-
I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...
Brand New HP Latex 335 wont turn on
- Thread starter amw
- Start date
signage
i am still leaning towards a wiring error in the heter assembly, a cracked insulator, or an incredibly poor design for the heater not providing enough isolation
amw, you really should disconnect the two units and get the electrician to measure case to case, and then carefully check the control cable that connects the two units. (on the rolands, it is a mini din plug, i think)
i am still leaning towards a wiring error in the heter assembly, a cracked insulator, or an incredibly poor design for the heater not providing enough isolation
amw, you really should disconnect the two units and get the electrician to measure case to case, and then carefully check the control cable that connects the two units. (on the rolands, it is a mini din plug, i think)
Steenland
Old Member
I have a new L365 and had to install buck/boost transformers to meet HP's site prep specs. There is one on each circuit, and they are installed AFTER the breakers, and BEFORE the outlets (see photo).
My electrician, though very experienced, had never installed buck/boost transformers before, so he called the manufacturer to get some clarification, and also consulted with another veteran electrician.
I have had no problems so far with the circuits or the printer.
Attachments
https://www.amazon.ca/YaeCCC-5000Wa...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
I would buy one of these and test it on a normal outlet. I wouldn't use one for the long term, but this should allow you to power the machine on with a regular 120V outlet.
When we bought a used 560 from an auction house that didnt have 240v, we bought one and brought it in... we could boot up the printer and run some tests on it. theoretically it has the power to operate the curing chamber close to "full time" since it says it can do 2K watts continously... but I wouldn't trust it for prolonged use.
At least with this, if it still trips the breaker you can tell your supplier it's not the newly installed wiring
I would buy one of these and test it on a normal outlet. I wouldn't use one for the long term, but this should allow you to power the machine on with a regular 120V outlet.
When we bought a used 560 from an auction house that didnt have 240v, we bought one and brought it in... we could boot up the printer and run some tests on it. theoretically it has the power to operate the curing chamber close to "full time" since it says it can do 2K watts continously... but I wouldn't trust it for prolonged use.
At least with this, if it still trips the breaker you can tell your supplier it's not the newly installed wiring
I appreciate everyone's help!
Here is the most recent update:
So i did what anyone would do i complained on Facebook about the situation. A old friend of about 40 years who is an electrician and works for the power company commented that he would come check it out.
He tested basically everything, he agreed with the other electricians that this is not an issue with our power. He thinks it is related to the curing unit.
He flat out said to tell HP that there is absolutely no way there is anything wrong with the power here, he tested everything and if they want he will put it in a letter for them on DTE (power co) letterhead.
The techs today pointed out to me they have over 10 years of experience combined. Well just 3 of the 4 electricians have combined over 80 years...so i think they might know something.
The techs in not so many words said i should think about getting a new electrician, when i reminded him 3 have looked at it. (now 4)
Also i got a shipment notification that HP is sending more parts. I have not heard anything from them since they escalated it to their 3rd level (the last). I am assuming they have some ideas since they are sending parts. Based on the weights i assume none are a curing unit...which i asked them to test and they said they cant test it if the power wont stay on...i would think you would test for resistance, or maybe continuity to the frame (which would be the direct short the electricians keep telling me they think it has) to see if that is sending power to the frame when the curing unit is plugged in? idk i am just trying to come up with a logical explanation.
Grimco is also "checking into it" and will get back to me tomorrow with one of their techs to see if they can figure it out.
Here is the most recent update:
So i did what anyone would do i complained on Facebook about the situation. A old friend of about 40 years who is an electrician and works for the power company commented that he would come check it out.
He tested basically everything, he agreed with the other electricians that this is not an issue with our power. He thinks it is related to the curing unit.
He flat out said to tell HP that there is absolutely no way there is anything wrong with the power here, he tested everything and if they want he will put it in a letter for them on DTE (power co) letterhead.
The techs today pointed out to me they have over 10 years of experience combined. Well just 3 of the 4 electricians have combined over 80 years...so i think they might know something.
The techs in not so many words said i should think about getting a new electrician, when i reminded him 3 have looked at it. (now 4)
Also i got a shipment notification that HP is sending more parts. I have not heard anything from them since they escalated it to their 3rd level (the last). I am assuming they have some ideas since they are sending parts. Based on the weights i assume none are a curing unit...which i asked them to test and they said they cant test it if the power wont stay on...i would think you would test for resistance, or maybe continuity to the frame (which would be the direct short the electricians keep telling me they think it has) to see if that is sending power to the frame when the curing unit is plugged in? idk i am just trying to come up with a logical explanation.
