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Suggestions Hand Painting Signs

DerbyCitySignGuy

New Member
After reading/participating in a couple of threads and talking to the 1 Shot dudes at ISA, I've decided to give hand painting a try. Probably going to start with lettering and go from there.

Anybody have any resources or suggestions on where to start the self education? I've found a few sites online that are "okay", but mainly looking for really solid video tutorials or books.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
There's basically only two ways to approach hand painting. One....is to actually learn along side of someone, such as in a classroom, a sign shop where they know how or just struggle on your own.

The other way is to be a fill in painter, which is like using a coloring book where you fill in the lines already provided.

Which one do you wanna be ??

Hand lettering, not painting..... is nothing more than a series of up and down strokes, left to right strokes and half circles frontwards and backwards. Those four elements will form any letter, graphics, design or just about anything in this field. Then, you must learn about mixing and palletting the paint and getting the correct consistency. So many people put all kinds of additives in the paint, giving them speed, when all they're doing is ruining the paint. Learn to paint outta the can and maybe add some penetrol to your pallate and once you get accuracy, speed will eventually follow as the brush will do what you want.
 

DerbyCitySignGuy

New Member
There's basically only two ways to approach hand painting. One....is to actually learn along side of someone, such as in a classroom, a sign shop where they know how or just struggle on your own.

The other way is to be a fill in painter, which is like using a coloring book where you fill in the lines already provided.

Which one do you wanna be ??

Hand lettering, not painting..... is nothing more than a series of up and down strokes, left to right strokes and half circles frontwards and backwards. Those four elements will form any letter, graphics, design or just about anything in this field. Then, you must learn about mixing and palletting the paint and getting the correct consistency. So many people put all kinds of additives in the paint, giving them speed, when all they're doing is ruining the paint. Learn to paint outta the can and maybe add some penetrol to your pallate and once you get accuracy, speed will eventually follow as the brush will do what you want.

It's honestly probably going to be struggling on my own. That's why I was hoping to find some resources that might make the struggle a little easier.

Anyway, already got one tip: paint from the can. Ha! Thanks, Gino. It's a start.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Well, good luck.

You'll probably find some purist come on and say, don't ever dip your brush into the can. Pour out what paint you'll need and discard it when finished. You don't wanna contaminate your whole can. In part, that's true, but at the timeframe we used to go through a quart of lettering enamel, there was no time for itsy-bitsy things to ruin the paint..... and the paint lasted 20 years, no sweat. Not so much anymore. We still have a sh!tload of leaded paint, but the new stuff, doesn't hold up that well and needs several coats to cover. It's like painting with snot.
 

Johnny Best

Active Member
Get yourself a red sable quill (Royal & Langnickel - Brushes, By Series Number, L15600 - Red Sable Quill) and some waterbase poster paint, or Ronan Aquacoat bullitin enamels and practice making letters. Not as messy as using oil base enamels and cleanup with water. You can use newspaper for your practice paper.
Or, get a Pilot Parallel Pen (green cover) and learn to draw letters using their little instruction paper that comes with it.
Don't use the excuse you have the kids and not the time to learn, I raised four.
https://www.amazon.com/Speedball-Textbook-comprehensive-Lettering-Twenth-Third/dp/0963153250
 

DerbyCitySignGuy

New Member
Johnny, thanks for the equipment tips. That's helpful. Rick, appreciate the links. Doubtful that I'll have time to check those out, but definitely have them on my radar.

Interested in seeing how this goes. Thanks, guys.
 
There are also some great sign writing resources from the national archives. Old books you can download. One from E.C. Matthews is great. There are many others and full of illustration! Just search archive.org
 

signbrad

New Member
Derby,

I would recommend working with as many different people as possible and keeping an open mind. Everyone has different techniques and methods. I have learned valuable tips and insights from every sign painter I have worked with. I don't believe there is a single correct way to mix paint or pallet a brush. I have met people with incredible talent who do not all use the same methods. You will eventually develop your own preferences.

