UCJV330 Gloss Curing

[Goatshaver]

I recently had a job I did with spot gloss and the sheets crackled a bit here and I mailed them off to the customer and when he got them they were really stuck together so much that some of the backing paper from the sheet on top stuck to the gloss on the sheet below. It may be a combination of things since they sat in a hot delivery vehicle for a day or two and humidity has been high but I don't feel this should be happening and I'm not sure why. I've done some other gloss jobs and haven't had that happen.

I was using 100% gloss for coverage on them. UV lamp was set to the default state, they didn't really feel tacky when they came off the machine. I'm not really sure what to do other than lower my gloss to like 70% perhaps and turn up my lamps more.

Also I have checked the glass under my lamps and they are clean. I wipe them at the end of the week when I do my normal maintenance.

Also does anyone know what the manual setting under the MAPS does? Seems like it spreads the droplets out and slows it down form what the manual says and that adjusts the quality of the gloss. My gloss looks great but it's just not curing well it seems.

 

[willkho]

Really sorry for that, mate. Honestly this is an old story, everyone has the same problem. They said use less than 30% clear but definitely you won't have enough gloss.

 

[Kemik]

I normally use 44/44% gloss unless they are expecting it to be raised.

 

[RonnyCrack]

I switched to STS inks and this problem is gone for me. Gloss sheets slide right off each other even after days stacked. I even have my UV percentage down to -40% for gloss prints to make them a little extra smooth looking, and it remains hard and clear, no sticking. It's truly Mimaki OEM inks that are the problem with the sticking/clouding/fogging.

That being said, I'm still hellbent on making my gloss prints smoother. Compared to a Roland gloss print as a filet mignon, I have a hamburger. Still great but not quite as fancy.

 

[dinomaskot]

Goatshaver have you managed to sort it out? I've got my UCJV330 coming in a few days and one of the main reasons for getting it was the gloss..

 

[RonnyCrack]

Goatshaver have you managed to sort it out? I've got my UCJV330 coming in a few days and one of the main reasons for getting it was the gloss..

You should be good if you run a second NOPRINT pass on any super thick clear runs. Once you're out of warranty I would honestly recommend just switching from OEM clear to STS's version. It's cheaper, glossier, less yellowed, and doesn't seem to get the fogged/smudged effect or sticking even at very low UV light percentage.

 

[Goatshaver]

Goatshaver have you managed to sort it out? I've got my UCJV330 coming in a few days and one of the main reasons for getting it was the gloss..

I haven't had any complaints. I use 45/45% on single layers. If I do a slightly raised print with it I use 40/40% on 2 layers.. It was also due to the media backing paper as well I think. Since I started using Substance matte vinyl I have not had any sticking issues.

 

[Goatshaver]

You should be good if you run a second NOPRINT pass on any super thick clear runs. Once you're out of warranty I would honestly recommend just switching from OEM clear to STS's version. It's cheaper, glossier, less yellowed, and doesn't seem to get the fogged/smudged effect even at very low UV light percentage.

How do you run a no print pass?
I know on flatbeds it's an option but the roll machines don't have that feature although I wish they would put something like that in an update.

 

[RonnyCrack]

How do you run a no print pass?
I know on flatbeds it's an option but the roll machines don't have that feature although I wish they would put something like that in an update.

We do have it! It's in Menu>Setup>(choose setup #)>UV Mode and then you can change "ON" to either "OFF" or "NOPRINT"

Otherwise they must have ditched it on the 330 but that seems counterproductive.

Also to explain what manual MAPS does (I just re-read your OP)...
So terminology wise, I know I'm wrong but it sort of uses noise to "dither" the passes of ink into each other to hide banding. Prints with MAPS (especially with clear ink) have a more noticeable "noise" or bump pattern if you zoom in real close. The lower the MAPS setting, the smoother the print, but if your head has dropped nozzles you might experience more banding.

I keep my color MAPS setting at 80% and special color MAPS setting at 0%

 

[Goatshaver]

I'm curious if anyone else has encountered this issue with UV prints and clear gloss/matte ink. It doesn't happen consistently on every single piece but happens to at least some pieces on every clear job I run.
The initial prints come out looking fine but within a couple of days I notice this "puffing" where the clear ink has laid down. If I look at the back of the vinyl the places where the clear ink is you can see it makes this concave area in the vinyl. When the label is on a items it sucks the vinyl right off the item it's supposed to be adhered to.

