Onyx RGB input profiles seem to give weird posterisation in certain files.
This is why I'll softproof to the printer profile when I'm "punching up" the color of an image. You can see on the screen when you reach the limits of the gamut and it starts to posterize.
Using 16 bit images and 16 bit profiles helps prevent this from occurring. Even if you have to switch from 8 bit to 16 bit you'll still see a difference when you're pushing the images to the gamut limits. Even though the image starts as an 8 bit image the adjustments you make after switching to 16 bit will spread the tonal range over the greater number of shades to fill in the gaps.
Your tone compression curves can also cause this to happen if they are set incorrectly or for the wrong tonal range. They tend to be pretty hardwired into the profiling apps these days though. It's been a long time since I've seen a profiling application that gives you any real control over their adjustments. Adjusting the tone compression is always a trade off and usually set to maintain the most mid-tone detail, but can be adjusted to create more tonal range (detail) in the highlight or shadow areas at the expense of the other end of the scale. Handy for times where you have an image that's mainly highlight or shadow detail. Say a shot of a girl in a white lace wedding dress or a night scene photograph with mainly shadow detail and specular highlights. It's one of those tricks that's nice to have in your bag when you need it.
As for running any sort of an unprofiled workflow, I just can't bring myself to do it. Crossing my fingers when I hit print and hoping for the best isn't something I can bring myself to do. Except for my most aggressive profiles, the printer is set to have a neutral linearization, but a swop CMY gray and an inkjet CMY gray are usually two completely different sets of numbers. What are neutral color numbers on one printer are casted on the other.
What's been suggested is merely a quick and dirty way to get punchy color from an existing CMYK file that's been saved with a small gamut profile. It doesn't produce any higher gamut at the printer and it sacrifices all control over color accuracy. I work too hard to reduce wastage at the print stage, so I'd rather take the small amount of time to make the kind of adjustments where I know I'll get predictable results. It takes less time to punch up the color the right way than selling the client on a print of questionable color accuracy after it's been printed.
I should add that I'm pretty anal about color if it's not readily apparent from the above. Most people aren't and still make good money in this industry. I've simply used my skills to carve out a niche for others like me and can charge a little more to those people. I'm never the lowest quote, but I stay busy because of that niche I've created.