backlit adhesive film

[fresh]

What material are you printing on for backlit exterior graphics?

We try to always use cut vinyl on light boxes, but this job needs to be printed. We are not retrofitting the existing structure to use flexfaces or other systems.

The last time we did a similar job, we used Arlon DPF6500 and it worked well. That being said, its pretty pricey. If there is something out there that works as well but was maybe slightly less expensive, this is the job I'd like to try it out with. Eco-solvent printable please.

 

[ams]

I've used Orajet 3850 for 9 years and no problems yet.

 

[TimToad]

What material are you printing on for backlit exterior graphics?

We try to always use cut vinyl on light boxes, but this job needs to be printed. We are not retrofitting the existing structure to use flexfaces or other systems.

The last time we did a similar job, we used Arlon DPF6500 and it worked well. That being said, its pretty pricey. If there is something out there that works as well but was maybe slightly less expensive, this is the job I'd like to try it out with. Eco-solvent printable please.

We've had good luck with this: AVERY DENNISON MPI 2050

 

[MikePro]

cast is always nice, i use the arlon6500 as well. But I've been known to slum-it with cheap trans. on occasion
good options include fellers' solvexTV (which i think has a tint of yellow/offwhite to it) and grimco's briteline trans. Have used both in the past without issue.

 

[fresh]

We've had good luck with this: AVERY DENNISON MPI 2050

Awesome. When I searched for translucent film this one didn't come up, thanks for the suggestion.

What do you laminate it with?

 

[TimToad]

Awesome. When I searched for translucent film this one didn't come up, thanks for the suggestion.

What do you laminate it with?

If using new Lexan, usually Oracal 215 or cast. If the client is cheap and wants us to reuse an old face and doesn't expect long term durability, we'll use Oracal 210.

We always warn ALL clients that expectations of durability and colorfastness have entered a new phase of climate change induced uncertainty and unless a sign, face, graphics are installed on a north face of a building sheltered from the sun, manufacturer's longevity claims are to be taken with a grain of salt.

 

[Pixels Are Bad Mmmkay?]

We like Orajet 3850 w/ Oraguard 290 laminate.

 

[Pixels Are Bad Mmmkay?]

I've used Orajet 3850 for 9 years and no problems yet.

Have you seen any sign faces you've made with 3850 that are going on 8 or 9 years old? If so, how are they holding up?

 

[ams]

Have you seen any sign faces you've made with 3850 that are going on 8 or 9 years old? If so, how are they holding up?

Oldest that I've seen from local signs is 5 years still looks good. There is one about 7 years old, sign is still up, but it's an hour away, not going to go check it out. Overprinting (double strike) is always best on translucent.

Also everyone beware of Avery, they top coat their translucent vinyl. I tried it once and after I laminated it, the laminate fell right off, so I called Avery and the rep said they top coat so that no laminate is required.
Never used them since.

 

[bannertime]

Arlong 4500G Clear, though I just recalled having a failure in the field I need to go investigate.

I've thought about this, and have done something similar. We did a contour cut graphic on clear mounted to new polycarbonate. In about two years the clear had yellowed enough to be visible when driving by.

 

[Pixels Are Bad Mmmkay?]

Overprinting (double strike) is always best on translucent.

When the client's budget allows, we do two prints, one for the first surface and one for the second surface printed in reverse. I've never been a fan of double striking.

 

[fresh]

When the client's budget allows, we do two prints, one for the first surface and one for the second surface printed in reverse. I've never been a fan of double striking.

we usually like to do it this way, too. But we're replacing all the panels in a big shopping plaza, and there are multiple tenants on each face. If you saw what they currently look like, you'd keep it as simple as possible to change out tenants too.

 

[fresh]

If using new Lexan, usually Oracal 215 or cast. If the client is cheap and wants us to reuse an old face and doesn't expect long term durability, we'll use Oracal 210.

