CJV30-160 cut not dead on after print

[AdamDG]

Hey everyone,

We have been running a mimaki cjv30-160 for a few months now and recently ran into some issues with our cuts not being accurate. We just started noticing this problem as our print and cuts in the past have been straight-forward where recently we've had some customers wanting some intricate print and cuts done. One example is some lettering being cut out after print on vinyl and leaving some white on the lettering and ink on the remaining vinyl. We had a service tech come out last week and spend all day doing adjustments and then walked me through some more over the phone the following day and got it pretty close but not dead on. Now they are telling me that it's all they can do, its the way every printer is and that we need to leave a .5mm bleed on everything we print and cut.

I'm basically wondering if that is true, because they never told us anything about that when buying the machine, or if they are just feeding me a load of... because they can't figure it out.

Cuts are done in the fine setting with a low speed with no difference in accuracy.
They had found the encoder strip wasn't installed right in the centre slots and was causing the head to bend it and damage it so they replaced it no charge, just as an fyi.

Looking for some second opinions so any feedback/info is greatly appreciated!

Adam
Diamond Graphix

 

[myront]

This can happen on long runs and/or with heavy materials such as laminated reflective. We try to keep it to 10ft max. Make sure pinch rollers are at max (strongest pinch)
Yes, we use a bleed on all to compensate where possibly.

 

[EffectiveCause]

You should always have some bleed. I try to leave at least 1/8 inch bleed.

 

[AdamDG]

This can happen on long runs and/or with heavy materials such as laminated reflective. We try to keep it to 10ft max. Make sure pinch rollers are at max (strongest pinch)
Yes, we use a bleed on all to compensate where possibly.

It has been on smaller lettering cut outs, but I've heard that with the larger cuts it can be off.
Had called another supplier and talked to one of their techs which seemed much more knowledgeable and told me about the bleed and a couple other tips as well.

Thanks for the quick responses!

 

[Pixels Are Bad Mmmkay?]

We always use a bleed and in those rare instances where you just can't have a bleed or on decals over 6 feet or so, we outsource to someone like signs365 where they use a Zund cutter and the cuts are always dead on.

 

[ewded]

Mimakis firmware is just shitty. On my cjv150 I need to insert 'wrong' setting when setting up cutting alignment. Also on bi-dir setting I need to enter 'wrong' setting. Now I can print and cut very long pieces (120") with very crowded design and the error is less than 1.5mm (1/16 inch ?) most. Not sure if this is the case with other models or only mine is 'faulty'. When I need really good precision I try limit the print and cut job to 2-3 ftsq.

 

[myront]

Might check the pinch roller too. Sometimes they get caked up with grit and such that allow for slippage.

 

[AdamDG]

Might check the pinch roller too. Sometimes they get caked up with grit and such that allow for slippage.

Good idea I will have to check that and see. We recently started put them at the higher pressure setting but on a few of our vinyl materials it start to leave impressions unfortunately

 

[AdamDG]

Mimakis firmware is just shitty. On my cjv150 I need to insert 'wrong' setting when setting up cutting alignment. Also on bi-dir setting I need to enter 'wrong' setting. Now I can print and cut very long pieces (120") with very crowded design and the error is less than 1.5mm (1/16 inch ?) most. Not sure if this is the case with other models or only mine is 'faulty'. When I need really good precision I try limit the print and cut job to 2-3 ftsq.

we were doing the same thing, limiting size whenever possible, to obtain the most accurate results. I had read a bit about their firmware, as it was cited to be a possible cause, but didn't delve too deep into it once I checked we were up to date for our machine.

My main worry is we have a few big jobs coming up, a couple tractor trailer full sides, and like you said, the bigger the job the less accuracy it will have. Fingers crossed this at least helps

 

[AdamDG]

You should always have some bleed. I try to leave at least 1/8 inch bleed.

.
Question about bleeds, as I know a bit about it but not everything.. My understanding is it works well when printing a full sheet and you want some extra print to the edge of the paper or just past your crop marks. Does applying a bleed, using illustrator, work the same when printing out lettering only to be cut out? Will it print a bit extra on each letter to compensate for the cut being off?

 

[ewded]

.
Question about bleeds, as I know a bit about it but not everything.. My understanding is it works well when printing a full sheet and you want some extra print to the edge of the paper or just past your crop marks. Does applying a bleed, using illustrator, work the same when printing out lettering only to be cut out? Will it print a bit extra on each letter to compensate for the cut being off?

You need to set up your files like one of these :

Using the offset path in Illustrator.

