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CJV30 upgrade with silver
- Thread starter toodark
- Start date
Hello, switching back to 6 colors only is possible. I did it because never used the white ink. Configuration with white color is much slower than 6 colors only (which is also much slower as 2xCMYK configuration) even if white is not used.
For the configuration with silver, I guess that it is the same as with configuration with 2 white channels.
Procedure for switching back to 6 colors: "discharge and wash" + replace white damper + fill up ink. It is well explained in the user manual.
For the configuration with silver, I guess that it is the same as with configuration with 2 white channels.
Procedure for switching back to 6 colors: "discharge and wash" + replace white damper + fill up ink. It is well explained in the user manual.
bigben
New Member
Even the dealers in my area don't know anything about it. I'm trying to get some samples from mimaki usa.
artbot
New Member
what is the deal with dealers and suppliers not knowing what's going on in the ink world. i've had to have the same conversations with two local suppliers both denying that white and silver ink is available for mimaki.
i'd be alarmed if i was mimaki. they are doing a poor job of promoting their products.
and yes! please give a review of the silver mimaki ink. i want to run either roland or mimaki silver in my jv3 and would love to know which one is better.
i'd be alarmed if i was mimaki. they are doing a poor job of promoting their products.
and yes! please give a review of the silver mimaki ink. i want to run either roland or mimaki silver in my jv3 and would love to know which one is better.
MikePro
New Member
+1
although it is only ecosolvent inks offered in white/metallic (mimaki for sure, but don't know about roland), but that shouldn't stop solvent printers from being able macgyver a way to use it.
SightLine
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Triangle (http://www.inxdigital.com) also has Silver for Mimaki's now too - and probably a lot less expensive and as good if not better quality. Not something I'm going to try myself though. I do (and have for a long time) run Triangle inks but dual CMYK is all I need.
artbot
New Member
awesome tip with the triangle!!!!!! i'm about to set up for dual cmyk. and have a white and then a silver refillable cart' mounted outside the printer. the end of the ink line will have a "y" splitter and i will just run dual white and silver from my black channel.
that's what i've been doing for white and solvent varnish lately and it's just a better system. i only run white every few weeks and it makes no sense to have it in the machine all the time. plus, the rip when in special color mode doesn't print the white double fast (like dual cmyk). it just over prints 2x print at normal speed.
that's what i've been doing for white and solvent varnish lately and it's just a better system. i only run white every few weeks and it makes no sense to have it in the machine all the time. plus, the rip when in special color mode doesn't print the white double fast (like dual cmyk). it just over prints 2x print at normal speed.
bigben
New Member
wow! Can you give me more details on how to do this?
Also, I've called [FONT="]Paul McGovern[/FONT] at the Mimaki's head office in atlanta to have more details about white and silver ink. I'll let you know if I have some news.
artbot
New Member
took a quick pic.
it's an easy mod. note the shelf can be raised/lowered. it's set to the perfect height right now. the height controls the positive load on the ink supply.
just run an extra line through your machine.
remember to clean out the line after you use it. white ink shouldn't sit and dry in a line. the pigments settle and do not "melt" if you attempt to flush later. see that little tube hanging out? i sink it in a small container of acetone (no cleaning solution needed for this) and pull and push until clean.
the entire conversion from black to white takes about 15 minutes, and then another 15 minutes from white to black. it's really only a good routine if you are going to do several hours of white printing.
but for the most part it solves all the white ink issues. the expense of throwing away all the white ink, clogging, speed loss. for me it's the only way to go.
plus, since the cart is clear, you don't have to "shake" every day. just shake it when you need it. you can see when all the settled particles are blended. something you can't do with the factory cart. just bust open the factory cart and funnel it into the clear refillable.
it's an easy mod. note the shelf can be raised/lowered. it's set to the perfect height right now. the height controls the positive load on the ink supply.
just run an extra line through your machine.
remember to clean out the line after you use it. white ink shouldn't sit and dry in a line. the pigments settle and do not "melt" if you attempt to flush later. see that little tube hanging out? i sink it in a small container of acetone (no cleaning solution needed for this) and pull and push until clean.
the entire conversion from black to white takes about 15 minutes, and then another 15 minutes from white to black. it's really only a good routine if you are going to do several hours of white printing.
but for the most part it solves all the white ink issues. the expense of throwing away all the white ink, clogging, speed loss. for me it's the only way to go.
plus, since the cart is clear, you don't have to "shake" every day. just shake it when you need it. you can see when all the settled particles are blended. something you can't do with the factory cart. just bust open the factory cart and funnel it into the clear refillable.
Attachments
artbot
New Member
... well, i'd recommend a separate silver ink line. but as for getting all the silver out of the line for it to be dormant for a while, you can get those lines really clean because without the cart and head in the picture during cleaning the line, you can exert a lot of force forward and backward through the line. getting the head clean is another issue. i don't know if the small amount of silver in the black head would be easy to flush out in place of black. as for white to black and clear varnish to black... no problem at all. i'd hope the silver would be a similar experience.
bigben
New Member
ok, I've got the infos about adding silver ink in mimaki's printer. I've also got some samples and it's comparable to Roland but it seems to be more scratch resistant. The demos are great and I can't wait to try it myself.
I've attach the pdf that I've go from Paul McGovern at the mimaki's head office.
I've attach the pdf that I've go from Paul McGovern at the mimaki's head office.
Mimaki silver
Since mimaki Es3,Roland solmax and Mutoh Eco ultra are the same epson licensed ink,their silver option is the same as well...so there is no need to compare Mimaki vs Roland.However being eco formula based mixing it with mild solvent inkset like ss21 is not recommended.Problems of smudging, slow drying and sedimentation.Roland VS is much more suitable machine due to inclusion of additional pumps for circulation in white and silver channels.Lack of this option in Jv33 makes it less suitable for that type of printing,especially if to take into account combo cup station(manual cleaning) and crazy prices.Nevertheless Roland silver is much better than triangle option.It's just has much more shine in it for those bright glittery effects while mixing it with slight percentage of C\M\Y provides wider metallic gamut.
Since mimaki Es3,Roland solmax and Mutoh Eco ultra are the same epson licensed ink,their silver option is the same as well...so there is no need to compare Mimaki vs Roland.However being eco formula based mixing it with mild solvent inkset like ss21 is not recommended.Problems of smudging, slow drying and sedimentation.Roland VS is much more suitable machine due to inclusion of additional pumps for circulation in white and silver channels.Lack of this option in Jv33 makes it less suitable for that type of printing,especially if to take into account combo cup station(manual cleaning) and crazy prices.Nevertheless Roland silver is much better than triangle option.It's just has much more shine in it for those bright glittery effects while mixing it with slight percentage of C\M\Y provides wider metallic gamut.