A Letterhead meet will be all about sharing techniques, expertise, information about materials—and enthusiasm. There is a love of craft among these people.
A Walldog festival will give you experience using water-based Nova colors and working at larger scales. And they are a blast.

In addition to Mike Myers' workshops, Los Angeles Trade & Technical College offers a sign graphics course that includes hand lettering, among many other things.
 

TimToad

Active Member
In the "you can't run until you learn how to crawl" department, learning how to "dabble" in hand lettering first if you don't also gain experience in or already possess some knowledge of letter construction, good layout, how to draw letters, pull smooth strokes with a lettering brush, sharply and squarely finish the corners of those strokes, etc. will be pretty difficult.

Shortcutting those crucial parts of the learning process will increase your frustration and test your patience about the end results of your efforts.

There are some good resources here: Sign Painting books

The Mike Stevens book Mastering Layout is a must buy. It won't help in the very beginning of learning how to pull smooth, consistent vertical, horizontal, angled, circular, curved strokes, but its a great resource for how to design better looking signs no matter how you produce them. The only real way one becomes proficient at hand lettering beyond "dabbling and dabbing" is more hours of practice than most are prepared to invest.

The next part will be the most important lesson you can ever learn for hand lettering.

Get yourself set up with a good work table, easel, etc. with an adjustable tilt if possible and a smooth edge along the bottom. After that, get a roll of white butcher paper, some yardsticks, One Shot Poster Color-Black, turpentine, a couple of GREY squirrel hair quills, liners and flats and a mahl stick. Water based paint on uncoated paper will pucker when lettered on and not provide the right drag which keeps your brush in its chiselled shape as you pull a stroke. To practice your letter strokes, tape a long piece of the butcher paper on the table, then make some marks about 2-3" apart down the entire height of the sheet on one end of the paper with a pencil. Starting at the bottom while holding the yardstick/ruler in one hand with the flat part of your index finger pushed against the bottom edge of the work bench, the other hand holds a pencil flat against the top of the ruler and paper at one of your marks. Now starting pulling your hands across the workbench as evenly as you can while drawing a parallel line across the entire length of the sheet. Repeat this until you have all your lines drawn. Take a #2 pencil and a triangle and start drawing single vertical lines spaced a few inches apart the same height as your lines are spaced across the entire sheet. The next two lines down, draw a series of horizontal lines, same spacing and length. Next line, 45 degree angled lines same routine. Next line, reverse the angle the other way. Next line, draw a the left half of a circle, then the right half, etc.... Fill up the whole sheet trying to draw the lines as evenly and as straight or consistently curved as possible with equal spacing between them.

Now mix up some of the poster color into a doubled up, unwaxed Dixie cup or small container that you can comfortably hold in your opposite hand than you will letter with. Make the paint pretty thin, but not too thin so that it runs. It takes practice getting it just right. Make a circle with your thumb for the paint cup to sit in. Between your index finger and middle finger slide a piece of postcard or index card to "palette" your brush with. Between your middle finger and ring finger, the end of your mahl stick rests. A dowel rod about 3' long will do and make a small ball of tape around the end that will rest against your work surface. Lightly hold your lettering brush between your thumb and index finger just behind the ferrule. As you gain proficiency you will be able to spin it smoothly and predictably. Dip the tip of the brush into the paint without going so far as to get paint on the ferrule. Only the hairs should get paint on them. Now smooth the brush back and forth on the index card until you see a nice sharp, chiselled edge. Go to your paper and starting at one end of one line, place the tip of the mahl stick a comfortable distance ahead of where you are stroking with your lettering hand midway on the shaft and the shaft parallel to your line of strokes. Starting above the top line, psuh your chiselled brush against the paper and pull the mahl stick down with your other hand as you try to pull as smooth and even thickness line along the pencil line. Don't worry about anything but developing a feel for what you are doing.

Do a much as you can and keep your work in front of you at eye level. After so many of these sheets, you'll start seeing improvement and then you can start drawing letters instead of just the strokes that make up letters. Then you can play around with words, different typefaces, etc. Work on a bold block typeface, a roman seriffed, and eventually a script. don't go overboard with trying to do too much until you gain some competence and confidence.

