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4'x6' Diamond (Orajet 3651) on rivet-less trailer - wet or dry?

50westgraphics

New Member
Hey all - I've got a 4'x6' diamond shaped graphic that's printed on Orajet 3651 w/ laminate and no masking.

The trailer it's going on has no rivets, just thin seams (thank God), and is glossy and smooth. Not to mention brand new - primo trailer for graphics.

Anyway - I've applied big graphics before but they were always just in cut vinyl which of course is more forgiving that a giant block of print, in terms of bubbles. I've always applied graphics dry; the only thing I've ever installed wet was window tint.

My concern is how wide and tall it is and I'll be working alone. How would you guys do it? Wet or dry?

I'm not a complete noob, but I am one of the "backyarders." I've been doing this for about 2 years. Had plans to take this to a legit business level, but had a baby and my priorities shifted to her. Please don't hate, I know this seems like another stupid question from the type of person that is not always welcomed here, but I just want installation opinions.

Thanks in advance!
 

Auburnpeanut

New Member
I typically prefer to put down dry. that being said, if you are by yourself and it is windy or really sunny and warm out wet might be the way to go.
 

TheSnowman

New Member
Something that big I'd have for sure done something with air release and done it dry...but if you already have it printed on just normal 3651, I'd hose that sucker down and do it wet for sure if I was alone. Wouldn't be hard at all since it's just a flat trailer.
 

50westgraphics

New Member
Thanks for the quick replies! What are your thoughts on a couple drops of dish soap in water for a solution to spray it with? Works really well for tinting windows - different adhesive, I know.

I don't have access to RapidTac and I'd like to knock this out this weekend while the weather will give me a break. Snowman, you're also in the Hoosier state, you know the weather roller coaster we've been dealing with.
 

Auburnpeanut

New Member
Thanks for the quick replies! What are your thoughts on a couple drops of dish soap in water for a solution to spray it with? Works really well for tinting windows - different adhesive, I know.

I don't have access to RapidTac and I'd like to knock this out this weekend while the weather will give me a break. Snowman, you're also in the Hoosier state, you know the weather roller coaster we've been dealing with.

People will yell and scream that you said that...one drop of dawn dishsoap in spray bottle of water works fine in a pinch.
 

FS-Keith

New Member
thats a 15-20 minute job tops and easily done dry. If you are worried about the points of the diamond warping then just tape the last 2 feet of them.
 

CanuckSigns

Active Member
Use a tape hinge down the middle, apply the left side, that the right, shouldn't take more than 20 minutes, and if you take care, there shouldn't be any bubbles either
 

Pat Whatley

New Member
Do it wet, it'll be fine. You're not going to be fighting rivets or anything so it won't be a big deal.

I love Rapid Tac but water/alcohol/soap will work, too.
 

Trip59

New Member
I love to apply wet and am an avid RapidTac user. Call it a crutch, but for a couple cents per job it goes nice and smooth and prevents embarrassments (being in Florida, with the wind and bugs, and on-site installs, it gets interesting at times). I can do dry, occasionally do without issue, but don't see a rule that I HAVE to because some pros say you should.

That said, as soon as you mentioned the seams, I'm assuming overlapped panels on the surface, I would switch to dry, getting the material to tuck and stick nice (unless you're slitting at the seam) is just so much easier dry.

if it's solid and not weeded out all over in the middle, I'd hinge vertically, grab my Yello Bodyguard tool and slit, then slit just wide enough to have a workable area, with the tip still having the backing so it doesn't stick or flap in the wind and grab bugs, then move out from there. If it lined up where you could do it in like 4 sections, slitting the back at the laps, that would make it easier to work into them.
 

petepaz

New Member
we use a ton of the 3651 and they do make an air release version also. we keep a roll of that on hand for just such an occasion.
 

50westgraphics

New Member
I wound up doing the entire thing dry. Really was not nearly as bad as I had feared. The 3651 is just thick enough to not be a total pain but also thin enough to lay down nice. I appreciate everyone's input. I gained a lot of confidence from the install and the customers were super happy with it. Just how it should be!

And for those who mentioned it - it was a diamond shape, but had letters protruding from the top of the diamond and a rectangular shape towards the bottom. Wasn't all weeded out in the middle, but had some protrusions at the top and bottom.
 

phototec

New Member
The center hinge method dry should work well, just split the 6' section in half with the hinge tape, that way you are just working with one 3'x4' panel at a time.

I would also recommend using the Big Squeegee yard sign tool, I use it on large installs, work great no bubbles.

When applying large panels wet, I always use RapidTac, just makes everything go so easy.

:smile:
 

Tizz

New Member
I'd apply it wet also. Especially if I were doing it alone.
As for baby shampoo... I use Johnson & Johnson, has a nice aroma to it!
 

SIGNTIME

New Member
dry center hinge i would have masked it but since you didnt just put a little transfer tape where you will be holding so it doesnt stretch
 

d fleming

Premium Subscriber
I see you're already done and dry ;-). I do a lot of large window work with the air release and non air release versions of 3651 as well as perf. Mostly temp work, year or less. All full bleed. Always alone and outdoors, always with Rapid Tac II so I can recover placement easy if I get off. I can do a series of windows (5 or6) after clean in 2 hours or less this way using a 12" felt wrapped squeegee and a 6" to finish out. 48x72 is about average size for these. Never had a failure or bubbles to worry about. Except for the time I grabbed the sprayer of remover by accident and started spraying the back of a panel, lol, that'll send you back to the shop for another print! Now, vehicles at the shop with time and equipment at hand, dry every time using air release, no problems. Different techniques for different situations and needs.
 

50westgraphics

New Member
I kind of cheated on it - I left the backing paper square around the entire print and taped it down to the trailer, center hinged, peeled back the vinyl and cut the backing and laid the print back down on to it. Then just peeled away the backing as I went.

The big squeegee does interest me, but I am a bit leery of it for some reason. It may be something I invest in soon and experiment with.
 
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