If you go with the first version (no white border) make sure you wait at least 30 minutes before cutting as the vinyl will curl up if you cut it before outgassing.

 

[AdamDG]

You need to set up your files like either of these :

View attachment 134110

Using the offset path in Illustrator.

If you go with the first version (no white border) make sure you wait at least 30 minutes before cutting as the vinyl will curl up if you cut it before outgassing.

Okay perfect thanks. I had a feeling that's what I had to do, using offset paths, but you google it and all that comes up is adding bleeds in the printing menu of illustrator, for normal printers I imagine

 

[AdamDG]

Hey guys, Idk if anyone can help with this. Grown tired of my cuts being slightly off but all of a sudden it went from manageable to worse. I've attached a pic from illustrator showing my cut contour line being brought way to the left to get the printer to cut out properly (centred) and wondering if anyone has any suggestions to look at in the machine setup. I've got a bleed but it cut so far to the right that it was hitting the white, it cut the opposite of the cut contour in the pic I uploaded. Orientation is a 90 degree rotation so they're printed sideways, the cutter is actually cutting too far back, it's a front to back issue not side to side. I've wasted a bunch getting the cut fixed and figuring where I need to set it up in illustrator and then importing that file to cut but I obviously can't go on like that for every file.
What kills me is I spend half a day Monday adjusting the pointer offset, the 500 mm square adjustments and a couple other things to get the cut dialed in, which is was for that particular job by the time I was done. Then I print Tuesday, laminate today and begin cutting to have it cut way off.
Losing my patience with this thing as we just spent a few week dealing with print/head issues which are finally fixed properly and working great, to now the cut being off.
I'm hoping someone can give me some advice as to what to check or re-look at as this is brutal and I may need to call in a service tech from one of my suppliers to look at it, which I'd rather not do plus I need some jobs done before the holiday shut downs.
Thanks in advance!

 

[Solventinkjet]

Are you using crop marks? If so, have you adjusted the A and B offset in the mark detect settings? If the cut is off by the same amount every time, that's the setting you need to adjust.

 

[AdamDG]

Are you using crop marks? If so, have you adjusted the A and B offset in the mark detect settings? If the cut is off by the same amount every time, that's the setting you need to adjust.

Yes we are, but no I haven't adjust that one. Is that in the maintenance menu as well? Does the operating or service manual tell you how to make that adjustment?

 

[Solventinkjet]

Yes we are, but no I haven't adjust that one. Is that in the maintenance menu as well? Does the operating or service manual tell you how to make that adjustment?

It's in the mark detect settings. You have to be in cut mode and then just hit Function>Setup>Choose your tool preset>Mark Detect

Once you get to Mark Detect, just hit a few times and it will scroll through the Mark Detect settings. 2 of the settings will be X and Y offset and those basically move the cut to where you want it. I said A and B offset before but I was thinking of a standalone Mimaki cutter. In your machine it's called X and Y offset. I usually print and cut a crosshair and then adjust accordingly. Just keep in mind that it's backwards from what you learned in school. X is the up and down direction and Y is the left and right.

 

[AdamDG]

It's in the mark detect settings. You have to be in cut mode and then just hit Function>Setup>Choose your tool preset>Mark Detect

Once you get to Mark Detect, just hit a few times and it will scroll through the Mark Detect settings. 2 of the settings will be X and Y offset and those basically move the cut to where you want it. I said A and B offset before but I was thinking of a standalone Mimaki cutter. In your machine it's called X and Y offset. I usually print and cut a crosshair and then adjust accordingly. Just keep in mind that it's backwards from what you learned in school. X is the up and down direction and Y is the left and right.

Okay I was wondering if you meant X and Y, I will check that after I finish cutting out the last few rows of the decal I already adjusted for, before starting the next cut. Do I need to print something before starting to make that adjustment, to make that adjustment with?

 

[Solventinkjet]

Okay I was wondering if you meant X and Y, I will check that after I finish cutting out the last few rows of the decal I already adjusted for, before starting the next cut. Do I need to print something before starting to make that adjustment, to make that adjustment with?

That's where I usually print and cut a crosshair. It gives you an idea of how far you need to move it. It will take a few rounds of printing and cutting the crosshair and changing the adjustment to get it spot on.

 

[AdamDG]

That's where I usually print and cut a crosshair. It gives you an idea of how far you need to move it. It will take a few rounds of printing and cutting the crosshair and changing the adjustment to get it spot on.

Okay thank you, I will give that a try and hopefully fixes my issue. Thanks for the quick replies as well and have a happy holiday season if we do not chat again!