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finishing reverse channel letters

Bradley D

www.jigsign.com
I'm looking for a faster method of finishing the edge of a reverse channel letter between the return and face. I don't want to see a seam in finished product. I've tried about 20 different kinds of gap fillers and have about 15 types of sanding devices but can't seem to find a method that is not labor intensive. I often have narrow openings in smaller letters that I need to be able to access as well. I'm curious how other sign companies finish these edges? I have not tried high build polyester primer yet. Curious what other companies do...
 

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GaSouthpaw

Profane and profane accessories.
Filler and sandpaper are pretty much the standard unless you have the ability to cast them- which comes with its own finishing challenges. I say filler and sandpaper because we've produced somewhere along the lines of of 1,200 or so reverse letters so far this year, and every single one of them has gotten "body work" and sanding before painting.
I would sure love to hear/learn about a faster method myself, though!
I would think a 3D metal printer might be able to do it, but I'm not familiar enough with the technology to say for certain. Also not sure it would be cost effective, though it would certainly seem to be- depending on how fast it prints.
 

DL Signs

Never go against the family
Hit up a auto parts store that sells automotive paints. Whatever brands they carry, they'll have best options for easy to work fillers, spot putties, high build polyester and epoxy primers, etc. Most will set up a jobber account for sign companies too, so you'll get better pricing than buying over the counter.
 

JBurton

Signtologist
Hit up a auto parts store that sells automotive paints. Whatever brands they carry, they'll have best options for easy to work fillers, spot putties, high build polyester and epoxy primers, etc. Most will set up a jobber account for sign companies too, so you'll get better pricing than buying over the counter.
IDK, my understanding is something like Matthews paint is both more dummy proof and more resilient than autobody paint, if he's already in bed with Matthews or Akzo, I'd go for their poly primers first.
Of course, oreilly's used to sell 3m bondo glazing and spot puddy, but anymore you have to order it, apply and wait 30 minutes at least. With a high build primer, you can coat and recoat in 10 or 20 minutes, which you'd rather just spray and carry on vs waiting for something to dry, right? I am far from an expert, going off what I've heard painters complain about.
 

DL Signs

Never go against the family
IDK, my understanding is something like Matthews paint is both more dummy proof and more resilient than autobody paint, if he's already in bed with Matthews or Akzo, I'd go for their poly primers first.
Of course, oreilly's used to sell 3m bondo glazing and spot puddy, but anymore you have to order it, apply and wait 30 minutes at least. With a high build primer, you can coat and recoat in 10 or 20 minutes, which you'd rather just spray and carry on vs waiting for something to dry, right? I am far from an expert, going off what I've heard painters complain about.
I grew up in a body shop, my teething rings were bondo spreaders... Matthews paint is the bomb for this stuff, but my little brain instantly goes to what body shops use for filling/ pre-finishing supplies, primers, etc. :)
 

Ryze Signs

New Member
Are you welding or glueing the letters together? We weld them then sand the seams and caulk the inside of the seam to prevent light leaks. No filler needed. Just installed this set yesterday.
 

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JBurton

Signtologist
Are you welding or glueing the letters together? We weld them then sand the seams and caulk the inside of the seam to prevent light leaks. No filler needed. Just installed this set yesterday.
I think he's either nit picking or thinking of interior eye level installs where some form of 'perfection' is ideal. I know I'd be displeased when ordering reverse channel letters if the whole return had a little lip toward the front.
 
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