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First wrap - Fender Flairs Suck

daenterpri

New Member
Well, I did my first partial wrap yesterday. Pretty fun. The tailgate went great, turned out amazing.

The side of the truck bed, however, was a pain in the but. Constant stretching to conform to the grooves along the bed and the fender flare at the same time.

How do you deal with fender flaires? Do you demand that they be removed?

Because of the wrinkles I was unable to get out, I'll probably be redoing this side next weekend, and I would love some advice on how to handle fender flaires better.

For this side I used Avery 2005 EZ (I'd prefer another brand, but Avery makes a lot of 48" vinyls for my 46" Mutoh Falcon).
 

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Richard G

New Member
Nice job. You ask how do you deal with the fender flairs? Looks to me as if you have it down pretty desent. The more you do the more you will deal with them.
Nice job
 
J

john1

Guest
Looks good, I see some slight bowing from where the material was stretched on the sides but it's a hell of a lot better than anything i could do. Imagine doing a dually, those flares are crazy lol

Good job!
 

MikePro

New Member
i remove my flairs, takes like 10min and saves you 2hr of work/headache.
I've been known to wrap them seperate if required, but I usually don't have to.
 

GypsyGraphics

New Member
How do you deal with fender flaires? Do you demand that they be removed?

Because of the wrinkles I was unable to get out, I'll probably be redoing this side next weekend, and I would love some advice on how to handle fender flaires better.

the wrinkles are unacceptable. with a little experience under your belt, you'll know to discuss in advance with your client whether or not you're wrapping flairs, bumpers, mirrors ect. and your mock-up should clearly depict the wrapped areas.

personally, i like removing anything i can, including bumpers. but i'm not sure how much luck or how professional you'll come off if you "demand" they do the removals themselves.
 

daenterpri

New Member
On a wrap like this, would it work for me to remove the flaires, and print a separate chunk to go on the flaires? Or would it be impossible to get the flaire design and truck design to line up?
 

GypsyGraphics

New Member
On a wrap like this, would it work for me to remove the flaires, and print a separate chunk to go on the flaires? Or would it be impossible to get the flaire design and truck design to line up?

reprint a few if you have to, it'll be a good learning experience.
you'll be glad you did and it will look so much better.

you'll do fine. post some updated pics for some well deserved ataboys! (or is it atagirls)
 

fmg

New Member
No need to remove the flairs whatsoever. The contours are not that stubborn by the looks of things.Practice will make you deal with these in the future.
Heat is key but don't overdo it.
The garage windows look off to me on the right side and I see a few wrinkles.
Keep practicing!!
 

GypsyGraphics

New Member
No need to remove the flairs whatsoever. The contours are not that stubborn by the looks of things.Practice will make you deal with these in the future.

good point.... they don't look difficult. my rule of thumb is, if it's attached like any body panel, i don't remove it. but if it's the kind with bolts that you can see from the outside (the kind that look like an add-on) i'd take it off. not because of difficulty, but because i like the look.
 

airborneassault

New Member
I see in your first post you used 2005EZ, am I correct in thinking that's a calendared film? If possible you might look into the 1005 cast film from Avery it looks like it's also available in a 48" roll.

The difference will be night & day & if the job calls for a gloss finish you can use the super thin 1360 laminate & bridge those body lines if they aren't over the recommended stretch. When I first started wrapping I had the hardest time with little details & would end up frustrated before the job was done. After several re-wraps on my own personal vehicle I started to refine my technique & became more and more comfortable with the different vinyls, don't get discouraged just keep practicing like FMG said. If possible practice on your personal, shop, friends or family vehicle and you'll get it.

All in all good job, I wish my first wrap resulted in something that decent; my first never saw the light of day!
-Nathan
 

HulkSmash

New Member
Here's your issues.

#1 - you didn't use the right material. That's a permanent Calendared Vinyl.. not meant for vehicles.
#2 - Once you actually use the right material it will be MUCH easier, and you will be able to heat and press the wrinkles out.
#3 - That flair isn't hard.. at all. Do not remove it. The customer is going to expect it to be wrapped over.

How to do it? How I would do it is like this.
Start at the top work your way down. When you get to the top of the flair work around it, and leave it lose around the wheel well. Lay down the sides in the front and back of the wheel well. That way when you tuck in the flair, your text wont be going uphill like it is now.
 

HulkSmash

New Member
Here's a Diagram... in steps of order.
After you do 1. You can LIGHTLY lay around the flair, do not press it down.. just place it.. if that makes sense? Hard to explain. Hope this helps.
 

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Circleville Signs

New Member
I have found that a successful wrap totally depends on the customer's expectations...

When I present a design to a client, it NEVER has flairs (unless removable), bumpers, etc. wrapped. EVER. If they client wants those things wrapped, they will invariably ask why I have not included them in the design. At this point, i get to upsell. if they want those things wrapped, then they pay more - period.

Why?

because those things are a PITA to wrap. I can wrap the body/roof/hood/tail of a Chevy HHR in not too much less time that it takes to wrap the damn bumpers.
 

Circleville Signs

New Member
Here's a Diagram... in steps of order.
After you do 1. You can LIGHTLY lay around the flair, do not press it down.. just place it.. if that makes sense? Hard to explain. Hope this helps.

What he is trying to say (and he's right - it's hard to describe) is that you dont' want to "commit" the vinyl to contoured areas until you have to. Contoured areas provide the most opportunity to use heat, and therefore the best opportunity to hide "extra" vinyl.

When you design, make sure there are no elements that are essential to the design that run over these types of body features....
 

fmg

New Member
A nice free training thread on how to wrap, No wonder half the world and it's uncle are getting into wrapping vehicles and such!!
 

GP

New Member
While I wish everything was in a premium forum (to add value and support the site), I commend ColoradoSigns for taking the time to share some valuable insight and create that template.

Great post,

GP
 
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