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Sorry, I meant are you able to get one of those in a harder form like LUS-170 equivalent. Marabu/Artix/Sun chemical may be willing to send you a LUS120 ink bottle with a LUS170 chip to trick your machine into using a harder ink.

Are you able to get LUS-120 ink with an LUS-170 chip? I am going to try this next.

Try STS inks LUS-170. I switched months ago and it's been great, non sticky, hard gloss prints. Can even get them smoother than OEM because I can lower the UV light adjustment and still get rock hard 150% gloss prints.

Switch to STS LUS-170 clear ink, no more sticky :)

I just mean, when I compare my Mimaki gloss to Roland gloss, the Roland gloss seems smoother. But your print does look very solid. How many clear overprints?

Do you happen to know of any other operation parameter functions? Specifically, I am looking for a way to lower/disable only the back half of the UV LEDs. When the print starts, only the front half of the LEDs light up, and an inch or two into the print, the back half of the LEDs turn on. I am...

No flushing, and I only switched clear because I have heard their CMYK+W are not much different from oems. And yes LUS170 clear.

Yeah lowering your gloss level will help too, then you can also lower your UV lamp setting. my theory is it's something to do with how the gloss ink + UV lamp reacts to the vinyl that makes it puff like that. Also going back to the STS inks thing - I don't think there's any way for your...

Lexjet has an HP gloss permanent adhesive vinyl I'm pretty happy with, also doing work for cannabis brands and clients seem happy with quality. Also heard General Formulations 216 (which they also carry for cheaper than the HP) is great. Both non-air release. I've always personally found non-air...

Air release vinyl is more susceptible to this. Also, if you lower your UV adjustment it fries it a little less. STS Clear inks has changed the game for me personally. For what it's worth I think the puff effect looks pretty cool lol. More of that Roland, rounded gloss look.

We do have it! It's in Menu>Setup>(choose setup #)>UV Mode and then you can change "ON" to either "OFF" or "NOPRINT" Otherwise they must have ditched it on the 330 but that seems counterproductive. Also to explain what manual MAPS does (I just re-read your OP)... So terminology wise, I know...

You should be good if you run a second NOPRINT pass on any super thick clear runs. Once you're out of warranty I would honestly recommend just switching from OEM clear to STS's version. It's cheaper, glossier, less yellowed, and doesn't seem to get the fogged/smudged effect or sticking even at...

I'm currently printing color >pullback then multiple overprints of clear, so unfortunately no way to do this without multiple overprints of color. Also, it is strange because if I cut with no registration marks, it cuts where it needs to be (no more than a mm or so out of alignment) but I like...

Do you have any idea why my UCJV cannot find the first registration marks when pull-back printing? It always searches above the first mark, and then I get a mark detect error and have to manually place the laser. I only noticed this happening after I swapped out my Y motor (which should have...

Holy hell, yep, worked for me. Thank you so much! This is a game changer. Literally saves minutes every print. Not to mention I can actually walk away from the prints! Makes me wonder how many other fixes are in the parameters and not mentioned in the user manual.

Looks like whatever you did you nailed it (and if you ever need a nice glossy material, I've been using a lot of HP Permanent Gloss Adhesive from Lexjet lately. Would this be in the #Cut or #Adjust or which area? I'm not at my machine currently. Or is this only for 330s? Will this exist on a...

Oh dude, I totally forgot that yeah the safety clips have to be out lol. The tech that delivered my printer took them out day 1 so I forgot that's even a thing. They're really easy to take off and I was told if you ever lose them you can just throw a piece of cardboard in the slot it goes into...

You want to flip them down as soon as it puts them up (I just follow behind the tool arm and do it as soon as it lifts them) so that it pulls the vinyl back *with all* the rollers. Where can I also email them? Maybe there's strength in numbers? The major downside is having to do this between...

I know it's late, I don't believe anybody said this yet, but if you put your pinch rollers down manually as soon as it lifts them up (just pull the purple arm back over to the right) you can pullback print with all rollers down, which leads to a way better alignment. I have pretty solid success...

Been having similar issues with my clear ink on my UCJV300, where the first 2inches or so of the print are super thick gloss, and then it lays down a lighter layer/gives light banding in the clear ink and a less spectacular glossy look.