Coroplast signs on painted Interior walls

[mameighan]

I have a school that wants simple printed coroplast signs to mount to interior painted brick/concrete walls? I would appreciate suggestions on mounting strategies. They would prefer not to drill.

Looking around the forums I think VHB and silicone is the way to go. what sort of VHB tape and silicone would be best?

The last ones they had installed by another sign shop had a ds tape (cant tell what but actually looked like banner tape to me) but it failed after a few months. They then used super glue but after painting the walls they cant get that to stick either

Would appreciate suggestions

Thanks

Mark

 

[JgS]

I wold think hat silicone would damage the paint as well. I would suggest small masonry screws. Small holes you can fill in later.

 

[petepaz]

check haborsales.net they have a bunch of different tapes and they also give a description of where is can be used.

 

[Mosh]

3M has those removable hook systems, check at the Wall-Mart, I assume these will not be up forever since they are coro.....

 

[Gino]

Good question.

The first company did what they asked and didn't use mechanical fasteners with total failure. They try some goopy glue and it fails. When will they learn their lesson ??

It must be fasteners..... or mess up their walls with silicone. They could just make these signs on shocard and put them up with double-sided tape without a problem.

Heck, I'm surprised at a school they didn't request Velcro.................

 

[a77]

all kidding aside,
velcro's not a bad option depending on the size!

 

[Gino]

all kidding aside,
velcro's not a bad option depending on the size!

Yeah, right. In a school, right. I was really saying that with tongue-in-cheek. You'll be replacing them 4 or 5 times a day, unless you have locker checks between passing classes.

 

[mameighan]

thanks for the input - the signs will be 24 x 18 basic yard sign size

 

[FireSprint.com]

I do find that filling small holes from mechanical fasteners is less obtrusive and easier to repair than dealing with adhesive residue.

Is there any way you could hang them from the ceiling?

http://www.southernimperial.com/36-inch-wire-ceiling-hanger-banner-holders-p-2492.html

 

[mameighan]

I have thought about the ceiling option as well thanks. I am still trying to negotiate pricing. The last person couldn't have made any money on what they charged

 

[Moze]

This works great: post #3

 

[Markus59]

I have never had this tape fail http://www.alliance-express.com/permanent-double-sided-foam-tapes, I have hung 4'x8' sheets of 3/16 Gator board with 4 strips along the back to both block and drywall and had it hold like a rock. It will take the paint off the concrete and peel the skin off drywall when pried off, but the sign will not fall off the wall.

 

[CanuckSigns]

Are the signs going to be permanent? I assume no if coroplast is being used. I would second the 3M command strips option if this is the case

If they are permanent, Avoid coroplast!

 

[Pat Whatley]

Seriously people, stop with the dang silicone on temporary signs. The signs will last a year or two....the silicone mess will stay behind forever. I don't know why they don't want mechanical fasteners but my guess is either A: They are idiots or B: You don't own a hammer drill (if you don't get one, they're not expensive and you'll kick yourself for not buying one sooner). Two little 1/8" holes in each sign will keep it up there until they physically take them down and when they do there's just a small hole left that is easily repaired if they want it that way. If they insist on tape the Command adhesive strips are wonderful things.

 

[TyrantDesigner]

I don't know why you don't use some aggressive foam tape ... used one by duraco to attach a metal letter to my solid wood door, when i went to remove it I gave it a tug thinking it would just take some paint up ... ripped the wood out of the door. 3m scotch foam tape is pretty fricken aggressive too. Tape is for not though if it's overly textured or a flat paint ... smoother the better. otherwise, just tapcon that bisnich ... everything else will either fail, or be a terror to take off.

OR, if they want the coro to be replaceable but want it going in the same place every time ... try to sell them on an extruded frame that is perm attached ... no adhesives and a perm mount that will look professional even with a mediocre substrate like coro. ... i mean heck, you could probably sell them cintra signs for a hair more.

 

[fresh]

You don't own a hammer drill (if you don't get one, they're not expensive and you'll kick yourself for not buying one sooner)

My partner / husband hates learning new things. He's always like "oh, we don't need that!" "We did the job without it before, why change what works?!?" This drives me crazy.

So a while back we had a job installing about 80 2'x3' signs into brick and concrete, and I decided we must purchase the appropriate tool to install. I wasn't going to spend forever with using a traditional drill, so I got us this bosch hammer drill. After the first hole, I wanted to really to give my husband a good whack for making us wait so long to get it. The thing goes through concrete like butter. Its AMAZING. You need a hammer drill.

 

[Gino]

My partner / husband hates learning new things. He's always like "oh, we don't need that!" "We did the job without it before, why change what works?!?" This drives me crazy.

So a while back we had a job installing about 80 2'x3' signs into brick and concrete, and I decided we must purchase the appropriate tool to install. I wasn't going to spend forever with using a traditional drill, so I got us this bosch hammer drill. After the first hole, I wanted to really to give my husband a good whack for making us wait so long to get it. The thing goes through concrete like butter. Its AMAZING. You need a hammer drill.

This past summer, we got a Makita SDS drill which makes using a hammer drill like using an ice pick by hand. I totally agree, you need to have the right tools for the job. That sucka makes a perfect hole in like 3 seconds where the hammer drill is about 15 or 20 seconds. When you're doing hundreds of holes, not only is the time factor important, but so is the weight and dexterity in your hands after doing it so long.

Think you waited long.................. I only waited 40 years to get my dream tool !!

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edit: I never knew you were a girl. If I did, I forgot.
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[Pat Whatley]

I've got a $60 Ryobi 18V hammer drill that I've drilled a couple of thousand holes with. The first time I used it I was literally pissed off that I'd fought drilling holes with a regular drill all those years. Since then I rarely use adhesives or foam tape on brick and block.