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Graphtec FC 9000 marks for long cuts

BigNate

New Member
Sadly its not an easy fix!

I'm one of the ones having issues with the FC9000 cutting off. Mine doesnt go off much... but its nowhere near as accurate as the 8600.

The first row will be fine, then it'll slightly shift - so small stickers are an issue... but anything big is ok / accurate enough, but it makes most 4" or under stickers look lopsided.

I've had techs out a half dozen times, they replaced a ton of parts, factory reset everything... but it still tends to "Drift". Even the graphtec techs were stumped - Then on the other 9000 I have access to, it'll cut the exact same file perfectly.... I've been dealing with it for months with many visits, we're on the verge of demanding a replacement cutter be sent in, everytime we do what the graphtec techs ask, they have more stuff for the rep to try - Grimco is getting pretty pissed because they have to come out once a week to do new suggestions from graphtec, and not one thing has made it any better....

Seems to be a batch of bad graphtecs out there or something. For 99% of the stuff I do it doesnt matter, but for smaller stickers... everything looks soooo lopsided and unacceptable. My problem unfortunatelly doesnt fix with 4 corners, so its a bit different than the others... It's like my wheels are pushing the material at an angle and it doesnt correct it properly. Even with 4 corners, first row is fine and then it slowly goes out more and more... I told them I'm close to buying a summa and throwing this on craigslist :roflmao: Ive had an 8000, still have a 8600, and 2 9000s... and only1 of the 9000s does this, the others are dead accurate
I still think what you are describing can be attributed to the settings. The techs may not have the same finesse of setting everything up - an example from another industry: when Triumph Motorcycles were resurrected a few years ago, the factory was purchased with all the existing machinery. However when the new machinists were trying to make motors, they could not maintain the needed precision machining. Finally a retired machinist was able to come in - he had a lot of items like drag sticks that could be wedged against a turning shaft to limit motion - if left free you may have a bore that is 7 thousandths to big, but with the wedge in the mill, the bore would repeatedly come out with less than half a thousandths variance....

think about all the forces that go to your media while you are plotting... there is acceleration, jerk, drag, slip, and is all directions - the acceleration is only in and out, as this is the only way the media moves, but while this is happening the blade is dragging through the substrate, but the tip of the blade holder is also dragging (ideally you want enough down force to guarantee the blade plunges through the substrate and stays there, but no more as more down force causes more drag). When cutting near a roller, there are different torques generated than when you are at the maximum distance from a roller... I am positive that most if not all of the "problematic" 9000s will register within spec if all the forces are taken into consideration. (I have had a lot of people tell me that you cannot cut banners, and that even posters look terrible with the perf cut - but they are trying to do fine surgery with a hammer - I set the blade depth to within a fiber, or less of cutting through the banner on the UP stroke (all the way through on the down stroke) - when you pop out the final posters or banners, the edge is clean because there was most like only a halfway cut through pulp fiber holding everything together.

PATIENCE and realizing even a single degree of turn on the blade depth adjuster actually makes a difference (though you do also have to do thing like making the final movement of the depth adjustment being the down, ensuring there is no slack in the fine threads of the adjuster. on a guillotine cutter the last movement of the back gauge is always forward for the same reason - if you move it back to measurement, you can push the gauge a thousandth or so back as it takes up the slack in the threads....) if EVERY adjustment on the machine is thought through with this type of detail, your 9000 will plot perfectly...
 

ikarasu

Active Member
We've been dealing directly with the graphtec engineers, not just their support techs.

They ruled out wheels / frictions / and a slew of other things - if it were wheels or not feeding straight, the cuts would not complete - which isn't the case. The. It's are always perfectly aligned.

Ontop of we used a felt and slowed it down to 5 and it did the same thing.

Trust me, I've been through every single setting. We've tried new firmware, original firmware, different software, different cables... Different computer. You can factory reset the machine right next to it, and it'll cut perfect - it might need an a arms calibration to be hairpin accurate, but at least it's consistant - where as our second one will cutt off to the right, the. The next mark to the left.... Then the next to the top.... No pattern on how off it is.
We replaced the main board, daughter board, arms sensor, all the wheels - nothing has helped at all.
 

SignMeUpGraphics

Super Active Member
ikarasu, I'm going to PM you about this... curious about your serial and if it's in the same batch as Paul's and mine...
I'm annoyed for you that 4 corners isn't helping you. It's our work-around for now which is accurate. I'm not willing to sell our 8600 as it cuts more accurately than the 9000 ever has.
 

BigNate

New Member
We've been dealing directly with the graphtec engineers, not just their support techs.

They ruled out wheels / frictions / and a slew of other things - if it were wheels or not feeding straight, the cuts would not complete - which isn't the case. The. It's are always perfectly aligned.

Ontop of we used a felt and slowed it down to 5 and it did the same thing.

Trust me, I've been through every single setting. We've tried new firmware, original firmware, different software, different cables... Different computer. You can factory reset the machine right next to it, and it'll cut perfect - it might need an a arms calibration to be hairpin accurate, but at least it's consistant - where as our second one will cutt off to the right, the. The next mark to the left.... Then the next to the top.... No pattern on how off it is.
We replaced the main board, daughter board, arms sensor, all the wheels - nothing has helped at all.
I am sorry to hear yours is actually bad... per my example re Triumph Motorcycles, the machine may be within specs according to the techs and what they know to check and measure - however, there are way to work within the given parameters to maximize the output, like limiting the free movement of a shaft for grater precision, even though the movement is within the tool's designer's specs. (however, please be aware I was on e of those who ran dot-for-dot registration on an AB Dick 360... lots of full color flyers.)
 

Notarealsignguy

Arial - it's almost helvetica
Mine cuts about as random as my old sp300. It also gives an error when using barcodes on anything more than a few feet long but the same file fine if you use cropmarks. I'm using CM4.
 

jharler

New Member
Anyone have any luck with this? I got a new FC9000-160 a month ago and I'm having all kinds of accuracy issues. Using segmented marks, even with a print that's 5' x 3' ends up with cuts that are 1/8" off or so, and with just 4 corner marks on a 5' x 1' print is going off by about 1/16" in the middle most times and sometimes on the left side of the cutter, although usually it's pretty solid on the left side and it's always solid on the right side. I've tried different pressures with the pinch rollers. I'm working with Grimco tech support, but this thread isn't giving me much hope of a good resolution. I'm tired of printing and reprinting work because the cutter screws up so bad I can't sell what it did.
 

BigNate

New Member
segmented correction is the only way to go on images longer than 18".... but if your image is too small compared to the segment length you selected, the Graphtec will try to skip the segmented correction and start cutting as if the registration mark is the home position and it should just start... so either make sure your images are all on the 2'+ side, or just realize you need to turn off the segmented correction for shorter images (I did not find this in the manual, but through many repeatable experiments with the device, this has been very consistent)
 

DChorbowski

Pixel Pusher
I seem to remember with the 8000 and 8600 series, the pinch roller assemblies had to be adjusted for proper tension when replaced using a spring scale. This tension varied depending on what position order the roller was in. Does anyone have that guide?

I also have a 9000 and have some accuracy issues as well as it not feeding true over long(25'+) lengths. It always wants to walk to the left.

When we bought our 9000 we also bought an extra pinch roller and I do not remember the tech who set everything up did any tension adjustments to the roller assemblies. I have a funny feeling this may be where my issue lies with longer cuts.
 
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