You should start a media album in the GallerySandblasted redwood with gold leaf
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Thanks!You should start a media album in the Gallery
I was wondering if mig wire would hold up, 035? Do you place it right against the board or leave a gap? When you blast, did you use a random pattern, run with the wire or perpendicular to it?I used heavy gauge stainless steel MIG welding wire. It won't rust and will probably last you a lifetime. The reason I used stainless was because i was concerned about flecks of steel rusting through the paint/s should any become embedded. Not sure if that's a real issue but the upside of that, for me, was that the stainless has lasted me for years and hundreds of signs. You can build the frame out of lightweight square tubing and use self drilling screws at each end to loop your wires around. I like mine loose because it makes more interesting "grain".
This is a mockup of the sign I am building for my shop. I'm going to do all the dimensional graphics on the router.
I need to make a new sign for our shop and we have blasters, 600lb pots like you had. I know there's probably an art to making your wire frame but do you have any suggestions if we were to give it a whirl? Like wire type/gauge, spacing or anything else? Our compressor is a 375cfm but I think if we backed off and kept it moving that it would work fine. I'd do some dry runs on scrap first.
No, mine is much thicker than .035. At least .045 but it looks like 1/16'' which would be .063. And it's solid wire; not flux core. Yes you place it right against the substrate. When you have it within 1/8'' or so of the depth you're after, take the frame off and blast without it. This will knock down the ridges from the edges of your lettering. Yes, I like to blast "with the grain" and keep the blast nozzle a perpendicular to the substrate as possible.I was wondering if mig wire would hold up, 035? Do you place it right against the board or leave a gap? When you blast, did you use a random pattern, run with the wire or perpendicular to it?
You were probably right on the steel embedding, that will make pin holes in aluminum (using steel shot) and Ive heard of people doing wood siding with walnut shells which embed in it and also rot under the paint.
Thanks for the info. One more question, are you using 15 or 20lb and what thickness? I guess that was 2 questions.No, mine is much thicker than .035. At least .045 but it looks like 1/16'' which would be .063. And it's solid wire; not flux core. Yes you place it right against the substrate. When you have it within 1/8'' or so of the depth you're after, take the frame off and blast without it. This will knock down the ridges from the edges of your lettering. Yes, I like to blast "with the grain" and keep the blast nozzle a perpendicular to the substrate as possible.
Most of the time, I use 1.5'' 15# and sometimes 2'' 15#. The Davis and Edward jones signs are two thicknesses of 1.5'' laminated to make a 3'' thick sign. The "ALday Howell sign is two thicknesses of 1.5'' for the tan/brown panel and the grey ellipses on both sides are another 1.5''. Total 6'' thick. I don't see any need for 20# in most applications I deal with.Thanks for the info. One more question, are you using 15 or 20lb and what thickness? I guess that was 2 questions.
Just in time, here to share my favorite compressor, she is beautiful and I love it hahahahahahahaWhat did you have for a compressor? An old Smith?