This post is specifically focused around using the Roland VG-2 Printer/Cutter for laminated, die-cut stickers.
I've been on the perf cut journey these past months. Learning a lot, but wouldn't say I've got it 100% dialed. I have more questions now than when I started, but have completed some successful runs of stickers. First, my current questions, and below that, everything I've learned that may be helpful to those struggling with perf cuts.
question 1: Can anyone recommend a print media with a backing that supports perf cut stickers? We currently use orafol 3164 (4mil) , laminated with orafol 210 (2.5 mil). The main issue is the fragile, paper-like backing will tear when breaking down the stickers. I feel like a media with stiffer or thicker backing could help?
question 2: What kind of adjustments do you make in versaworks to the Perforated Cut Controls? I adjust perforation force, but haven't touched the other three: Perforation Length (0.787), Half-cut length (0.039), & Half-cut force (1). Are those settings I should be making slight adjustments to when doing test cuts?
question 3: Is it crazy to take on large volume sticker jobs without a separate plotter machine just for cutting? We have two Roland Printer/Cutters, and with those, have always been able to meet the demands of high volume print jobs and print&cut jobs. Even large orders of non perf cut stickers; printed in rows with crop marks, laminated, cut, then weeded and broken down by hand. Efficient isn't the right word, because you're literally chopping each sticker by hand with a paper chopper, but we can knock them out in a very profitable way. The toughest part of that was the human labor chopping each sticker, and the less pleasing square backing look. Since we've been taking on die-cut sticker jobs, we've been falling further and further behind. Twice as long cutting on the printer. Pretty sure we're spending just as much time popping them out, trying not to tear the backing, and removing the outer ring, as we were chopping down non perf cut stickers . We print many extra rows to account for how many inevitably tear. The final product does look way cooler, but questioning if it's worth it. Long question less long: is mastering perf cut stickers attainable using Roland Printer/Cutters, with a combination of the right media and settings?
WHAT I'VE LEARNED:
It's true what they say: Stock up on blades and cut strips. You'll want to have a pile of both before attempting perf cut stickers. Can't wreck your blade and have it be the only one in the shop. On a tough but not uncommon day, I have gone through multiple blades trying to dial the settings. I've gotten into the habit of ordering a 5-pack of the 45 degree blades every time I order ink.
When we have a sticker job that requires perf cuts, before printing the actual job, I will print a few single rows of the sticker, each row with it's own set of crop marks. Those are to do test cuts on, making minor adjustments between, hopefully nailing down the settings before you get to the actual rows. It's actually good to print a bunch of these single rows, maybe with a variety of die-cut stickers, and have some on hand for when you break a blade mid job, and need to do some test cuts with the replacement blade before resuming the job.
First test: set the perf cut force to 100 more than regular cutting force. Cut a row, see how they weed. If regular (inside) cutting force is good, but perf cut isn't cutting deep enough, remove the blade holder from the printer, and give it a tiny clockwise twist, bringing the blade out a tiny bit. Perform another test cut row with the same settings. If the regular cut is still good, and the perf cut force still isn't enough, open cutting settings, and bump up the perf cut pressure by 25-50. Try cutting another row. If the perf cuts are still not enough, go back and forth between these two adjustments, the one in versa and the other by hand, with a row of test cuts between each, until the sweet spot reveals itself.
A Roland tech showed me his trick for getting successful perf cuts without poking through and ruining the blade. Put a new blade in the blade holder cylinder and turn counter clockwise until it's not really poking out. put a piece of cardboard on the table with a piece of laminated media (equally thick as what you'll be cutting) on top. drag the blade over the media. The blade shouldn't be sticking out far enough to cut anything. Give the cylinder a micro twist clockwise to bring the blade out a bit. Drag it across the media again. Repeat this process until the blade cuts through the media, but barley scratches the cardboard underneath. The idea is, if the knife is only just poking out enough to hardly scratch the cardboard, even when you push hard while dragging, you can get away with cranking the pressure up on your perf-cut force and it won't be able to push too far and break the blade, or damage the strip. It feels a little bit chincy? I feel like I'm risking breaking the blade just doing the test itself, but it's been helpful.
Specifically for circle shape stickers, instead of doing perf cuts, I apply a single regular cut path, and select two cut passes instead of one. Same pressure as I would use for a normal contour cut. They have been popping out with the ease I imagined perf cuts would when I got into this. Miraculously not shredding the blade and strip (much). Super clean die-cut sticker, minus the extra flap of backing you get with the perfcut, but looks good and still easy to peel. Also works for rectangular stickers.
Even when you nail the pressure, and get satisfactory test perf cuts at the top of a job, remember to babysit the job while it's cutting. Try popping out a recently cut sticker every few rows, and if it gives more resistance than it should, cancel the job between crop marks, and do more tests/adjustments (this is why it's good to have printed, laminated single rows of stickers with crop marks on hand). It's a hassle to lose momentum during a big cut day, but a bunch of stop and go with the machine is better than ripping through, and later being stuck trying to weed a bunch of stickers that didn't cut right because the blade chipped a third of the way into the job.
