a warm up print, but since you have tried multiple times I assume that's not the issue. A bad batch of material may be the problem. Also higher heat setting may help. One question, why are you printing white, isn't the material white?

(Hobbyist, I think it's 10" tall not thick) Canuck mentions an issue I have occasionally, letters being too thick. They can be illegible unless spaced apart. 3/16" is ok at 10", though I prefer 1/4". With mounting blocks they have a nice dimension. One other thing I usually hate is flush...

I install the lettering then install the clear over it.

I use cast for anything outside that is going to be there more than a year.

Yea, we also refuse to use foamboard. It's too delicate. Either a gatorboard type panel or pvc

Thats right RJ, if they want the real stuff that is the way to go. We still apply clear over the whole thing.

Square foot pricing only goes so far. You have to look at the time involved. One square foot of 3" helvetica is not the same as one square foot of 3/4" Times Roman. And instalsl have to include the time to get ready, travel, on site time and time back to the shop. Then there's the time involved...

Vinyl EFX Durable is the best I've found. But for any job that is supposed to last I apply clear vinyl over it with a trap.

I use "waterproof" poster stock or 1mm pvc

Direct print on ACM.

flat with a sheet of something heavy on it. You may have to get creative. In one shop I worked in we had an 8'x8' light table hung from the ceiling on pulleys.