Grimco is also "checking into it" and will get back to me tomorrow with one of their techs to see if they can figure it out.
Christian @ 2CT Media
Active Member
Welcome to the HP way. Twice on various latex HP has thrown more money in parts and labor than the machine was sold for new, all ending up in new machines shipped to us.
I'm sorry you are experiencing this, all I can say is be a pit bull and don't unlock your jaws until you get a favorable outcome from both HP and Grimco. This is clearly a faulty machine and HP loves to hide behind the curtain of dirty power.
I'm sorry you are experiencing this, all I can say is be a pit bull and don't unlock your jaws until you get a favorable outcome from both HP and Grimco. This is clearly a faulty machine and HP loves to hide behind the curtain of dirty power.
two thoughts
i would be curious if bigfish has ever herd of a problem like this.
not asking for a critique of the way this is bring handled, just if this type of issue has ever crossed his path
if you are ambitious i would remove 1 of the breakers from your panel & move it down 1 slot (a. 220 breaker is 2 110 brekers,, pinned together. moving it 1 slot down changes the phase of the voltage 180 degrees. this would have no effect on properly functioning equipment. if however we have some odd ground fault, your problem might disappear.
i have been troubleshooting issues of this type since the 1970's
it really is worth your time to give this a try, since, for some odd reason hp has dropped the ball
i would be curious if bigfish has ever herd of a problem like this.
not asking for a critique of the way this is bring handled, just if this type of issue has ever crossed his path
if you are ambitious i would remove 1 of the breakers from your panel & move it down 1 slot (a. 220 breaker is 2 110 brekers,, pinned together. moving it 1 slot down changes the phase of the voltage 180 degrees. this would have no effect on properly functioning equipment. if however we have some odd ground fault, your problem might disappear.
i have been troubleshooting issues of this type since the 1970's
it really is worth your time to give this a try, since, for some odd reason hp has dropped the ball
let me update my previous suggestion, pass it on to your electrician & have him do it
lets not give hp any reason for finger pointing
and just one stupid question
you mentioned that the electrician tried substituting a conventional breaker, when that breaker tripped, did it hum?
ok, make it two stupid questions (i really am on your side and would like to see you printing tomorrow). did he try the substitution on both of the original breakers? he could try it one at a time, with only one conventional breaker
lets not give hp any reason for finger pointing
and just one stupid question
you mentioned that the electrician tried substituting a conventional breaker, when that breaker tripped, did it hum?
ok, make it two stupid questions (i really am on your side and would like to see you printing tomorrow). did he try the substitution on both of the original breakers? he could try it one at a time, with only one conventional breaker
amw
if the transformers solve your problem, as they did with steenland,, i certainly won't get on my high horse telling you it isn't the right way to solve it.
i want to see you printing as soon as possible
ii do think after this is over, we should report this whole thing to Underwriters Laboratories.
HP is being lazy (or stupid, lets give credit where credit is due) with this whole issue, it is their problem to solve, not yours
if it truly is an issue of not being able to tolerate voltage well within the expected range, they should hire engineers capable of designing a protection circuit
if the transformers solve your problem, as they did with steenland,, i certainly won't get on my high horse telling you it isn't the right way to solve it.
i want to see you printing as soon as possible
ii do think after this is over, we should report this whole thing to Underwriters Laboratories.
HP is being lazy (or stupid, lets give credit where credit is due) with this whole issue, it is their problem to solve, not yours
if it truly is an issue of not being able to tolerate voltage well within the expected range, they should hire engineers capable of designing a protection circuit
GAC05
Quit buggin' me
If HP level 3 doesn't solve it, tell them you'll take it to level 4 on your end. It will involve a skid loader and a 15 yard roll off construction waste dumpster for the return shipping of the printer back to them.
I hope they get it fixed or get you a refund so you can buy something that does work..
I hope they get it fixed or get you a refund so you can buy something that does work..
i was wondering all day if there were any new developments
the disturbing part of this is that when the electrician substituted a 30 amp conventional breaker it still tripped
that is a damn sight different than one of these hair trigger things with all the safeties built in.
the disturbing part of this is that when the electrician substituted a 30 amp conventional breaker it still tripped
that is a damn sight different than one of these hair trigger things with all the safeties built in.
Notarealsignguy
Arial - it's almost helvetica
Put a 100 in it and see where the smoke comes from. That there will be your problem.
Really though, if they think it's shorted they should at least check it. Internal shorts sketch me out. I had an electric smoker that kept shutting off and tripping the GFCI. Thinking that it was the GFI, I plugged it into a regular outlet, tried to open the door and it lit me up.