Really trying to figure out if this is something I'm doing or something with the vinyl.

 

[dinomaskot]

I haven't noticed that. I'll keep an eye on some stickers that I have in the shop, and will report back on monday if I have any like this.
I noticed that the vinyl is "raised" only when i did the 2.5D

 

[RonnyCrack]

I'm curious if anyone else has encountered this issue with UV prints and clear gloss/matte ink. It doesn't happen consistently on every single piece but happens to at least some pieces on every clear job I run.
The initial prints come out looking fine but within a couple of days I notice this "puffing" where the clear ink has laid down. If I look at the back of the vinyl the places where the clear ink is you can see it makes this concave area in the vinyl. When the label is on a items it sucks the vinyl right off the item it's supposed to be adhered to.

Really trying to figure out if this is something I'm doing or something with the vinyl.

Air release vinyl is more susceptible to this. Also, if you lower your UV adjustment it fries it a little less. STS Clear inks has changed the game for me personally. For what it's worth I think the puff effect looks pretty cool lol. More of that Roland, rounded gloss look.

 

[Goatshaver]

Air release vinyl is more susceptible to this. Also, if you lower your UV adjustment it fries it a little less. STS Clear inks has changed the game for me personally. For what it's worth I think the puff effect looks pretty cool lol. More of that Roland, rounded gloss look.

I'll have to really experiment with settings or switch to a non-air release to help prevent it. My machine is still under warranty and don't want to void that so switching inks isn't in my book just yet.
It would be fine it it did it evenly to everything, but when only certain areas do it it really makes it look not so great.

 

[RonnyCrack]

I'll have to really experiment with settings or switch to a non-air release to help prevent it. My machine is still under warranty and don't want to void that so switching inks isn't in my book just yet.
It would be fine it it did it evenly to everything, but when only certain areas do it it really makes it look not so great.

Lexjet has an HP gloss permanent adhesive vinyl I'm pretty happy with, also doing work for cannabis brands and clients seem happy with quality. Also heard General Formulations 216 (which they also carry for cheaper than the HP) is great. Both non-air release. I've always personally found non-air release to be much easier to weed as well, but maybe a bit harder to dial in cuts since the backing is generally thinner IME.

 

[Goatshaver]

Right now I use Substance 3755 Matte AR. I think I'll get a roll of non-ar to try.
Also what was weird is that a Mimaki rep told me when buying this never to use more than 50% clear ink. Then a few weeks ago I was told to try it at 90-100%. lol
Those photos I posted were done with a pass of 100% of CMYK and white under the regular 4 color then a pullback with 90% clear gloss.

 

[RonnyCrack]

Right now I use Substance 3755 Matte AR. I think I'll get a roll of non-ar to try.
Also what was weird is that a Mimaki rep told me when buying this never to use more than 50% clear ink. Then a few weeks ago I was told to try it at 90-100%. lol
Those photos I posted were done with a pass of 100% of CMYK and white under the regular 4 color then a pullback with 90% clear gloss.

Yeah lowering your gloss level will help too, then you can also lower your UV lamp setting. my theory is it's something to do with how the gloss ink + UV lamp reacts to the vinyl that makes it puff like that.

Also going back to the STS inks thing - I don't think there's any way for your warranty provider to prove you've used them without you explicitly letting them know

Been using their clear lus-170 for 6 months. They're a bit slower on shipping though compared to something like APC/Lexjet.

 

[Kemik]

I switched to STS inks and this problem is gone for me. Gloss sheets slide right off each other even after days stacked. I even have my UV percentage down to -40% for gloss prints to make them a little extra smooth looking, and it remains hard and clear, no sticking. It's truly Mimaki OEM inks that are the problem with the sticking/clouding/fogging.

That being said, I'm still hellbent on making my gloss prints smoother. Compared to a Roland gloss print as a filet mignon, I have a hamburger. Still great but not quite as fancy.

I am thinking of switching, is this the STS LUS170?
Did you just switch the clear, or did you switch all the CMYKW over as well?
Did you have to flush out the OEM ink first?

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

STS LUS-170 can be swapped to or from Mimaki LUS-170 without flushing.

 

[Kemik]

STS LUS-170 can be swapped to or from Mimaki LUS-170 without flushing.

Thanks!

 

[RonnyCrack]

Thanks!

No flushing, and I only switched clear because I have heard their CMYK+W are not much different from oems. And yes LUS170 clear.