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cutting nualum with a jigsaw

Emil

New Member
Hey all, im trying to make a sign for a client, she wants nualum and i was wondering what the best way to cut it would be, it needs to have curves in the design so i would imagine that a jigsaw would work, any special blade that could cut it without lots of splintering and problems.
 

Johnny Best

Active Member
I have a variable speed jigsaw and use a fine tooth metal blade, Do not push it and take your time and it cuts fine. You are talking about plywood with a thin aluminum sheet on top which is what I persume nuAlum is.
 

Emil

New Member
that is correct, do you have any problems with the aluminum splitting from the plywood, or the plywood splintering when you do it?
 

Johnny Best

Active Member
I perfer a bandsaw to do that kind of work but if using the jigsaw you need a fine tooth so it does not rip it to much on the up and down motion of the blade, They have a plywood blades and metal ones that gives a fine cut at the Box stores, just read the package on what it is designed for.
 

Kottwitz-Graphics

New Member
Or, CNC...

But if it has curves, are you going to be able to put edge cap on it? The edges have to be finished in some way, and painted edges would be tedious to finish out...
 

Johnny Best

Active Member
If you have to use a jigsaw, buy yourself the Bosche, 1584AVSK

Bosch Barrel Grip Jig Saw with Case 1584AVSK reviews | ToolWise.com

Hands down the best tool for the job, and I have used about every brand made...it has a blade angle adjust that minimizes chipping and cuts extremely fast

and of course with the correct blade for the substrate, it will work wonders

thats what I use, best jigsaw I ever used IMG_0634.jpg
 
I use a $40 Black & Decker jigsaw for cutting substrates to shape, and I love it. It's very light and easy to handle. I cut everything from 3/4" MDO to 1/8" ACM with no problems at all. I've had this saw for 6 years now and it still works great.
 

signbrad

New Member
For a very clean cut I like using a 20-teeth-per-inch hollow ground blade.
There is no set to the teeth like on most blades, and the teeth don't hook upwards like a wood blade. On plywood the cut rivals a bandsaw cut, looking almost sanded, and it leaves the best-finished edge I have ever seen on acrylic. I have even used it on aluminum as thick as 1/4-inch, slowly, with plenty of lubricant.
I have used it on aluminum composites, and it seemed to work great. Because the teeth have no set, the blade gets hot. I go slow and change blades fairly often. I don't mind running through extra blades if the result is near perfect.

The down side of the blade is that when cutting heavier material, or multiple layers at the same time, it gets hot enough to break without warning. When making channel letters, I used to cut 2, 3, or even 4 acrylic letters at the same time this way in the "before router tables" era, and when the blade broke it often marred the face of the letter on top of the stack. So I started cutting all letters from the back side, which solved the problem unless an acrylic letter actually cracked when the blade broke.
Also, the heat generated by the blade will melt cheaper grade acrylics so that the cut will virtually close back up behind the blade. But it was not a problem on high grade cast acrylic, like Plexiglas GP.

I bought these blades, of all places, at Sears. The package was labeled "fine tooth scrolling blade, hollow ground." Of course, they didn't fit my Bosch's proprietary mounting system. But any commercial quality jigsaw/sabre saw with a 3-1/2 to 4-1/5 AMP motor will have similar power.

Brad in Kansas City

..............

I found this in a search. It looks like the blade I'm referring to. The description doesn't say "hollow ground," but it looks like it in the picture. And it has the T-mount shank. Also note that the blade is not as wide as a regular wood or metal blade, allowing for tighter turns.
Bosch Jigsaw Blade, T-Shank, 3 In. L, PK5 T101AO | Zoro.com


Brad
 
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