Wow... forgive me for saying so, but I'm wondering if you are overthinking it.
Detailled drawings of methods and attachments and tabs etc might relate to one material alone and not another.
Where metals might be folded or welded, acrylic might be glued or solid. Timber might be different again.
The worst jobs I've had is where the architect sends 3D drawings and tried to tell you how it is to be made, instead of the finished look wanted- because invariably those drawings began with someone who thought one was was better than another, and their inexperience in a specific field, shows up. The drawings looked great to an amateur, but were a waste of time in the workshop.
eg wanting folded and welded stainless steel letters, then painted in 2-pack urethane, at 3" tall, to be mounted 10 feet high up a wall.
Seriously, solid 25mm lasered acrylic, and painted in automotive acrylic lacquer to the right colour, then a 2k clearcoat was far simpler and cheaper for the same look and durability. Solid routed 32mm acrylic is OK too.
If you are not careful, the time spent drawing unneeded detail adds cost for the client but achieves nothing when the fabricator knows their job better than the designer/draughtsman.
My first reaction when an architect sends something overdrawn is "can't I do it my way?" "Why?" "Well why did they draw this when that is what is really needed?" "Oh, ok then..." "Thanks".
Other times I've been sent a drawing that worked at 18" tall. but when scaled down to 3", did not work at all due to impractical material thicknesses. Or I was told they wanted 2 ft high solid acrylic @ 2" thick letters, indoors, when fabricating hollow ones would have been better.
I've had architects specify marine plywood, to be painted in 2k urethane in a set colour specified edge treatment etc- that I can buy alupanel in already the right colour, and just fold the edges.
Yesterday I was asked if we can laser tasmanian oak for a shop fascia 4 metres up in the air.
I said yes, but by the time you get the right stuff in a veneer, and the laser will make it a light brown not the black wanted, you will need to mask and spray it, then seriously seal the charcoal & lasered edges etc etc - you might as well use a wood-grain alupanel, and plotted cast vinyl letters - or mask and spray it in paint as from street level, no one will appreciate the difference except the person making and affixing it.
Too much wrong detail is worse than not enough!
If someone wants a 3D rendition, I provide a 2D rendition, plus a photo of a similar finished 3D job we've done that way. Reality is better than software fanciness, to me!
But we use Corel and Enroute if we need to show something - plus Photoshop.