Boat graphics removal/install

[gnubler]

I'm bidding on a job to redo the graphics on this boat (see picture) and need some advice. The original vinyl is flaking off, so it all needs to be removed and a similar design installed. I want to go with cut vinyl only, a metallic blue and metallic silver (no metallized chrome and no printing). The customer is okay with that as long as the swoosh design is somewhat similar. Is Oracal 951 a good product choice for boat graphics?

I've never done a removal on a boat before - how do I approach this to bid it correctly? I have a feeling it's going to take more than a heat gun and a scraper. How do you handle oxidation/discoloration showing? I'm going to look at the boat this week to take some measurements and check out the condition of the existing vinyl. It's in a garage, not on the water.

Any tips on taking measurements to recreate the existing swoosh shapes as closely as possible? I told them it won't be exactly the same, but pretty close.

 

[visual800]

first off metallic vinyl not a good choice especially on watercraft...nonetheless if this were my job I would take pic of boat side view , straight on and replicate stripes on computer and then size them out to match existing.

As far removal I use razor and alcohol as with everything . I can also buff the area under the stripes if there is fading. Fiberglass is soft if you have never removed tell them to hire someone experienced to do it, you can cut into it pretty easy

 

[rjssigns]

Could also try steam for removal.

If you need to make a template here's what we did. Taped plotter paper to the hull and went over that with crayon. Took the template back to the shop and struck a 12" grid over it.
Took a photo and scaled it in Illustrator.

You may not need to make a template since I made some for a Sea Ray Sundeck. Never got a chance to use them because of Covid. Can't remember the year of the boat but they should work.
Also have a bunch of comps. PM me if you're interested.

Simple way to do the graphics since there will be a ghost line in the gel coat. "Trace" the ghost line with wrap cut. Install wrap film over wrap cut. Pull line to cut film then seal edges. Done.

 

[Billct2]

Use the best cast vinyl you can get. That's what the boat manufacturers use at the factory so it will hold up as well as the original. I'm doing a boat job right now and I won't do the removal.
To get done right it will need a good buffing after removal and I leave that to the yard or a boat detailer.

 

[gnubler]

Thanks for the tips. As far as "the best" cast vinyl - any suggestions? Like I said I want to do cut vinyl, no print/cut. There is no one else in the area who does this, that's why I've been asked to bid. Best way to learn is to just do it (without unintended consequences).

RJS - are you referring to knifeless tape? Does that work for the curved parts?

What sort of equipment for steam removal? I've seen that mentioned elsewhere on the forum, like a wallpaper steamer?

 

[Billct2]

I use Gerber (3M) 220 or Arlon 2100. I can do jobs like this as a Thermal print but prefer all cut vinyl if possible. If I do a print I will overlaminate with clear. Yes. wallpaper steamers are what people use. But like I said personally I prefer to have the boat prepped by others. Nothing worse that getting into it and realizing you don't have the right tools or materials to complete the job., especially off site. Around here there are mobile boat detailers that could take care of it.

 

[decalman]

This is an easy one. 1st take straight on level pictures of it.
To remove vinyl, get a 13$ scraper from Orielys Auto part. DON'T GET ANY OTHER. Even if one looks similar. The o'Reilly razor on a pole, is angled perfectly. Heat up decal to loosen the glue.
It'll come right off. Mineral spirits is a safe glue removal.

I'd vector draw those simple graphics using the belzier tool and cut the near exact thing. Why worry about ghosting when it'll be covered up?
For tracing lessons go to YouTube

 

[DaveD]

We do hundreds of removals like this. Our process is as follows:
Heat gun and Yellotools orange scrapper
Rapid remover and scrap some more.
Denatured Alcohol for clean up.
If there is oxidation try Ghost Off or you may have to hire a detailer to wet sand it.

Things not to use:
Eraser wheels. These can burn into the fiberglass
Razor blade that are not Stainless Steel. Do not use a blade if you don't have a steady hand. It is very easy to cut into the hull.

I would estimate 6 to 8 hours to be safe.

We use Gerber 220 most of the time. Your other option is to use Universal and combine it with their stripe tape. Upsell the customer and redo the striping on their trailer too.

 

[rjssigns]

Thanks for the tips. As far as "the best" cast vinyl - any suggestions? Like I said I want to do cut vinyl, no print/cut. There is no one else in the area who does this, that's why I've been asked to bid. Best way to learn is to just do it (without unintended consequences).

RJS - are you referring to knifeless tape? Does that work for the curved parts?

What sort of equipment for steam removal? I've seen that mentioned elsewhere on the forum, like a wallpaper steamer?

Yups, knifeless tape. This one for contours/corners: 3M™ Design Line Knifeless Tape KTS-DL1
Wallpaper steamer is what I use. Wagner 705, paid around 40 bucks for it.
If you are in an area without electricity or don't want to trip over cords I use a Ridgid Cordless Heat Gun. Especially nice when I'm working on a boat that's in the water. Not willing to test that whole water/electricity thing.

 

[gnubler]

Thanks all for the great ideas here. The boat was jam packed in a storage building with other boats, I was barely able to squeeze in sideways to get measurements. I ended up tracing the old vinyl with plotter paper and will be patching it all together to make a cut file. I also got out of the removal and am letting their detailers handle it...a lot of the vinyl is looking cracked and sun baked.

Cordless heat gun is on my shopping list now, though. I didn't even know they existed.

 

[rjssigns]

Thanks all for the great ideas here. The boat was jam packed in a storage building with other boats, I was barely able to squeeze in sideways to get measurements. I ended up tracing the old vinyl with plotter paper and will be patching it all together to make a cut file. I also got out of the removal and am letting their detailers handle it...a lot of the vinyl is looking cracked and sun baked.

Cordless heat gun is on my shopping list now, though. I didn't even know they existed.

Yup, Ridgid is the only one worth it. Runs 30+ minutes on a charge of butane. Battery op ones last about 5 minutes. Running a resistance heater on battery power alone is brutal.
Keep checking the web and Home Depot for deals. I got mine for $109 delivered and it included a 5 amp hour battery. Battery alone is worth that.

 

[Billct2]

we have a great cordless heat gun...

 

[Mike Paul]

I use a Propane Benzomatic torch for 90% of vinyl removals, small jobs. You have to keep it moving fast at all times. I enjoy watching the PIA customers reaction that needs to hang around for small jobs when I hit his pickup doors with a flame...
Hate the wall paper steamer...
For larger removals, if you do that type of stuff look into a propane shrink wrap heat gun...Nice but pricey.