• I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...

Have yet to figure it out ~!@#$%^&*(

Replicator

Replicator

New Member
I have a Roland VP-540 and use versaworks.

Pulled a print off the printer over an hour ago and in the last 5 minutes set a piece of masked vinyl on top of it and it pulled the ink off as it were still bloody wet.....

It's pissing me off that I can't figure this crap out with this machine that I have had for 5 years now.

I use manufacturer media profiles that are supposedly correct for the media and machine I am running and I am at my wits end with this Roland.

DAMN . . . I should have got a Mutoh :banghead:
 
sfr table hockey

sfr table hockey

New Member
Is this a new roll of media that you are just trying?

What was still wet, like a black text area or printed image, or was the whole thing wet?

If a new roll make sure it was not mixed up with a non printable media. There are some media that won't take solvent.
 
Replicator

Replicator

New Member
It's just your basic solvent poster paper, matte finish.

So far the best profile seems to be the RIP, GPPM Matte Photo Paper.

But yes SFR . . . The whole thing was tacky at least 40 minutes after printing !
 
Gino

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Do you have good air movement in your place ??

In other words, most solvents evaporate when air passes over..... such as from a good steady breeze, like from a fan. If the humidity is high or even moderate.... the solvents won't dry/cure for a long time. We have two large exhaust fans going almost daily, unless it's raining and we have many ceiling fans going throughout the entire shop.

Air flow is the key in any drying of anything.
 
sfr table hockey

sfr table hockey

New Member
I ran a huge amount of poster paper (gloss photo paper) from Big Fish and had one minor issue early on. I for the first time switched to Rolands Eco Sol Max inks for my converted CJ. I have always run 3rd party inks and made my own profiles. I thought that with the switch all the profile thing would be no longer an issue.

The first run I did, I used the Roland profile, and it looked good and thought it was all ok. As it rolled on my takeup the black ink (only in two areas) was a bit tacky and later when taken off the reel, the black pulled off on some.

What I found was the profile printed the black very heavy and was more than needed to get a good black. I made a profile with ink limits and from then on the prints dried before the reel.

Sorry to run on but first off Big Fish's gloss paper is great to print on and very good for scratch resistance. I would recomend with the Rolands inks. Next I had tried other gloss photo paper and one (for the waterbased) did not let the ink set on the solvent. Others can work on both printers but you may have one that is not for solvent.

Had you printed on it before and had it work?

If so it may be a profile putting too much ink down.
 
Last edited:
Replicator

Replicator

New Member
Gino said:
Do you have good air movement in your place ??
Click to expand...

A/C going constantly, as well as a large fan in window area . . .

sfr table hockey said:
I would recommend with the Rolands inks.
Click to expand...

SFR, great advice about limiting ink, I will try that and see what happens. I do use Roland Eco-Sol Max Inks . . .

CalamityJay said:
solvent and paper just doesn't sound good though.

try using a pigment / aqueous printer.
Click to expand...

CJ, I only have a Solvent printer and the paper I use is Solvent coated paper designed for my printer . . .
 
J

jaycrowe

New Member
We do a ton of posters. I have tried a ton of diffrent materials and settings. The best we have found is to cut after a pair so as to be easier to handle. Then lay flat on the table 3 pairs wide when the next comes out rotate them one on top of the other. Next day they are ready to be trimmed and sent. We do have a drying unit on our xc so it does help. Not sure if this helps you but works for us.
 
Gino

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Hey Rep.... why don't you call Bigfish out your way and see what media he has that will work for you ?? He might even have a lead on a good profile for you.
 
anotherdog

anotherdog

New Member
I too have a VP540, 5 years old, versaworks.
With poster paper I usually leave the prints either loosely rolled or draped over a drying rack overnight. of all things paper is the longest curing, especially when I'm going to lam.

However if your are still "wet" either your profile is dropping way too much ink, your heater is busted or you have a batch of bad ink (happens with 3rd party).

is this happening on other media/profiles? if not it's probably the paper.
See if it still happens with an adhesive profile on the paper.

if the print looks good, but is tacky you may just have to let it sit overnight.

It's not the printer, you would have the same issue with a Mutoh too.
 
W

WCSign

New Member
whats the heat settings in the profile?? also I agree on the ink limits

I have my heater lower on banner material (so it doesnt buckle) and have to make sure that it doesnt flop on itself, or it will stick.. black is the worst... having a floor fan blowing towards the print helps a ton
 
Wiggum PI

Wiggum PI

New Member
Paper and polyprop were about the only 2 products I could never put on the take up reel due to not drying, unless I really slowed the head speed down. So unless I'm missing something, 1 hour is nowhere near enough outgas time(we used to leave em at least overnight).
But defo look into your ink limits too.

Chris.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top