-
I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...
Advice Needed, Never Done THis Before
- Thread starter bob
- Start date
Johnny Best
Active Member
Great idea from Bly and Chaz, going to try this method next time I have some letters to install, thanks.
Johnny Best
Active Member
To bob....just wondering
bob
It's better to have two hands than one glove.
Haven't go the pieces back from my CNC guy as yet. Lots of solutions. I Like the paint mask, if I had any the right size I'd probably do something like that. Failing that I'll probably just use a simple paper template with the suggested strategic corners cut out for pencil marking on the wall. Or maybe mask the PhotoTex I already have cut and see what happens. I can always fall back on the paper template. Which I've made as well. I did some experimenting with the PhotoTex and some Rtape Conform app tape and it looks like it's about 60/40 in my favor of the app tape coming off and leafing the PhotoTex.
The part of this that gives me worries is the 60" long line of 2 1/2" or so text. At least this in this type face all of the characters share a common lower boundary. This means I can tape a six foot rule to the wall over a paper spacing guide and set the characters on the upper edge of the rule. That ought to keep everything properly lined up and square. That's my plan.
After getting the text on straight the rest of the pieces are not so persnickety about absolutely precise location. Either the PhotoTex or the paper template should work.
It's the text that really had me stumped. Until now. The point being that everyone knows what text looks like regardless of what it says. No one really knows what the rest of it looks like So as long as it's reasonably arranged it should be fine.
Nonetheless, thanks to everyone who took the time to generate all of the considerate responses.
Johnny Best
Active Member
Glad everyone could help bob, and yes it was a good thread to learn something.
skyhigh
New Member
I've done a couple different ways, but for this particular artwork, Bills method would be the fastest (easiest), and extremely accurate with the sharp points in the logo.
signbrad
New Member
I would like to see a series of photos showing tbullos method. Or even a video. It's a little hard to visualize from just a description. But when you actually see it done you realize how slick it is.
You don't spend any less time, necessarily, because you still have to place the letters in their positions relative to each other. But the time you spend on the job is a tiny fraction of what it normally is. And if by some chance there is a screwed up letter (such as the wrong side of a letter painted by the new dude in the paint booth), you catch it in the shop, not on site.
Brad
You don't spend any less time, necessarily, because you still have to place the letters in their positions relative to each other. But the time you spend on the job is a tiny fraction of what it normally is. And if by some chance there is a screwed up letter (such as the wrong side of a letter painted by the new dude in the paint booth), you catch it in the shop, not on site.
Brad
Moze
Precision Sign Services
It's really not that many pieces. You could cut a stencil-pattern. Tape it to the wall, it's as easy as putting the oval peg in the oval hole, the square peg in the square hole, etc.
This was done with stencil-cut patterns:
In cases where a paper pattern is provided, I used to cut the corners of the letters, make a pencil mark, etc., but it's pretty time consuming. I now have a small piece of wood with a very sharp brad pushed through a pilot hole. I mark the corners of the letters (or a few key areas of O's, etc.) and it makes install pretty easy. If installing larger pieces, mark where the brad marks are on the wall with a small piece of masking tape. It's easier than searching for them when you're holding a large logo.
This was done with stencil-cut patterns:
In cases where a paper pattern is provided, I used to cut the corners of the letters, make a pencil mark, etc., but it's pretty time consuming. I now have a small piece of wood with a very sharp brad pushed through a pilot hole. I mark the corners of the letters (or a few key areas of O's, etc.) and it makes install pretty easy. If installing larger pieces, mark where the brad marks are on the wall with a small piece of masking tape. It's easier than searching for them when you're holding a large logo.
Last edited:
Pixels Are Bad Mmmkay?
New Member
Easy as one...two...three. Slightly oversized template made from Oracal 631 or other cheap interior vinyl.
