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Best shop set up for large print runs?

depps74

New Member
I'm starting to get larger and larger LF print orders. I like to line up my tiles to make sure they are matching. I currently do this on the floor because my tiles range between 50-55" so on the table just doesn't work as my table is 60" x 12'. I'm thinking to get clamps and clamp prints at the top of the walls in my shop and line them up that way. Then roll them up and store them. Curious if anyone out there has a system for large runs by which you can check your tiles and keep things moving in an efficient manner. I also just love to hear and see peoples shop set ups.
 

victor bogdanov

Active Member
Do you not trust the prints coming out of your printer or your tile set up process? I print lots tiled wall murals and can't imagine checking having to check for tiles matching.
 

GC Decor

Super Printer
We use Onyx for our rip software and we setup all of our tiling there. We do a lot of printed metal panels and never had any issues with matching. We sample check but lining up 4’x8’ panels on the floor would be a mess. You can also create references points on the edges for measuring - most softwares offer this in some form.
 

CanuckSigns

Active Member
What printer do you run? I've heard horror stories of the HP latex printers having inconsistent panel lengths, but I can count on 1 hand the number of times our panels haven't matched up on our epson over the last 5 years. And most of the times it was user error, mostly overloading the rip PC while a job is printing.
 
I always set up my files in illustrator and save as PDF, the artboards are your tiles, the bleed is your overlap, save as pdf send it to RIP, done. I don't like setting it up in RIP as I worked with many brands and don't want to learn a new one every time there's a new printer. Plus you can print your PDF's on your desktop printer to double check if overlap or overall look is ok.
 

depps74

New Member
Do you not trust the prints coming out of your printer or your tile set up process? I print lots tiled wall murals and can't imagine checking having to check for tiles matching.
I used to, but I've had issues with tiles being a 1/8- 1/2inch off. There are numerous threads on this topic but mostly seems to stem from take up reel tension heat and bad luck. There is also a HP video on it. Do you have a HP, I'm thinking of getting an Epson for my larger jobs
 

depps74

New Member
I always set up my files in illustrator and save as PDF, the artboards are your tiles, the bleed is your overlap, save as pdf send it to RIP, done. I don't like setting it up in RIP as I worked with many brands and don't want to learn a new one every time there's a new printer. Plus you can print your PDF's on your desktop printer to double check if overlap or overall look is ok.
I should know this, but didn't know you can set a bleed in illustrator?
 

depps74

New Member
We use Onyx for our rip software and we setup all of our tiling there. We do a lot of printed metal panels and never had any issues with matching. We sample check but lining up 4’x8’ panels on the floor would be a mess. You can also create references points on the edges for measuring - most softwares offer this in some form.
thank you this is very helpful.
 
It is so easy to tile in RIP that for the sake of time I don't understand why anyone would do it manually.
If you can automate it, 0 seconds to tile, overlap, cutting marks. If not, less than a minute to do all that.
Doing it "manually" takes 2 seconds more, it's really just drawing the artboards everything else is just as automated, overlap, cut marks etc. The benefit is that you'll have a set up file on the PC, ready to print or reprint if needed while you'll need to delete from the rip sooner or later. The other thing is that the RIP pc is a dedicated one, and I don't fancy switching seats :)
 

victor bogdanov

Active Member
It is so easy to tile in RIP that for the sake of time I don't understand why anyone would do it manually.
If you can automate it, 0 seconds to tile, overlap, cutting marks. If not, less than a minute to do all that.

this is how I do it in illustrator. Template makes it so easy. When I had onyx training we went through tiling in the rip and in the end the illustrator templates end up being more efficient for what I'm doing

single panel reprints or printing entire set of panels weeks/month later is a breeze
Capture.JPG
 
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this is how I do it in illustrator. Template makes it so easy. When I had onyx training we went through tiling in the rip and in the end the illustrator templates end up being more efficient for what I'm doing

single panel reprints or printing entire set of panels weeks/month later is a breeze

You don't need templates, your bleed is the overlap if you select it when saving your PDF

Untitled-4.jpg
 

balstestrat

Problem Solver
this is how I do it in illustrator. Template makes it so easy. When I had onyx training we went through tiling in the rip and in the end the illustrator templates end up being more efficient for what I'm doing

single panel reprints or printing entire set of panels weeks/month later is a breeze
There is very little use info around about illu templates. So I don't know about it.
If you now have 10x15 that you have to tile you use that template. Then if you next have a 18x5 can you again use the same template? Is it size variable so it will create or remove tiles based on the size?

Because what you show can be done automatically in Onyx for example. Just open the file and it's done. Nothing else needed. Or drop it to a hotfolder and if you have automatic print turned on you don't even have to touch onyx with your finger.
It simply can't be easier using templates, I can't believe it.

How do you then add cutcontour to it? Does it also come automatic from the template?
 
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victor bogdanov

Active Member
There is very little use info around about illu templates. So I don't know about it.
If you now have 10x15 that you have to tile you use that template. Then if you next have a 18x5 can you again use the same template? Is it size variable so it will create or remove tiles based on the size?
Different sizes are no problem. You just drop the image into the template and save the artboards that you need to pdf. Size is easy to adjust

Contour cut lines, registration marks etc can also be in the template. I'm waiting on delivery on a Colex and I've had knowledgeable people tell there are big shops that use illustrator templates to set up their cutting and registration marks. Right now we are trimming the panels manually

I'm printing (5) 60" x 100ft rolls per day this way containing 10-15 walls. All are custom sizes and takes about 1hr to get all the files prepped in illustrator (including adjusting the design to the needed size)
 

balstestrat

Problem Solver
Different sizes are no problem. You just drop the image into the template and save the artboards that you need to pdf. Size is easy to adjust

Contour cut lines, registration marks etc can also be in the template. I'm waiting on delivery on a Colex and I've had knowledgeable people tell there are big shops that use illustrator templates to set up their cutting and registration marks. Right now we are trimming the panels manually

I'm printing (5) 60" x 100ft rolls per day this way containing 10-15 walls. All are custom sizes and takes about 1hr to get all the files prepped in illustrator (including adjusting the design to the needed size)
Alright well everyone to their own I guess.
But I do think if someone set it up proper for you, you might not want to go back.
 

McDonald Signs

McDonald Signs & Graphics
I do something very similar to Victor when I set up mural prints in CorelDraw 7. I just create multiple rectangles the overall size I need for the mural (Each rectangle the widest width my 54in Roland will print) Line them up in a row horizontally with each one overlapping the one next to it 1/2" or 1" whatever overlap I want. Then I "Powerclip" the ENTIRE mural Image into each rectangle and then open each rectangle to slide the mural left or right in each one till all of the images inside each rectangle match and all of the rectangles look a complete mural with nothing off or not looking correct or matching up. Then I print each rectangle. Makes it real easy if you need to go back and print one sheet if needed
 

depps74

New Member
There is very little use info around about illu templates. So I don't know about it.
If you now have 10x15 that you have to tile you use that template. Then if you next have a 18x5 can you again use the same template? Is it size variable so it will create or remove tiles based on the size?

Because what you show can be done automatically in Onyx for example. Just open the file and it's done. Nothing else needed. Or drop it to a hotfolder and if you have automatic print turned on you don't even have to touch onyx with your finger.
It simply can't be easier using templates, I can't believe it.

How do you then add cutcontour to it? Does it also come automatic from the template?
I agree. I love the way onyx is so easy. Its also great when you need tiles at a certain width. I wouldn't trust myself to do it in AI but its nice to know the bleed procedure for other stuff. The only thing I wish onyx did was provide a tile map so on the install you have a reference.
 
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