We always warn ALL clients that expectations of durability and colorfastness have entered a new phase of climate change induced uncertainty and unless a sign, face, graphics are installed on a north face of a building sheltered from the sun, manufacturer's longevity claims are to be taken with a grain of salt.

The faces are new. Thanks for the info.

And yes, I always try to steer people in the direction of cut vinyl for these jobs, but this is a big plaza with national franchises. I'm not doing cut vinyl for 8 different logos.

 

[TimToad]

we usually like to do it this way, too. But we're replacing all the panels in a big shopping plaza, and there are multiple tenants on each face. If you saw what they currently look like, you'd keep it as simple as possible to change out tenants too.

That's why we try to keep these kinds of projects as uncomplicated as possible. A full coverage single decal on a good quality translucent media with a decent laminate an all attempts to keep the messages direct, simple and to the point without adding a whole bunch of special effects and such. If its corporate chain logos, you reproduce them from good artwork and move on.

 

[OADesign]

We like Orajet 3850 w/ Oraguard 290 laminate.

+1 for this combo. We also combine with Avery 1080Z matte if a different finish is needed. Have not hae one issue/failure since I started using these combos.

 

[ColoPrinthead]

We've had good luck with this: AVERY DENNISON MPI 2050

What profile do you use for 2050? I used the generic backlit one that comes on the Latex machines with Onyx and had 20 4x10ft faces show grey instead of black when lit up (Would have been nice to have time to have tested everything before I ran them all, but I did not). I am not looking forward to stripping them and need to figure out what happened. It would be nice if I can 2050 to work for me and I have not heard back from Avery yet (I need to follow up with them).

I managed to get a few good signs with our old Caldera setup, but that was printing to a L360 using profiles that were for the 25500 ink set.

 

[Dan360]

You need a rich black to stop the light, we do most of our backlit on white acrylic with clear vinyl. I usually do 40/30/30/100 @20 pass.

 

[TimToad]

What profile do you use for 2050? I used the generic backlit one that comes on the Latex machines with Onyx and had 20 4x10ft faces show grey instead of black when lit up (Would have been nice to have time to have tested everything before I ran them all, but I did not). I am not looking forward to stripping them and need to figure out what happened. It would be nice if I can 2050 to work for me and I have not heard back from Avery yet (I need to follow up with them).

I managed to get a few good signs with our old Caldera setup, but that was printing to a L360 using profiles that were for the 25500 ink set.

We use the standard backlit translucent film profile from VersaWorks and double print. Yes, the prints can look a tad darker in daylight, but to me the difference is small enough that when they light up properly, it's worth the extra ink and slower print speed. We do these tripod kiosks for a concert venue client that has four of them which hold 9 24"x36" light boxes each and I wish i had a photo from the last time I was there for a show after dark to show how great these things look coming off our 10 year Roland on the Avery Dennison media. They are so rich, sharp and nicely illuminated they practically jump out of the boxes.

 

[ColoPrinthead]

You need a rich black to stop the light, we do most of our backlit on white acrylic with clear vinyl. I usually do 40/30/30/100 @20 pass.

I have some more testing to do, but I don't see much difference on any of the rich blacks I have tried setting the color in the RIP, I have even gone full retard with 100/100/100/100. I guess I will just plan on using Caldera the next time I run these. I have no issues with regular non-adhesive backlit, but I don't like how they sometimes sag between the plex and diffuser sheet.

 

[Rollout]

I have some more testing to do, but I don't see much difference on any of the rich blacks I have tried setting the color in the RIP, I have even gone full retard with 100/100/100/100. I guess I will just plan on using Caldera the next time I run these. I have no issues with regular non-adhesive backlit, but I don't like how they sometimes sag between the plex and diffuser sheet.

I get very black blacks by assigning the black as a spot color, then going in flexi and printing that spot color through just the K head. 16 pass 200%, Haven’t tried it for backlit but is good on clear in windows.