Really though, if they think it's shorted they should at least check it. Internal shorts sketch me out. I had an electric smoker that kept shutting off and tripping the GFCI. Thinking that it was the GFI, I plugged it into a regular outlet, tried to open the door and it lit me up.
CanuckSigns
Active Member
I would be telling Grimco to send me a new printer. If a new machine is DOA there should be no trying to fix it, a new machine should be sent out right away.
If you bought a new refrigerator from home Depot and it didn't work out of the box, you wouldn't accept them sending out Tech's to swap out parts till it worked, they would send you a new fridge. This printer costs 10x what a fridge does (the manufacturing cost is probally the same though to be honest lol) so don't accept a faulty printer, demand it be exchanged for a new one.
If you bought a new refrigerator from home Depot and it didn't work out of the box, you wouldn't accept them sending out Tech's to swap out parts till it worked, they would send you a new fridge. This printer costs 10x what a fridge does (the manufacturing cost is probally the same though to be honest lol) so don't accept a faulty printer, demand it be exchanged for a new one.
Sorry for the late update:
It is printing now!
I had mistakenly said (in a prev. post) we tried regular breakers on both. We did, however not at the same time. The electricians had always said they thought it was the cgfi breakers or a short. HP kept insisting we use them though. The techs would not let us try it till HP told them that they know this has been an issue and that they just have the electricians swap the breakers to regular 20 amp. That WAS the problem. We asked HP about this on the 1st phone call and were told NO you have to use the breakers in the specs, not regular breakers. So the printer sat here for almost 3 weeks, had 2 techs come for a total of 9.5 hours each plus 3 hours travel, sent 200lbs of parts nextday air...for something they admitted they know can be an issue. We are still talking to HP, however we have not heard anything from Grimco since last week and we left a message with our rep to call us back on Friday so we can discuses things.
Glad it is working, have not gotten any training. The (3rd party) techs that came installed the ink and printheads, etc. Didn't show us much of anything. Said for the software just checkout youtube....then he left, printer was at 96% still and not done. He also set the wrong time zone, date, time, as well as did the initial set up telling the printer that it had backlite film in it (it was standard adhesive vinyl). I dont think any of that really matters as i was able to set everything correctly.
It is printing now!
I had mistakenly said (in a prev. post) we tried regular breakers on both. We did, however not at the same time. The electricians had always said they thought it was the cgfi breakers or a short. HP kept insisting we use them though. The techs would not let us try it till HP told them that they know this has been an issue and that they just have the electricians swap the breakers to regular 20 amp. That WAS the problem. We asked HP about this on the 1st phone call and were told NO you have to use the breakers in the specs, not regular breakers. So the printer sat here for almost 3 weeks, had 2 techs come for a total of 9.5 hours each plus 3 hours travel, sent 200lbs of parts nextday air...for something they admitted they know can be an issue. We are still talking to HP, however we have not heard anything from Grimco since last week and we left a message with our rep to call us back on Friday so we can discuses things.
Glad it is working, have not gotten any training. The (3rd party) techs that came installed the ink and printheads, etc. Didn't show us much of anything. Said for the software just checkout youtube....then he left, printer was at 96% still and not done. He also set the wrong time zone, date, time, as well as did the initial set up telling the printer that it had backlite film in it (it was standard adhesive vinyl). I dont think any of that really matters as i was able to set everything correctly.
CanuckSigns
Active Member
Glad you got it working in the end, sucks that HP dropped the ball by giving you bad info.
In regards to training, I guess Grimco will need to send someone out still, but to be honest between YouTube and this forum you will learn more than a tech can teach you in a day, keep in mind the techs don't use the machines on a daily basis, so usually they don't know much from an operational point of view.
In regards to training, I guess Grimco will need to send someone out still, but to be honest between YouTube and this forum you will learn more than a tech can teach you in a day, keep in mind the techs don't use the machines on a daily basis, so usually they don't know much from an operational point of view.
Steenland
Old Member
Glad you are up and running! I hope the frustration ends here!
My experience with Grimco was quite different. Keep in mind that the techs are not experienced trainers. I received one-on-one training via Zoom with Grimco's Demo Center Technician, Neil McNamara. He has a lot of experience in an actual commercial shop, and I found him to be knowledgeable and helpful.
My experience with Grimco was quite different. Keep in mind that the techs are not experienced trainers. I received one-on-one training via Zoom with Grimco's Demo Center Technician, Neil McNamara. He has a lot of experience in an actual commercial shop, and I found him to be knowledgeable and helpful.