With only 39 years of hand lettering experience under my belt coming from one of the best, most intensive, trade school and union shop work/learn experiences, I've seen plenty of dabblers and shortcutters over the years and they nearly all ended up eventually giving up and doing something else. I've also seen plenty of determined folks with very little "artistic" talent stick to it and become very good sign craftspeople. I still love to letter and do so even just for fun.

A bunch of us have a group on Facebook named the Sign Painting Support Group Alternative (long story on the title and history on the group). Most people share photos of jobs, offer advice, build friendships, ask questions, get advice, joke around, etc. and nobody attacks or insults anybody.
 

DerbyCitySignGuy

New Member
In the "you can't run until you learn how to crawl" department, learning how to "dabble" in hand lettering first if you don't also gain experience in or already possess some knowledge of letter construction, good layout, how to draw letters, pull smooth strokes with a lettering brush, sharply and squarely finish the corners of those strokes, etc. will be pretty difficult.

Shortcutting those crucial parts of the learning process will increase your frustration and test your patience about the end results of your efforts.

There are some good resources here: Sign Painting books

The Mike Stevens book Mastering Layout is a must buy. It won't help in the very beginning of learning how to pull smooth, consistent vertical, horizontal, angled, circular, curved strokes, but its a great resource for how to design better looking signs no matter how you produce them. The only real way one becomes proficient at hand lettering beyond "dabbling and dabbing" is more hours of practice than most are prepared to invest.

The next part will be the most important lesson you can ever learn for hand lettering.

Get yourself set up with a good work table, easel, etc. with an adjustable tilt if possible and a smooth edge along the bottom. After that, get a roll of white butcher paper, some yardsticks, One Shot Poster Color-Black, turpentine, a couple of GREY squirrel hair quills, liners and flats and a mahl stick. Water based paint on uncoated paper will pucker when lettered on and not provide the right drag which keeps your brush in its chiselled shape as you pull a stroke. To practice your letter strokes, tape a long piece of the butcher paper on the table, then make some marks about 2-3" apart down the entire height of the sheet on one end of the paper with a pencil. Starting at the bottom while holding the yardstick/ruler in one hand with the flat part of your index finger pushed against the bottom edge of the work bench, the other hand holds a pencil flat against the top of the ruler and paper at one of your marks. Now starting pulling your hands across the workbench as evenly as you can while drawing a parallel line across the entire length of the sheet. Repeat this until you have all your lines drawn. Take a #2 pencil and a triangle and start drawing single vertical lines spaced a few inches apart the same height as your lines are spaced across the entire sheet. The next two lines down, draw a series of horizontal lines, same spacing and length. Next line, 45 degree angled lines same routine. Next line, reverse the angle the other way. Next line, draw a the left half of a circle, then the right half, etc.... Fill up the whole sheet trying to draw the lines as evenly and as straight or consistently curved as possible with equal spacing between them.

Now mix up some of the poster color into a doubled up, unwaxed Dixie cup or small container that you can comfortably hold in your opposite hand than you will letter with. Make the paint pretty thin, but not too thin so that it runs. It takes practice getting it just right. Make a circle with your thumb for the paint cup to sit in. Between your index finger and middle finger slide a piece of postcard or index card to "palette" your brush with. Between your middle finger and ring finger, the end of your mahl stick rests. A dowel rod about 3' long will do and make a small ball of tape around the end that will rest against your work surface. Lightly hold your lettering brush between your thumb and index finger just behind the ferrule. As you gain proficiency you will be able to spin it smoothly and predictably. Dip the tip of the brush into the paint without going so far as to get paint on the ferrule. Only the hairs should get paint on them. Now smooth the brush back and forth on the index card until you see a nice sharp, chiselled edge. Go to your paper and starting at one end of one line, place the tip of the mahl stick a comfortable distance ahead of where you are stroking with your lettering hand midway on the shaft and the shaft parallel to your line of strokes. Starting above the top line, psuh your chiselled brush against the paper and pull the mahl stick down with your other hand as you try to pull as smooth and even thickness line along the pencil line. Don't worry about anything but developing a feel for what you are doing.