Discussion & Advice welcome!
I've been on the perf cut journey these past months. Learning a lot, but wouldn't say I've got it 100% dialed. I have more questions now than when I started, but have completed some successful runs of stickers. First, my current questions, and below that, everything I've learned that may be helpful to those struggling with perf cuts.
question 1: Can anyone recommend a print media with a backing that supports perf cut stickers? We currently use orafol 3164 (4mil) , laminated with orafol 210 (2.5 mil). The main issue is the fragile, paper-like backing will tear when breaking down the stickers. I feel like a media with stiffer or thicker backing could help?
question 2: What kind of adjustments do you make in versaworks to the Perforated Cut Controls? I adjust perforation force, but haven't touched the other three: Perforation Length (0.787), Half-cut length (0.039), & Half-cut force (1). Are those settings I should be making slight adjustments to when doing test cuts?
question 3: Is it crazy to take on large volume sticker jobs without a separate plotter machine just for cutting? We have two Roland Printer/Cutters, and with those, have always been able to meet the demands of high volume print jobs and print&cut jobs. Even large orders of non perf cut stickers; printed in rows with crop marks, laminated, cut, then weeded and broken down by hand. Efficient isn't the right word, because you're literally chopping each sticker by hand with a paper chopper, but we can knock them out in a very profitable way. The toughest part of that was the human labor chopping each sticker, and the less pleasing square backing look. Since we've been taking on die-cut sticker jobs, we've been falling further and further behind. Twice as long cutting on the printer. Pretty sure we're spending just as much time popping them out, trying not to tear the backing, and removing the outer ring, as we were chopping down non perf cut stickers . We print many extra rows to account for how many inevitably tear. The final product does look way cooler, but questioning if it's worth it. Long question less long: is mastering perf cut stickers attainable using Roland Printer/Cutters, with a combination of the right media and settings?
WHAT I'VE LEARNED:
It's true what they say: Stock up on blades and cut strips. You'll want to have a pile of both before attempting perf cut stickers. Can't wreck your blade and have it be the only one in the shop. On a tough but not uncommon day, I have gone through multiple blades trying to dial the settings. I've gotten into the habit of ordering a 5-pack of the 45 degree blades every time I order ink.
When we have a sticker job that requires perf cuts, before printing the actual job, I will print a few single rows of the sticker, each row with it's own set of crop marks. Those are to do test cuts on, making minor adjustments between, hopefully nailing down the settings before you get to the actual rows. It's actually good to print a bunch of these single rows, maybe with a variety of die-cut stickers, and have some on hand for when you break a blade mid job, and need to do some test cuts with the replacement blade before resuming the job.
First test: set the perf cut force to 100 more than regular cutting force. Cut a row, see how they weed. If regular (inside) cutting force is good, but perf cut isn't cutting deep enough, remove the blade holder from the printer, and give it a tiny clockwise twist, bringing the blade out a tiny bit. Perform another test cut row with the same settings. If the regular cut is still good, and the perf cut force still isn't enough, open cutting settings, and bump up the perf cut pressure by 25-50. Try cutting another row. If the perf cuts are still not enough, go back and forth between these two adjustments, the one in versa and the other by hand, with a row of test cuts between each, until the sweet spot reveals itself.
A Roland tech showed me his trick for getting successful perf cuts without poking through and ruining the blade. Put a new blade in the blade holder cylinder and turn counter clockwise until it's not really poking out. put a piece of cardboard on the table with a piece of laminated media (equally thick as what you'll be cutting) on top. drag the blade over the media. The blade shouldn't be sticking out far enough to cut anything. Give the cylinder a micro twist clockwise to bring the blade out a bit. Drag it across the media again. Repeat this process until the blade cuts through the media, but barley scratches the cardboard underneath. The idea is, if the knife is only just poking out enough to hardly scratch the cardboard, even when you push hard while dragging, you can get away with cranking the pressure up on your perf-cut force and it won't be able to push too far and break the blade, or damage the strip. It feels a little bit chincy? I feel like I'm risking breaking the blade just doing the test itself, but it's been helpful.
Specifically for circle shape stickers, instead of doing perf cuts, I apply a single regular cut path, and select two cut passes instead of one. Same pressure as I would use for a normal contour cut. They have been popping out with the ease I imagined perf cuts would when I got into this. Miraculously not shredding the blade and strip (much). Super clean die-cut sticker, minus the extra flap of backing you get with the perfcut, but looks good and still easy to peel. Also works for rectangular stickers.
Even when you nail the pressure, and get satisfactory test perf cuts at the top of a job, remember to babysit the job while it's cutting. Try popping out a recently cut sticker every few rows, and if it gives more resistance than it should, cancel the job between crop marks, and do more tests/adjustments (this is why it's good to have printed, laminated single rows of stickers with crop marks on hand). It's a hassle to lose momentum during a big cut day, but a bunch of stop and go with the machine is better than ripping through, and later being stuck trying to weed a bunch of stickers that didn't cut right because the blade chipped a third of the way into the job.
Discussion & Advice welcome!
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