An order fell in my lap - now how do I do it

[Gino]

Glad to see all these "professionals" with differing opinions getting along so well!...lol....

Actually, you're quite correct, for a change.

All but one, are in about 100% agreement.

 

[HulkSmash]

Sandbagging is optional and if you're building it you should brace accordingly if you dont expect ideal conditions. I've also grown to realize that "temporary" usually ends up being years with plenty of updates along the way. I always stake my t-frames with steel rebar. Just make sure you're not going to pierce an underground line that could cost ya.

when it comes to large structural signs, listen to this guy ^^

 

[MikePro]

 

[Pat Whatley]

Two posts, two panels per. No stringers needed.

You can letter both sides of each piece to save material if you really want to but I've always found that what I save in materials is quickly eaten up by the extra labor it takes me to frame up and install a double sided panel.

 

[Just Another Sign Guy]

-have never seen a 4X8 as being discussed with 3 posts.
-make sure you have a locator come if required.
-with coro (10mm) have better success screwing to posts with washers, vs routing a slot in side of posts for securing.
-if necessary set the posts in a foot from each side if necessary.
-keep a bucket of pea gravel in your truck for helping to secure the posts in the ground if needed.
-always carry a breaker/digging bar with you when installing these & get the one that has the 'foot' on 1 end for tapping the dirt down to create a securely set post.
-ask Pat Whatley how he sets his 4X4s,in dirt alone I have seen his posts more secure than those set in concrete, no joke I had to use a fence jack to remove one..simply set in dirt was as secure or more than many I've seen set in concrete.
-if you ever have to place one in a lawn put a piece of coro on the ground to stack your dirt on,so much cleaner.
-and if in lawn place the grass plug nearby where it will still get H2O from sprinklers & if sign is truly temporary & only up for a short period of time you can replace plug. Has worked moretimes than I can count.

 

[Billct2]

If it's a real econo job I like Typestries suggestion, a 4x8 printed on both sides with the design pulled in on one side to accomodate the posts. Definately a cheapy look, but it
saves the cost of a second panel and it can still be screwed to the posts with no other
work involved.

 

[Locals Find!]

I have done these before.

Do your 4x4 posts as usual. I get 2" x 2" x 8' treated pieces and screw them to the posts (after cutting down to 4' of course). Screw your 10mm to these side pieces. Just to be on the safe side get another 2" x 2" and run horizontally the full length across top and bottom since 10 mm does tend to bow. I paint the strips white with cheap latex just to blend in better. Screw your 10 mm to these for extra support. You could use a 2" x 4" if you feel wind is going to be an issue.

On your layout just leave some extra white space for the fastening area.

I had a sign up for over a year installed this way.

(For me there's less stress on the sign to install on site after posts are installed and squared up.)

I am not the only guy that believes 10 mil coro bows and is weak in the center.

the only time.. the ONLY time you would need to use a brace is if you use 3mm dibond.. and if that's the case, you're using the wrong substrate. 10mm coro and 1/2 inch mdo is just fine without a brace. Sorry addy.. no bro.. just no

Colorado it needs some kinda support in the center section to keep it from putting too much stress on the outside where it attaches in a high wind. I have had screws tear right through the coro before from high gusts of wind.

I have always just used a 3rd post but signguy's suggestion seems to be a bit less work while achieving the same result.

 

[WeekendDirectionals]

Wow I really appreciate all the input!

Lots of good ideas.
To avoid the holes with T legs as they only go up 5 weeks, and protecting the grass near it, etc...

My 18 x 24 supplier, Gene at Firesprint suggested I get the flutes horizontally if I am doing 4 feet high x 8 feet wide to avoid the "3rd" leg issue...

Thanks again for all the ideas!

 

[Locals Find!]

Not to argue with Gene as he is a good guy, but I don't believe the flutes go any other way on a sheet of coroplast when its turned on its side.

Every sheet I order has flutes vertically when measured 4 feet wide x 8 foot high and horizontally when its measured 8 feet wide by 4 feet high.

 

[grafixemporium]

We don't do them often, but when we do stick 4x8's in the ground this is how we build them. Route a 1" deep channel down the middle of each 4x4 and 2x4. Stick your substrate in there and pop some coated deck screws in to secure it all. These particular signs are built using 1/2' ply. However you can do the same exact thing with alumacor or dibond. The 2x4's don't really add much of anything to the overall cost and the finished product is rigid and looks really nice.

 

[WeekendDirectionals]

We don't do them often, but when we do stick 4x8's in the ground this is how we build them. Route a 1" deep channel down the middle of each 4x4 and 2x4. Stick your substrate in there and pop some coated deck screws in to secure it all. These particular signs are built using 1/2' ply. However you can do the same exact thing with alumacor or dibond. The 2x4's don't really add much of anything to the overall cost and the finished product is rigid and looks really nice.

Very nice, my wife will love yours .. in another life she was probably an Amish carpenter ... thanks for pics!

is the wood in your State Farm pic just natural (untreated)? It looks good, not as green as treated lumber usually does.

 

[Techman]

If your going 8 feet wide x 4 high you have to brace it. You take anything that wide and with that much surface area only braced on the sides. Its going to fail bad. Its just not strong enough by itself sitting in the open.

I've done dozons of 4x8 10 mil coro signs with two 4x4 posts.. Not one failed.
Using fender washers and the right amount of screws and its fine.

 

[2B]

I've done dozons of 4x8 10 mil coro signs with two 4x4 posts.. Not one failed.
Using fender washers and the right amount of screws and its fine.

+1
for Cor-Plast signs proper washers are a must and no skimping on the screws

 

[grafixemporium]

Very nice, my wife will love yours .. in another life she was probably an Amish carpenter ... thanks for pics!

is the wood in your State Farm pic just natural (untreated)? It looks good, not as green as treated lumber usually does.

The State Farm one is rough cut cedar.

 

[WeekendDirectionals]

+1
for Cor-Plast signs proper washers are a must and no skimping on the screws

On my lot signs I buy untreated 4x4's as it is cheaper and I figure better for the planet, plus they want them painted anyway. If they can't sell a house before a painted 4 x 4 decomposes they have a bigger problem than my 4x4.


On my "lot marking" signs I've been using 1 inch fender screws which I paint white.... btw on the topic of screws I've found drywall screws really bore into the word great, does anyone know why the drywall screw's box says don't use on treated lumber?

 

[WeekendDirectionals]

The State Farm one is rough cut cedar.

It looks great. :U Rock:

 

[ThinkRight]

On my lot signs I buy untreated 4x4's as it is cheaper and I figure better for the planet, plus they want them painted anyway. If they can't sell a house before a painted 4 x 4 decomposes they have a bigger problem than my 4x4.


On my "lot marking" signs I've been using 1 inch fender screws which I paint white.... btw on the topic of screws I've found drywall screws really bore into the word great, does anyone know why the drywall screw's box says don't use on treated lumber?

Treated lumber has chemicals that will oxidize the un-treated screw failing them sooner and to keep people from getting the cheap screws for the outdoor decks that they were not intended for.
/remember....you can't fix stupid

 

[MikePro]

+1 to untreated lumber. Spend the extra bux you'll save on a case of beer, for me