Do a much as you can and keep your work in front of you at eye level. After so many of these sheets, you'll start seeing improvement and then you can start drawing letters instead of just the strokes that make up letters. Then you can play around with words, different typefaces, etc. Work on a bold block typeface, a roman seriffed, and eventually a script. don't go overboard with trying to do too much until you gain some competence and confidence.

With only 39 years of hand lettering experience under my belt coming from one of the best, most intensive, trade school and union shop work/learn experiences, I've seen plenty of dabblers and shortcutters over the years and they nearly all ended up eventually giving up and doing something else. I've also seen plenty of determined folks with very little "artistic" talent stick to it and become very good sign craftspeople. I still love to letter and do so even just for fun.

A bunch of us have a group on Facebook named the Sign Painting Support Group Alternative (long story on the title and history on the group). Most people share photos of jobs, offer advice, build friendships, ask questions, get advice, joke around, etc. and nobody attacks or insults anybody.

Thanks, Tim.

I have some experience with lettering from calligraphy classes (years ago, but experience nonetheless) as well as Japanese and Chinese language classes during college (which involves hand writing characters with brushes). Not quite the same thing, but I do have at least some experience in hand lettering. My wife is an artist in several different mediums, so we've got plenty of worktables and materials. I'm sure she has some of the stuff. I doubt she has the right brushes, but it never hurts to check! I also have experience painting. This is going to sound terribly nerdy (because it is), but I've been into tabletop wargaming since I was a kid, so I have nearly 30 years of experience painting 25mm figurines. I'm not coming into this totally fresh, but I'm definitely still in square one, even if I'm not starting there.

Thanks for all of the advice. Just for the record, this is strictly for personal experience/pleasure. I have no intention (at this time) of actually doing this for anything other than myself.
 

GaSouthpaw

Profane and profane accessories.
There are also some great sign writing resources from the national archives. Old books you can download. One from E.C. Matthews is great. There are many others and full of illustration! Just search archive.org
There are actually some great "classic" books about lettering, too- available as PDFs that I downloaded to my Kindle. Pretty cool stuff, and plenty informative.
 

TimToad

Active Member
Thanks, Tim.

I have some experience with lettering from calligraphy classes (years ago, but experience nonetheless) as well as Japanese and Chinese language classes during college (which involves hand writing characters with brushes). Not quite the same thing, but I do have at least some experience in hand lettering. My wife is an artist in several different mediums, so we've got plenty of worktables and materials. I'm sure she has some of the stuff. I doubt she has the right brushes, but it never hurts to check! I also have experience painting. This is going to sound terribly nerdy (because it is), but I've been into tabletop wargaming since I was a kid, so I have nearly 30 years of experience painting 25mm figurines. I'm not coming into this totally fresh, but I'm definitely still in square one, even if I'm not starting there.

Thanks for all of the advice. Just for the record, this is strictly for personal experience/pleasure. I have no intention (at this time) of actually doing this for anything other than myself.

You are quite welcome and glad to see another person take up the brush, regardless of your motives. You may enjoy it so much that you'll add it to what you can offer customers. I'd say your experience will only help you adapt and quickly get a handle on the basic strokes and process. As you shop for brushes try to remember that Grey hair is for smooth to semi-smooth surfaces that have a little "tooth" to them. The Red hair brushes are for really smooth, slick surfaces like acrylic, glass, super glossy painted surfaces, etc. Pig bristle hair as in fitches and cutters are for cutting in larger letters and backgrounds.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Basically what you learned in calligraphy class is exactly what you'll be applying substituting your pen, speedball or whatever you used with a brush of your choosing. A little more twirling of the handle will take place and keep the paint in the belly and tip of the brush. As the heel builds up, squeeze it between your fingers (use a cloth if you like) and start palletting again.
 
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