-
I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...
bubbles
- Thread starter Jefff
- Start date
Broome Signs
New Member
bob
It's better to have two hands than one glove.
Bubbles are a product of bad application technique. Most often the result of letting the vinyl contact the substrate without being put there by the squeegee. The quality of the vinyl, the timing of removing the mask, or the state of the tides are not factors.
mark galoob
New Member
The vinyl gods here on this forum will say it’s all technique...I’ve been applying vinyl for years...sometimes I nail it and it goes on flawless. Sometimes it is fubar and not salvageable. Humidity plays a big part but usually the calmer I am the better it installs.
Dust plays a big part Too. And if the surface isn't perfectly flat... Any imperfections will show and can cause bubbles.
Quality of vinyl plays a role in a different way....you can get air egress vinyl where if there is a bubble, you can release.the air and push it out. If there's dust under that won't work though.
Quality of vinyl plays a role in a different way....you can get air egress vinyl where if there is a bubble, you can release.the air and push it out. If there's dust under that won't work though.
Pay a little more for the air egress vinyl stock. It’ll save you in the long run from reprints and wasting substrate. Also, I’m not sure how you are applying the vinyl but look at using a squeegee. It takes a little getting use to but it works great applying vinyl once you get the hang of it.
Modern Ink Signs
Premium Subscriber
There are several factors
The most important of these is application technique AND the proper squeegee. Make sure your squeegee is sharp. No nicks or gouges.
The gold 3M PA-1 in my opinion works the best for flat surface vinyl applications. If you get a nick in the squeegee, simply rub the application edge against another on the center rib
The most important of these is application technique AND the proper squeegee. Make sure your squeegee is sharp. No nicks or gouges.
The gold 3M PA-1 in my opinion works the best for flat surface vinyl applications. If you get a nick in the squeegee, simply rub the application edge against another on the center rib
Thanks for the help. I want to buy the Big squeegee. Will the Big squeegee work with cut vinyl with masking transfer?
DerbyCitySignGuy
New Member
Bubbles, wrinkles, and other imperfections in your transfer tape can also transfer to your vinyl, FYI.
letterman7
New Member
Technique...... and technique only. Bad atmospheric conditions or temperament really don't play a part, unless you just wanna blame your own incompetence on someone or something else.
If you're hit or miss deal, then you are not really that good, just lucky sometimes.
I like ya Gino... but if someone says they can lay any non-air release vinyl of any type in any environment and get no bubbles ever... they're lying through their teeth. Incompetence has nothing to do with it. Bubbles happen.. it's just a part of laying vinyl.
clarizeyale
New Member
So when we do big cut frost jobs, I let the vinyl sit and dry then spray the transfer tape with soapy water and its so much easier to pull off.
As it could be figured, no one really knows this answer. BUT I can assure you mismatched tack of tape can contribute to pulling bubbles (more of a stretched spot) on vinyl that was not completely laid. Best to let the vinyl sit for a bit then as mentioned, spray it with soapy, rub it in, wait a few minutes spray again, then the bond will be weakened. Oh and pull tape off at a 45* angle
Gino
Premium Subscriber
Yeah correct on all counts, except, I didnt say each and every time. I, nor anyone in our shop or anyone I know get it right all the time, but all these conditions generally only hinder putting it down, not destroy a whole job.
kcollinsdesign
Old member
Squeegee technique and not stretching the vinyl is most of it. Go slow and firm. If you have a big piece, roll it up so it doesn't sag. A big squeegee can be troublesome. I use the standard size gold ones for everything. The cheap squeegees will wear out and eventually form a curve at the blade.
Some plastics and finishes will outgas and bubbles will form even after a perfect application. Usually, they will settle down (especially after a few days of outdoor exposure). Temperature also makes a difference; try to have both the surface and the vinyl at the same temperature (room temperature is ideal). Really cold vinyl is rigid and less conforming, really hot vinyl will be soft and stretch easily when applying. I do not recommend applying vinyl at temperatures lower than 50° f. Also, if you store your vinyl in a cold environment (unheated warehouse, garage, maybe the vinyl was shipped in the winter), let it warm up to room temperature before using.
Also use a good quality paper transfer tape. Plastic can cause all kinds of problems, usually related to static (convenient for overlays; I use registration marks strategically placed or a light table).
Some plastics and finishes will outgas and bubbles will form even after a perfect application. Usually, they will settle down (especially after a few days of outdoor exposure). Temperature also makes a difference; try to have both the surface and the vinyl at the same temperature (room temperature is ideal). Really cold vinyl is rigid and less conforming, really hot vinyl will be soft and stretch easily when applying. I do not recommend applying vinyl at temperatures lower than 50° f. Also, if you store your vinyl in a cold environment (unheated warehouse, garage, maybe the vinyl was shipped in the winter), let it warm up to room temperature before using.
Also use a good quality paper transfer tape. Plastic can cause all kinds of problems, usually related to static (convenient for overlays; I use registration marks strategically placed or a light table).