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Advice Needed, Never Done THis Before

Chasez

New Member
I used to do a lot of lasercut office reception logos and used low tack spray mask for a template.
Offset the path 1 or 2mm & make some horizontal cuts through so it's easier to weed out afterwards.

This right here... easiest and fastest way by far... I could produce the spray mask in a matter of minutes, make your level line on the wall, stick on, peel off low tack mask, place pieces, remove spray mask... done shouldn't take more than 15 min to get the logo on the wall.

Chaz
 

Johnny Best

Active Member
This right here... easiest and fastest way by far... I could produce the spray mask in a matter of minutes, make your level line on the wall, stick on, peel off low tack mask, place pieces, remove spray mask... done shouldn't take more than 15 min to get the logo on the wall.

Chaz

Great idea from Bly and Chaz, going to try this method next time I have some letters to install, thanks.
 

Johnny Best

Active Member
To bob....just wondering bob.jpg
 

GB2

Old Member
I think he went to try them all out and he's going to report back to us as to which one worked the best!
 

bob

It's better to have two hands than one glove.
To bob....just wondering View attachment 118509

Haven't go the pieces back from my CNC guy as yet. Lots of solutions. I Like the paint mask, if I had any the right size I'd probably do something like that. Failing that I'll probably just use a simple paper template with the suggested strategic corners cut out for pencil marking on the wall. Or maybe mask the PhotoTex I already have cut and see what happens. I can always fall back on the paper template. Which I've made as well. I did some experimenting with the PhotoTex and some Rtape Conform app tape and it looks like it's about 60/40 in my favor of the app tape coming off and leafing the PhotoTex.

The part of this that gives me worries is the 60" long line of 2 1/2" or so text. At least this in this type face all of the characters share a common lower boundary. This means I can tape a six foot rule to the wall over a paper spacing guide and set the characters on the upper edge of the rule. That ought to keep everything properly lined up and square. That's my plan.

After getting the text on straight the rest of the pieces are not so persnickety about absolutely precise location. Either the PhotoTex or the paper template should work.

It's the text that really had me stumped. Until now. The point being that everyone knows what text looks like regardless of what it says. No one really knows what the rest of it looks like So as long as it's reasonably arranged it should be fine.

Nonetheless, thanks to everyone who took the time to generate all of the considerate responses.
 

skyhigh

New Member
We've done a few with a paper pattern. Instead of punching with an awl we cut out a little triangle where each corner is ahead of time. Tape the pattern in place and lightly draw the corners in with a pencil.
I've done a couple different ways, but for this particular artwork, Bills method would be the fastest (easiest), and extremely accurate with the sharp points in the logo.
 

signbrad

New Member
I would like to see a series of photos showing tbullos method. Or even a video. It's a little hard to visualize from just a description. But when you actually see it done you realize how slick it is.
You don't spend any less time, necessarily, because you still have to place the letters in their positions relative to each other. But the time you spend on the job is a tiny fraction of what it normally is. And if by some chance there is a screwed up letter (such as the wrong side of a letter painted by the new dude in the paint booth), you catch it in the shop, not on site.

Brad
 

Signchief

New Member
I have a cut-out of many pieces cut from 6mm expanded PVC in two colors. This is some unknown being's clip-art creation, certainly not mine. I'm just implementing it.
What method did you use, how did it go?

View attachment 118474

The thing is 60"wide and ~32" high. It's going to be applied to an interior finished drywall with VHB tape. I've stuck lots of stuff to wall before but never anything with this many pieces.

I thought that I'd print and cut the entire image on a chunk of PhotoTex, put it on the wall, stick the cut-out pieces in their places, and remove the PhotoTex. I printed and cut the image, in two pieces, but the I got to wondering just how I was going to get the two pieces of PhotoTex on the wall. If I use application tape the adhesive in the app tape appears to be more aggressive than the adhesive in the PhotoTex. This would not make for a fun installation.

I absolutely do not want to use a pounce pattern, for many really good reasons, I thought of printing the image on paper, tape it to the wall, and using a small awl indent various cardinal points for each of the pieces of the cut-out, then remove the paper and apply the pieces to those indents. Not particularly satisfying nor as accurate a method as I need.

So here I am, asking for a solution. I like the PhotoTex method if I could figure out a way to get it on the wall. Failing than I'm open to any and all suggestions.
 

Moze

Active Member
It's really not that many pieces. You could cut a stencil-pattern. Tape it to the wall, it's as easy as putting the oval peg in the oval hole, the square peg in the square hole, etc.

wooden_shape_sorter_toy_cover.jpg


This was done with stencil-cut patterns:




In cases where a paper pattern is provided, I used to cut the corners of the letters, make a pencil mark, etc., but it's pretty time consuming. I now have a small piece of wood with a very sharp brad pushed through a pilot hole. I mark the corners of the letters (or a few key areas of O's, etc.) and it makes install pretty easy. If installing larger pieces, mark where the brad marks are on the wall with a small piece of masking tape. It's easier than searching for them when you're holding a large logo.

 
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