UCJV330 Gloss Curing

[Goatshaver]

I recently had a job I did with spot gloss and the sheets crackled a bit here and I mailed them off to the customer and when he got them they were really stuck together so much that some of the backing paper from the sheet on top stuck to the gloss on the sheet below. It may be a combination of things since they sat in a hot delivery vehicle for a day or two and humidity has been high but I don't feel this should be happening and I'm not sure why. I've done some other gloss jobs and haven't had that happen.

I was using 100% gloss for coverage on them. UV lamp was set to the default state, they didn't really feel tacky when they came off the machine. I'm not really sure what to do other than lower my gloss to like 70% perhaps and turn up my lamps more.

Also I have checked the glass under my lamps and they are clean. I wipe them at the end of the week when I do my normal maintenance.

Also does anyone know what the manual setting under the MAPS does? Seems like it spreads the droplets out and slows it down form what the manual says and that adjusts the quality of the gloss. My gloss looks great but it's just not curing well it seems.

 

[willkho]

Really sorry for that, mate. Honestly this is an old story, everyone has the same problem. They said use less than 30% clear but definitely you won't have enough gloss.

 

[Kemik]

I normally use 44/44% gloss unless they are expecting it to be raised.

 

[RonnyCrack]

I switched to STS inks and this problem is gone for me. Gloss sheets slide right off each other even after days stacked. I even have my UV percentage down to -40% for gloss prints to make them a little extra smooth looking, and it remains hard and clear, no sticking. It's truly Mimaki OEM inks that are the problem with the sticking/clouding/fogging.

That being said, I'm still hellbent on making my gloss prints smoother. Compared to a Roland gloss print as a filet mignon, I have a hamburger. Still great but not quite as fancy.

 

[dinomaskot]

Goatshaver have you managed to sort it out? I've got my UCJV330 coming in a few days and one of the main reasons for getting it was the gloss..

 

[RonnyCrack]

Goatshaver have you managed to sort it out? I've got my UCJV330 coming in a few days and one of the main reasons for getting it was the gloss..

You should be good if you run a second NOPRINT pass on any super thick clear runs. Once you're out of warranty I would honestly recommend just switching from OEM clear to STS's version. It's cheaper, glossier, less yellowed, and doesn't seem to get the fogged/smudged effect or sticking even at very low UV light percentage.

 

[Goatshaver]

Goatshaver have you managed to sort it out? I've got my UCJV330 coming in a few days and one of the main reasons for getting it was the gloss..

I haven't had any complaints. I use 45/45% on single layers. If I do a slightly raised print with it I use 40/40% on 2 layers.. It was also due to the media backing paper as well I think. Since I started using Substance matte vinyl I have not had any sticking issues.

 

[Goatshaver]

You should be good if you run a second NOPRINT pass on any super thick clear runs. Once you're out of warranty I would honestly recommend just switching from OEM clear to STS's version. It's cheaper, glossier, less yellowed, and doesn't seem to get the fogged/smudged effect even at very low UV light percentage.

How do you run a no print pass?
I know on flatbeds it's an option but the roll machines don't have that feature although I wish they would put something like that in an update.

 

[RonnyCrack]

How do you run a no print pass?
I know on flatbeds it's an option but the roll machines don't have that feature although I wish they would put something like that in an update.

We do have it! It's in Menu>Setup>(choose setup #)>UV Mode and then you can change "ON" to either "OFF" or "NOPRINT"

Otherwise they must have ditched it on the 330 but that seems counterproductive.

Also to explain what manual MAPS does (I just re-read your OP)...
So terminology wise, I know I'm wrong but it sort of uses noise to "dither" the passes of ink into each other to hide banding. Prints with MAPS (especially with clear ink) have a more noticeable "noise" or bump pattern if you zoom in real close. The lower the MAPS setting, the smoother the print, but if your head has dropped nozzles you might experience more banding.

I keep my color MAPS setting at 80% and special color MAPS setting at 0%