Best illuminated sign face vinyl for no bubbles

[signlords]

We outsourced our large print up until about a year ago. Usually from signs365 or b2. We bought an ecosolvent printer finally and I have noticed that the vinyl I have been using (I went cheap for my first roll) I believe is whatever signworld america sells. It's the white vinyl for backlit instead of crystal clear so the color really pops with minimal effort, however I have noticed when applying it to acrylic I have a much more difficult time avoiding bubbles. Typically applying on a large flat table with the big squeegee. Are there any air release or etc vinyls for eco solvent printer and acrylic backlit application that are best?

 

[TimToad]

I don't know about air release translucent, but we've had really good luck with Metamark.

Its a calendered PVC and we usually laminate it with Oracal 210.

We apply by hand and use RapidTac.

 

[J Hill Designs]

wet app to acrylic or polycarb here as well

 

[ams]

I use Oracal 3850 and rarely get any bubbles. Be sure to wait after you remove the protective cover from the substrate to degas. Usually 30 - 45 minutes is good, no less.
Always laminate it and always double print it. Why use an overprint? If you don't all translucents generally give a washed out look, like faded. This way it stays it's true color.

I don't trust the big squeegee, use a regular felt squeegee and you shouldn't have any problems.

 

[bob]

The best translucent vinyl for bubble free application is most any vinyl and a good application technique.

Bubbles are far more a function of a dubious application technique than any characteristic of substrate or vinyl. If you know what you're about you should be able to lay down any sort of vinyl on any flat substrate with no bubbles. Bubbles are almost always the fault of the operator, not the materials.

 

[Techman]

There is no magic vinyl. And there is no other way to avoid blisters than to apply the product the right way.

I have applied hundreds of footage of trans vinyl. It looks like paint when done. If done right.

It takes practice

 

[signlords]

I know there isn't a magic vinyl. ;-) I appreciate the input, we did recently switch substrate vendors and possibly did not wait 30-45 minutes after peeling the protective covering. I just know applying the vinyl the exact way as I have always done was producing worse results. Thought maybe materials could play a small part. Thanks everyone!

 

[boxerbay]

using a laminator is best.

 

[MikePro]

wet apply for sure, big fan of rapidtac for aggressive bonds & homebrew soap&water for large-field vinyl graphics I know I'll be removing in a few years.

 

[Tfloraditch]

wet apply for sure, big fan of rapidtac for aggressive bonds & homebrew soap&water for large-field vinyl graphics I know I'll be removing in a few years.

I get a lot of opinions on what the "correct " application method is. On large sign faces I have been applying 3M™ Scotchcal Translucent Graphic Film Series 3630 in poly-carbonate faces. I am using the home brew fluid of windshield washer fluid and baby shampoo. Tried using laminator and hand method and still get too many wrinkles and bubbles. I am sure the devil is in the details. Any suggestions?

 

[henryz]

You said you are using a big squeegee, for your first pass it works but you still need to use a regular small squeegee like 3m gold to remove all of your water bubbles if you don't have a laminator.

 

[Billct2]

"home brew fluid of windshield washer fluid and baby shampoo"
Try Rapid tac

 

[GB2]

As much as I like the Big Squeegee, it will definitely leave bubbles in a translucent print application. You should find a different method.

 

[Tfloraditch]

"home brew fluid of windshield washer fluid and baby shampoo"
Try Rapid tac

I tried that. It works well on the smaller stuff. I never have problems with smaller applications, so I am trying anything. The home brew works as well as the Rapid Tac in all applications. Sometimes better. I just think there is a detail I am skipping in the process.