First wrap - Fender Flairs Suck

[Circleville Signs]

The fact that that OP actually tried to do it before asking really made it easy to help like i did.

This

 

[boxerbay]

Here's your issues.

#1 - you didn't use the right material. That's a permanent Calendared Vinyl.. not meant for vehicles.
#2 - Once you actually use the right material it will be MUCH easier, and you will be able to heat and press the wrinkles out.
#3 - That flair isn't hard.. at all. Do not remove it. The customer is going to expect it to be wrapped over.

How to do it? How I would do it is like this.
Start at the top work your way down. When you get to the top of the flair work around it, and leave it lose around the wheel well. Lay down the sides in the front and back of the wheel well. That way when you tuck in the flair, your text wont be going uphill like it is now.

+1 nailed it. just follow the numbers.

 

[kstompaint]

We generally remove everything we can, including flares. The truck below is the same body style with the same fenders. We removed them, wrapped the bedside, reinstalled them and then printed patches for the actual flares. More work? Yes, but it looks better, there''s no paint showing around the edge of the flare and it will last longer.

 

[daenterpri]

Thanks guys, this is very helpful! Ok, I'll dish out some money and buy the 1005 cast

2005 calendered would be best for non-wrap signage on vehicles?

 

[daenterpri]

We generally remove everything we can, including flares. The truck below is the same body style with the same fenders. We removed them, wrapped the bedside, reinstalled them and then printed patches for the actual flares. More work? Yes, but it looks better, there''s no paint showing around the edge of the flare and it will last longer.

Thank you, how far under the flair did you wrap?

 

[kstompaint]

Thank you, how far under the flair did you wrap?

To the edge of the wheel well.

 

[Circleville Signs]

Thanks guys, this is very helpful! Ok, I'll dish out some money and buy the 1005 cast

2005 calendered would be best for non-wrap signage on vehicles?

Correct.

What you will have in a couple of years is a very pissed off customer wondering why his paint and clearcoat are coming off in chunks when the wrap is removed....

 

[daenterpri]

Correct.

What you will have in a couple of years is a very pissed off customer wondering why his paint and clearcoat are coming off in chunks when the wrap is removed....

Good to know! Wish they didn't advertise it as a wrap solution...

 

[Circleville Signs]

Well, they dont' really advertise it as a wrap solution. It is very clearly labeled as a permanent adhesive, calendared vinyl. Anytime you see the words "permanent" or "calendared", you should steer clear of using it on a vehicle. When wrapping with digital media, or anytime you are going around complex curves, never use anything BUT air release vinyl.

 

[daenterpri]

Would you still use it as a regular sign on a vehicle? Just not a wrap?

 

[Circleville Signs]

I don't use calendared film on a vehicle unless the customer signs off on a waiver stating that they have been made aware that the vinyl being used will cause damage to their underlying paint when removed.

And I NEVER wrap with calendared, unless it is short term (bus stuff).

 

[HulkSmash]

We generally remove everything we can, including flares. The truck below is the same body style with the same fenders. We removed them, wrapped the bedside, reinstalled them and then printed patches for the actual flares. More work? Yes, but it looks better, there''s no paint showing around the edge of the flare and it will last longer.

Nice install job, but.. i cant read 1 word in that design

 

[kstompaint]

Nice install job, but.. i cant read 1 word in that design

Not sure this thread was about design, but...
The customer worked with us to refine the design. We initially had it more commercial looking. It doubles as his personal vehicle and he was "more concerned about it looking cool than being readable" so we went with more of a custom painted look. Also, the pic I took with my cell phone kinda sucks.

 

[Premier Wraps]

I'm with everyone else that said those really aren't flairs. I personally wouldn't remove them and they wouldn't really slow me down. And yes, using the right material will make the world of difference. Remember to post heat in the areas you stretched.


Also, remember to run your knife around the edge of the flair and the bed. relief that area. There's small gap there anyway where the flair mounts to the bed. put your knife in that gap so you're not cutting on the customers paint.

 

[HulkSmash]

I'm with everyone else that said those really aren't flairs. I personally wouldn't remove them and they wouldn't really slow me down. And yes, using the right material will make the world of difference. Remember to post heat in the areas you stretched.


Also, remember to run your knife around the edge of the flair and the bed. relief that area. There's small gap there anyway where the flair mounts to the bed. put your knife in that gap so you're not cutting on the customers paint.

IMO that flair isn't deep enough for a relief cut.

 

[MikePatterson]

Those flares are foam taped on the outside edge and use push clips in the finder well. If you remove them you have to clean all the old tape off, use primer 94 and reinstall new 3M molding and emblem tape and reinstall them. Too much a PITA for a wrap IMO. We would just clean them and install without removing them.

 

[Premier Wraps]

IMO that flair isn't deep enough for a relief cut.

Are you talking about where the bed side gets indented? If so, heck no. no relieve cut needed. I'm talking about the hard 90* edge where the flair meets the bed. Just an installer preference I guess, that's all. Wrapping that area, and then running your knife will relieve all pressure. Squeegy it done nice and tight. That nice straight cut you just made will never be seen with the eye and will never fail. Where as leaving it you run the risk of a little lifting which will be super noticable. To each their own.