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You can replace the head mechanically and calibrate the physical position of the head, but it's difficult to set up the voltage and the waveform for the new head, as it usually requires the key. I've heard that some people tried to change it in the windows register file, but I'm not sure, if it...

Fujifilm Acuity with double table - print area is 2500 x 3050 mm. Specific model depends on a budget, but worth to check. Or Inca Onset - 1600 x 3200 mm. But here budget won't be low :-)

A partial solution may be printing unidirectionally with full carriage travel across the table width. Also few seconds pause after each pass may help. But the best way is to use the LED UV printer (like Fujifilm's LED1600), there's no heat under the lamps there.

I didn't mean that longer lightfastness is not possible - but information, that there are some 'niche' products doesn't mean, that they will be popular. There must be a reason that this product is limited, if it would be so good, it could be sold in thousands... I'm always afraid of "special...

UV light during curing starts polimerisation in the liquid ink (that's why one of the components is photoinitiators)- that changes the state of matter of the ink from liquid to solid. Colour change after some exposure to the sunlight takes place in the pigment (which is a different component)...

Many years ago I was cleaning 6 CA3 heads (taken from the oldest Acuity printer model) in the ultrasonic cleaner using original flushing solution. The result was perfect - 100% nozzles recovered, but after 10 months all these printheads died within 20 days. Generally they don't like ultrasonic...

The answer based on information given by you is - there is something wrong with the yellow channel. Want more details, give more details...

The test file was prepared by a company specialized in printing on lenticulars. It was a very simply file - just a horizontal stripes with a width of the stripe of the lenticular. Company said, that if the printer is able to keep a printed line on a stripe of the lenticular across the whole...

Fujifilm Acuity / Oce Arizona series. I don't know prices, but I guess you could find used one. Without LcLm and with standard UV system, but for sure with support in the USA, with higher resolution and white ink. I did some test prints on lenticular sheets (size 1m x 2m or something similar)...

Another advantage of UV LED is that you may print on substrates, which are very sensitive for the high temperature and not possible to be printed under standard UV lamps (because they could bend, wave or burn). Also energy consumption is very low (in comparison with standard UV systems).

Of course a model / supplier of your printer we should find in our crystall balls? I did it - try to set first parameter to 5, second one to 17.5 and turn the left knob counterclockwise 3.5 turns. Is it ok now? According to my experience should be...

If you swap bulbs between cartridges, you must be aware that it's a procedure not supported by a printer suppliers (both). Technically it may be done, but it may be also dangerous for reflectors inside the cartridge. They are very soft and may be distorted easily, which may lead to curing...

So now from the beginning: - swap casettes with bulbs (when you have casettes removed, check the shutters movement, sometimes they may stuck, as someone wrote) - if the problem stays on the same side, check 3 fans on the top of the lamp, if they are working. Verify also, that the filter above...

Usually the source of such problem may be: - the bulb itself - the lamp housing - the cable (rarely) - the power supply. Which exactly model of Acuity you use? First of all - swap bulbs between lamps (wait first until they are cold, don't burn your fingers!) and check, if the problem stays in...

Check Inca Onset series, scalable architecture, various colour combinations, various automation options. Really good brand, good quality and solid position on the market.

It may be damaged Z-axis motor, may be damaged plastic thing, which connect Z-axis motor with the carriage body. Also it's possible that something is wrong with the communication inside the printer. Z-axis motors have encoders, which may give wrong data. Generally speaking it's difficult to find...

SDS key may help you, but sometimes you just have to replace something to be 100% sure, so try to get spare ribbon and/or printhead.

If the printer can't configure the head, it may be caused by damaged ribbon cable, but this is quite easy to verify - switch off the printer and swap ribbons between faulty head and any other, then switch on the printer again and check, if the same printhead isn't working (this means that the...

I was testing printing on cork on the Fuji Acuity flatbed. As I remember (it was a couple of years ago) the only problem was the temperature generated by the UV lamps, so additional pauses after each pass and full table travel were required. But it was a real flatbed, not the belt printer.

Acuity doesn't have any mechanism for change of the finish except swap of inks (KO are more glossy than KI for example). Playing with UV lamps power won't make a big difference imho, it's not Onset, where you can change the finish.