• I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...

attaching ACM to steel frame

tulsagraphics

New Member
Hi all!

I'm attaching 4x8 sheets of ACM to this double-sided steel frame (recessed). The frame has since been primed/painted black.

As you can see, there's plenty to screw to, but the client would like to keep the # of fasteners to a minimum (for aesthetics).

What type of adhesive would be suitable for ACM <-> painted steel?
 

Attachments

  • 1729196417834.png
    1729196417834.png
    2.6 MB · Views: 52

CanuckSigns

Active Member
I would use VHB tape and try to convince the client to allow you to put 2 small screws in the top corners, painted to Match the background, no one will ever see them.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Put two more uprights in there and use proper screws. Over time, no tape is gonna hold a 4 x 8 in that set up...... not professionally. Ya need about 12 physical fasteners to do it right.... or go home.

Don't matter what the client wants, it's what is needed is the final answer.

Also, I'd use 6mm.
 

JBurton

Signtologist
Put two more uprights in there and use proper screws. Over time, no tape is gonna hold a 4 x 8 in that set up...... not professionally. Ya need about 12 physical fasteners to do it right.... or go home.
Eh, I'd let them get away with 8 screws and only one additional upright, as long as they face both sides. This will dramatically reduce the load of a face being blown out, faces getting blown in on a cabinet with a lip is far less likely. Now a cross wind sucking it out in the middle of tornado alley is another story, but that looks like a church, and tornadoes fall under acts of god, so they'll be fine...
 

Texas_Signmaker

Very Active Signmaker
Do NOT use a single sheet of 3mm. If using one sheet, do 6mm. Paint the fastener heads and small washers to match background. If you evenly space them every 2' it won't be an eyesore. If you have a solid backer board, you can VHB the hell out of it and stick it to that.
 

tulsagraphics

New Member
Actually I do have 6mm Alumalite on hand too. (lettering hasn’t been applied yet) No doubt it would be stronger.

Do you think additional supports would be necessary with Alumalite? Difference in cost for upgrading to Alumalite should be cheaper than hiring a welder to add supports.

Note: it's a double-sided sign (2 separate faces, 1 on each side of a 2" thick frame)
 

Attachments

  • 1729209763100.png
    1729209763100.png
    2.3 MB · Views: 21
Last edited:

somcalmetim

New Member
If money is no object you could install a 6mm sheet of ACM or outdoor plywood with lots of countersunk screws/bolts on each side as structure then VHB a nice sheet of 3mm ACM overtop with your graphics showing no visible screws at all. Note: assuing the VHB sign stays in place it will likely destroy the sign if you ever want to take it down but could likely be face wrapped again in place if they need to rebrand.
 
Last edited:

Texas_Signmaker

Very Active Signmaker
Actually I do have 6mm Alumalite on hand too. (lettering hasn’t been applied yet) No doubt it would be stronger.

Do you think additional supports would be necessary with Alumalite? Difference in cost for upgrading to Alumalite should be cheaper than hiring a welder to add supports.

Note: it's a double-sided sign (2 separate faces, 1 on each side of a 2" thick frame)
If you're using two sheets of 6mm I wouldn't worry about any supports. You could do one 6mm sheet and sandwich it with angle around the edges on the open side and it would be fine too. Don't forget to bring something to nip the corners so they don't catch on the welds.
 

tulsagraphics

New Member
If you're using two sheets of 6mm I wouldn't worry about any supports. You could do one 6mm sheet and sandwich it with angle around the edges on the open side and it would be fine too. Don't forget to bring something to nip the corners so they don't catch on the welds.
Right on. No worries about the welds. The inner frame dimensions are 96.5 x 48.5, giving a 1/4" gap on all sides. ;)
 

Ryze Signs

New Member
If you could fill in the space between the faces with a cheap substrate such as wood or foam you could laminate the whole thing together and use no fasters. You would essentially be creating your own composite panel sandwiched around the frame. This would also stiffen your faces so they won't flex in the wind. Lords adhesive or a urethane such as gorilla glue would be my adhesives of choice. Polystyrene foam would be my filler. You'd be shocked at how sturdy this would be. Just google structural insulated panels.
 
Top