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If you can design it so one face can be removable you can fasten thru the sides of the cabinet. If not then you'll probably need some brackets, two on the bottom and two on the top would be least conspicuous and paint to match cabinet and the brick

So for the high end stuff like digital reader boards how do the manufacturers selling direct deal with warranty issues?

What JBurton said. I use just the "nose" of the squeegee, not the whole flat edge. Use hard firm pressure and don't rush it till you develop a good technique.

I talked to Drytac and there are no designated resellers for my area, so Ii can buy it direct. I asked them for a reseller anywhere and they gave me one, but they also only sell 50 yards. I did find a few other brands.... but then my client threw me a curve. They want to know if they can get...

I've heard of the epoxy method. Might try it next time since the smalt "glues" are getting hard to find

I agree, powder coating doesn't dry like paint. Once it's done it's fully "cured".

No. One of my largest clients only pays with an emailed one use credit card # that is one time use only assigned to one invoice. I prefer a check when the client asks how to pay. Who has cash anymore? There was a time when certain industries could be counted on to pay in cash...now they are...

Yes.

I just used that exact mixture. I used to use Holdfast Oil/One Shot, but couldn't find Holdfast so went with Smiths. I smalted the sign on Saturday, flipped it on Monday, installed on Tuesday. Even though the mix hasn't completely hardened the smalt was stuck good. I had to clean some smalt...

Yep, ACM

This looks like a great material, but in 60" it's only available in 150' rolls.... I only need 10yds

I'd like it to last many years. It's interior use, and I've had good results with dry erase laminate for the same client. But in this case they just want what dry erase applied to the wall around the whole perimeter of the room. So I'd rather use a white dry erase material instead of having to...

I'm looking for 48" white dry erase adhesive back vinyl. Doesn't have to be printable, we are just applying it as is to walls. I've been looking online and most of what I'm finding aren't brands I'm used to. I want it to be really good quality to last as long as possible and be fairly easy to...

There's still plenty of work that can be done with cut vinyl. Go out and take a your "portfolio", business cards and work order/contract form. Hit all the shops that have crappy looking/old signs and offer to update them.

Is that a government spec? I would clarify because that type of material is hardly ever used anymore, especially outside.

I'd start in the middle. Roll up the graphic from either end to the middle so you have two rolls. Tape center hinge and tape the roll of the side you aren't doing first in place. Cut the backer and start working out, unrolling the vinyl and backer as you go. It's not easy and you have to deal...

Signtime - I don't think that would work, the smalt would be really hard to clean and the edges would be ragged. JRs- I gild slightly onto the face,I wouldn't call it an outline though. You have to leave a slight outline around the edge of the letters when apply the "glue" for the smalt. The...

A agree Brian, and smalting with raised letters is much easier. One suggestion I heard that I want to try is to put a small "shoulder" on the bottom of dimensional letters to make smalting even simpler.

We originally made this sign 27 years ago, it was damaged and not salvagable so we remade it. HDU carved, painted with acrylic polyurethane, gilded, smalted. PVC panels with gold leaf. Repainted posts and installed. As soon as it was carved I wish I had made the numeral smaller and a little more...

I'm jealous VanderJ, though I would prefer Sept/Oct. Are you doing the whole trail?